Lubricant on the seatpost?

wilshawk
wilshawk Posts: 119
edited September 2010 in Road beginners
Putting a new seatpost in, reckon I should smear a bit around the base of the seatpost where it slots in to the frame? or is it not neccessary or a bad idea ? Thanks.

Comments

  • pneumatic
    pneumatic Posts: 1,989
    Definitely a good idea: counter-intuitively, this is a very good way to stop the post from slipping.


    Fast and Bulbous
    Peregrinations
    Eddingtons: 80 (Metric); 60 (Imperial)

  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    Grease it up. A siezed seatpost is no fun at all as has been mentioned many times on this forum. Any old grease will do.
  • dmch2
    dmch2 Posts: 731
    You can see all the issues with my hybrid's seized post on the workshop forum if you like...

    I double checked on my new road bike and the shop hadn't greased it. I did so straight away.
    2010 Trek 1.5 Road - swissstop green, conti GP4000S
    2004 Marin Muirwoods Hybrid
  • t. I did so straight away.

    You mean you didn't make a cup of tea first? I doubt it would have seized in between your brew. :wink:
    Say... That's a nice bike..
    Trax T700 with Lew Racing Pro VT-1 ;-)
  • use liquid graphite - grips under pressure, slips when not
  • dmch2
    dmch2 Posts: 731
    t. I did so straight away.

    You mean you didn't make a cup of tea first? I doubt it would have seized in between your brew. :wink:

    aha! I've just discovered the 'quote' button rather than doing it by hand!

    I'd just come home from getting the bike - I wanted to get on it soon as possible! Plenty of time for tea once it's gone dark. Although I must make a cup now I think :)
    2010 Trek 1.5 Road - swissstop green, conti GP4000S
    2004 Marin Muirwoods Hybrid
  • ChrisSA
    ChrisSA Posts: 455
    Copper grease.
  • okay I did put some grease on the post, also I cleaned a bit down the hole, got some old grime out, this may not have been wise, now everything is so slick and clean...the seat post seems to slide all too easily. After battlign with the allen key for a while I got it as tight as I could, but it still slips down when I sit on it (or just push it with hand), now what can I do to make it stay put? a bit of talc perhaps? any ideas?
  • dmch2
    dmch2 Posts: 731
    How much grease did you use? It only needs a smear (so the post should show through it)
    2010 Trek 1.5 Road - swissstop green, conti GP4000S
    2004 Marin Muirwoods Hybrid
  • anto164
    anto164 Posts: 3,500
    lube the shaft before sliding it in.

    It'll leave any excess lube at the entrance because of the tightness of it.
  • I put on quite a bit at first, although after I wiped of as much as I could and it still slipped.
  • simon_e
    simon_e Posts: 1,707
    Standard Lithium (white) grease such as Weldtite is ideal.
    weldt.jpg

    I have read that you should not use grease for carbon components - use Carbon Assembly paste instead.
    Aspire not to have more, but to be more.
  • pneumatic
    pneumatic Posts: 1,989
    ok,silly question, but I've been there myself:

    New seatpost - are you sure it is the right size? These things are measured in nanometres (well, not quite, but you can't do it without calipers) and it is easy to get it wrong.

    Just a thought. :wink:


    Fast and Bulbous
    Peregrinations
    Eddingtons: 80 (Metric); 60 (Imperial)

  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    If it's a carbon post, you're better off using carbon assembly paste. Really grips the thing securely and you don't have to swing too hard on the allen key.
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    Yes nobodys asked what materials you have there ?

    In my carbon frame with a carbon seatpost I use hairspray to get it to stick. Before I used that - the thing would slide. After that - no problems.
  • I tend to use assmbly paste even on alloy posts as it means you need a far lower clamping force, which is nice!
  • dmch2
    dmch2 Posts: 731
    I was going to ask why some say copper grease and some say lithium grease (I have both and used the latter). now I see carbon specific grease mentioned. My post is carbon but the frame is ali and it seems clamped up quite happily so should I just leave it?
    2010 Trek 1.5 Road - swissstop green, conti GP4000S
    2004 Marin Muirwoods Hybrid
  • dennisn
    dennisn Posts: 10,601
    Simon E wrote:

    I have read that you should not use grease for carbon components - use Carbon Assembly paste instead.

    I think that is more of an effort to sell you someting "special" as opposed to actual fact.
    You've GOT to have a torque wrench, GOT to use a SPECIAL paste, type of thing.
    I used plain grease on my carbon seatpost for 3 years. No problems.
  • I use this on my carbon seatposts, seems to work quite well, allegedly increase friction between the post and frame as well as preventing seizing

    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=26768

    £1.25 for sign up http://www.quidco.com/user/491172/42301

    Cashback on wiggle,CRC,evans follow the link
    http://www.topcashback.co.uk/ref/MTBkarl
  • daviesee
    daviesee Posts: 6,386
    anto164 wrote:
    lube the shaft before sliding it in.

    It'll leave any excess lube at the entrance because of the tightness of it.

    The above may very well be true............

    but it reads wrong :wink:

    Probably just me though :oops:
    None of the above should be taken seriously, and certainly not personally.
  • daviesee wrote:
    anto164 wrote:
    lube the shaft before sliding it in.

    It'll leave any excess lube at the entrance because of the tightness of it.

    The above may very well be true............

    but it reads wrong :wink:

    Probably just me though :oops:

    not just you

    *stiffens*
    'dont forget lads, one evertonian is worth twenty kopites'
  • Does anyone actually bother using a torque wrench for carbon seatposts? Or am I OK tightening it like a normal metal one?
    Do not write below this line. Office use only.
  • ketsbaia
    ketsbaia Posts: 1,718
    Does anyone actually bother using a torque wrench for carbon seatposts? Or am I OK tightening it like a normal metal one?

    I haven't got a torque wrench - I just remember how many complete circles I've loosened the bolt, then tighten it the same amount. Highly technical stuff.
  • dodgy
    dodgy Posts: 2,890
    One of the few components I bother to use a torque wrench on. Definitely worth it in my opinion, I just use the cheap ritchey one which is preset at either 5 to 6nm.
  • ilm_zero7
    ilm_zero7 Posts: 2,213
    Does anyone actually bother using a torque wrench for carbon seatposts? Or am I OK tightening it like a normal metal one?
    yes use a torque wrench - everytime - correctly set of course, but stop before it clicks out, under tightened is better than cracked!
    http://veloviewer.com/SigImage.php?a=3370a&r=3&c=5&u=M&g=p&f=abcdefghij&z=a.png
    Wiliers: Cento Uno/Superleggera R and Zero 7. Bianchi Infinito CV and Oltre XR2
  • superstar also do a preset 5Nm torque tool aimed at seatposts and stems

    http://superstar.tibolts.co.uk/product_ ... cts_id=387

    £1.25 for sign up http://www.quidco.com/user/491172/42301

    Cashback on wiggle,CRC,evans follow the link
    http://www.topcashback.co.uk/ref/MTBkarl
  • Pross
    Pross Posts: 43,463
    anto164 wrote:
    lube the shaft before sliding it in.

    It'll leave any excess lube at the entrance because of the tightness of it.

    Please tell me that was a deliberate bit of Carry On as I can't believe anyone typed that accidently! :wink: