How often should you replace your tyres?

rclarke2
rclarke2 Posts: 19
edited September 2010 in Commuting general
I have a hybrid MTB which I use for my commute and occasional weekend rides. It has a set of Michelin XC Road tyres which are now 3.5 years old and they have around 7000km on them.

There is nothing more than small nicks in the rubber although the rear one especially has a distinct flattened profile to it now.

Is there a 'best practice' when it comes to replacing tyres even if they have no significant damage?

Rob

2007 Price Street Speed
2011 Trek Madone 4.7

Comments

  • RufusA
    RufusA Posts: 500
    Not sure about best practice, but the puncture fairy usually tells me with frequent visits when it's time to replace my tyres.

    If there is no physical damage, the rubber hasn't visibly started to perish and there is sufficient grip; then they should be fine to keep using AS A REAR. However I wouldn't want to risk a heavily worn tyre on the front, as a front blowout at speed isn't going to be pretty. So when the rear is worn, REPLACE BOTH tyres.

    Many road tyres will start to show a hint of canvas colour through the rubber when they are done and need replacing, but the PF tends become a constant companion well before then.

    Also as a rule of thumb tyres over six years old should be consigned to the bin!

    Rufus.
  • tgotb
    tgotb Posts: 4,714
    RufusA wrote:
    So when the rear is worn, REPLACE BOTH tyres.
    My experience is that the rear experiences vastly more wear than the front; my rear is significantly squared-off after ~3000 miles, whilst the front (same mileage) still shows traces of the moulding bead.

    I'd suggest that when the PF starts visiting regularly, when the canvas starts showing, or when you start getting grip issues (whichever happens first) you rotate the front onto the rear and put a brand new tyre on the front...
    Pannier, 120rpm.
  • RufusA
    RufusA Posts: 500
    TGOTB wrote:
    .... you rotate the front onto the rear and put a brand new tyre on the front...

    Cunning plan - I like the cut of your jib!

    Rufus.
  • cjcp
    cjcp Posts: 13,345
    If it's squared off, it's time for a new tyre. You might not have as much grip, even if you don't receive visits from the PF.
    FCN 2-4.

    "What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
    "It stays down, Daddy."
    "Exactly."
  • tgotb
    tgotb Posts: 4,714
    cjcp wrote:
    If it's squared off, it's time for a new tyre. You might not have as much grip, even if you don't receive visits from the PF.
    How so? Don't have to be banked over very much to be off the square bit and back on to fresh rubber.
    Rear tyre contributes little to braking anyway, and don't seem to be wheelspinning on acceleration (drain covers excepted)...
    Pannier, 120rpm.
  • gbsahne001
    gbsahne001 Posts: 1,973
    sily question alert..... how do you tell if it's squared off?
    Winter Hack
    Everyday Commuter
  • tgotb
    tgotb Posts: 4,714
    My front tyre is round, my back tyre now has rounded sides and a flat bottom. If you have it, it's obvious...
    Pannier, 120rpm.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    A tyre is worn out when your riding on tube bulging out the holes!

    Seriously though if there are no other issues, PF, grip etc then use it until you can see the reinforcing just starting to show.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • Harveytile
    Harveytile Posts: 227
    Just replaced mine after 3500 miles. Rear badly squared off, front cut to shreds. Two weeks and a few hundred miles and the blasted love affair with PF starts up again last night. :roll:

    +1 for the PF visits. When they become regular and frequent, change the rubber.
    .
    Beep Beep Richie.
    .

    FCN +7 (Hanzo Fixed. Simple - for the commute)
    FCN +10 (Loud and proud PA)
  • Blue Meanie
    Blue Meanie Posts: 495
    Hmm,
    cycle for long enough and you won't have any spare-tyres
    :D
    FCN16 - 1970 BSA Wayfarer

    FCN4 - Fixie Inc
  • cjcp
    cjcp Posts: 13,345
    TGOTB wrote:
    cjcp wrote:
    If it's squared off, it's time for a new tyre. You might not have as much grip, even if you don't receive visits from the PF.
    How so? Don't have to be banked over very much to be off the square bit and back on to fresh rubber.
    Rear tyre contributes little to braking anyway, and don't seem to be wheelspinning on acceleration (drain covers excepted)...

    If it's squared off, isn't there less rubber on the road?

    I've always compared it to a tyre I use on the turbo - it gets worn, squared off, shiny and just doesn't look good for use on the road.
    FCN 2-4.

    "What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
    "It stays down, Daddy."
    "Exactly."
  • tgotb
    tgotb Posts: 4,714
    cjcp wrote:
    If it's squared off, isn't there less rubber on the road?
    I don't think so...

    When travelling in a straight line there's actually more rubber on the road (though I don't think there's any great advantage to that).
    Banked over in a tight turn (when it really matters) it's pretty much equivalent to a new tyre.
    The only real difference would when turning/banking gently; under those circumstances there's plenty of grip to spare anyway...

    Anyway, if the amount of rubber on the road really mattered, wouldn't we have wider tyres for crits and similar?
    Pannier, 120rpm.
  • schweiz
    schweiz Posts: 1,644
    ride 'em till the canvas starts to show.

    I've only binned tyres with less wear because of:

    1 tyre was really slippy in the wet (specialized)
    1 tyre had a big cut all the way through the canvas which could not be safely repaired (vittoria)
    2 tyres had perished tyre walls after 10+ years (specialized fat boy slicks)
    VN BMC Cube SS
    http://app.strava.com/athletes/30000
  • rclarke2
    rclarke2 Posts: 19
    Loads of good advice, as always.

    Thankyou.

    2007 Price Street Speed
    2011 Trek Madone 4.7
  • cjcp
    cjcp Posts: 13,345
    TGOTB wrote:
    cjcp wrote:
    If it's squared off, isn't there less rubber on the road?
    I don't think so...

    When travelling in a straight line there's actually more rubber on the road (though I don't think there's any great advantage to that).
    Banked over in a tight turn (when it really matters) it's pretty much equivalent to a new tyre.
    The only real difference would when turning/banking gently; under those circumstances there's plenty of grip to spare anyway...

    Anyway, if the amount of rubber on the road really mattered, wouldn't we have wider tyres for crits and similar?

    Fair point. What if it's shiny though? My Gatorskins got shiny when they were worn (same with my Krylions), and I wasn't convinced that the ability of that rubber to stick to the road was as good as a newer tyre.
    FCN 2-4.

    "What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
    "It stays down, Daddy."
    "Exactly."
  • tgotb
    tgotb Posts: 4,714
    cjcp wrote:
    What if it's shiny though? My Gatorskins got shiny when they were worn (same with my Krylions), and I wasn't convinced that the ability of that rubber to stick to the road was as good as a newer tyre.
    My old Gatorskins were never that grippy in the wet, and by the time they'd done a couple of thousand miles they were rather alarming. Come to think of it, they did get quite shiny; that's evidently the thing to look for.

    My 4000s tyres are actually *less* shiny than when they were new, and seem to be as grippy as ever. I'm not sure they're as resistant to cuts and sidewall damage though, will need to wait until Winter for a fair comparison...
    Pannier, 120rpm.
  • AndyOgy
    AndyOgy Posts: 579
    This is one of those occasions where we get to relish being cyclists. If you have covered thousands of miles on a bike, think of what you've saved on fuel, insurance, car tyre wear etc.

    I love the feeling of fresh rubber on any of my bikes and you can get 2 new high quality tyres for less than the cost of one tank of fuel these days.

    Ergo, the best time to replace tyres would be when Wiggle/Chain Reaction/Merlin happen to have a good offer on the tyres that you like.
  • MrChuck
    MrChuck Posts: 1,663
    The front tyre that came on my commuter lasted about 5 years. It was pretty squared pff and the tread on the centre was a mess of nicks and splits, but I didn't see a reason to change it till I actually started getting punctures more frequently.

    But I reckon a lot depends on your circumstances. On that bike I'm rarely out of town, the nature of my job means it doesn't really matter if I'm late, and probably the worst case scenario is that I have to walk a couple of miles. Otherwise I'd probably take a much more conservative approach.
  • rclarke2
    rclarke2 Posts: 19
    AndyOgy wrote:
    This is one of those occasions where we get to relish being cyclists. If you have covered thousands of miles on a bike, think of what you've saved on fuel, insurance, car tyre wear etc.

    I love the feeling of fresh rubber on any of my bikes and you can get 2 new high quality tyres for less than the cost of one tank of fuel these days.

    Ergo, the best time to replace tyres would be when Wiggle/Chain Reaction/Merlin happen to have a good offer on the tyres that you like.

    AndyOgy, top marks for clarity of thought. Time to look on Wiggle....

    2007 Price Street Speed
    2011 Trek Madone 4.7
  • cjcp
    cjcp Posts: 13,345
    AndyOgy wrote:
    and you can get 2 new high quality tyres for less than the cost of one tank of fuel these days.

    An excellent way of looking at things. :D
    FCN 2-4.

    "What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
    "It stays down, Daddy."
    "Exactly."
  • cjcp
    cjcp Posts: 13,345
    TGOTB wrote:
    cjcp wrote:
    What if it's shiny though? My Gatorskins got shiny when they were worn (same with my Krylions), and I wasn't convinced that the ability of that rubber to stick to the road was as good as a newer tyre.
    My old Gatorskins were never that grippy in the wet, and by the time they'd done a couple of thousand miles they were rather alarming. Come to think of it, they did get quite shiny; that's evidently the thing to look for.

    My 4000s tyres are actually *less* shiny than when they were new, and seem to be as grippy as ever. I'm not sure they're as resistant to cuts and sidewall damage though, will need to wait until Winter for a fair comparison...

    We must be living in opposite universes, as some sort of human guinea pigs for the Tyre Gods: I've had more sidewall damage on the Gatorskins (25mm; 23mms weren't as bad) than my 4000Ses.

    On the subject of cuts, I've found the Durano Pluses much more resistant than any Conti I've had. They're heavier, but I can't say I've noticed any difference in performance.
    FCN 2-4.

    "What happens when the hammer goes down, kids?"
    "It stays down, Daddy."
    "Exactly."
  • Initialised
    Initialised Posts: 3,047
    I waited until my Huthinsons got 'slick' and bad sidewall wear before replacing them. I'd call that bad practice. Fresh tyres feel good and make you faster.
    I used to just ride my bike to work but now I find myself going out looking for bigger and bigger hills.

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