First time on SPD-SLs

dmch2

My first time on SPD-SLs and I didn't fall off so I guess that's a result!

I didn't get instructions with the pedals only with the shoes so I wanted to check I was adjusting and using them correctly. They're the entry level Shimano ones Evans had on the shelf R076 shoes and R540 pedals:
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/shimano/r540-spd-sl-road-pedals-ec006321 and http://www.evanscycles.com/products/shimano/r076-road-shoes-ec017595

There's an allen key hole on each pedal which will do about 5 or 6 turns with an indicator on the back that moves up.down a few mm.

I've got them about 1/3rd of the way from full loose to full tight which seems about right. I can twist out fairly easily (including when I tipped right when only my left foot was out!) and they don't seem to slide about when pedalling.

The things I'm wondering about are how smooth it should feel when coming out. It almost feels like it snaps out rather than a smooth twist.

Similarly going in, I get the toe in then step down which gives a sharp click.

Am I just unfairly comparing them with ski bindings? They give an expensive sounding/feeling clunk rather than sounding like a bit of cheap plastic just snapped.

And finally, how do you set off when on an uphill slope? Is it a case of clip one foot in, then pedal with that (pulling on the up part of the stroke) and hope you can get the other foot in before getting knackered?

sungod

i use different ones, so can't help with the spd-sl specifics

on a slope...

right foot clipped in ready for first downstroke, push off, get the other foot clipped in as you start the downstroke on the left

using a low gear helps, it's easier to keep going if you miss clipping in the firs time

just takes a bit of practice

dmch2

No way can I get clipped in in only half a stroke! Lots of practice needed - which is handy as I bought the bike to ride it

father_jack

Sometimes I can, but wouldn't trust doing it everytime, especially if cars are to the side. Perhaps put your hand on something like a post, clip in and away you go?

anto164

if i'm somewhere where i've clipped out at a junction, and theres nothing to hold onto, i pedal with one foot for two pedal strokes, and if i havent clipped my foot in by that time, i rest my unclipped foot on the pedal, put a few pedal strokes in to get my speed up, then try clipping in again. It's a lot easier to stay in a straight line, therefore safer, when going faster. instead of wobbling all over the place trying to clip in.

Peddle Up!

+1 to the above. Sometimes it connects cleanly, but sometimes I'm jabbing away for what seems like ages.

dmch2

Sounds like everyone has issues sometimes, i've set them up about right and i just need practice.

Thanks

Constant headwind

I was going to ask this on a new thread but this one will do.

What, if any, is the advantage of SPD-SLs over SPDs?

sungod

spd-sl are road bike oriented - much more stable platform than spd, compatible with road shoes, lighter than spd

spd are mountain bike oriented - easier to clip in/out, still work when muddy/dirty, compatible with mtb shoes which are typically easier to walk in than road shoes

dmch2

I chose SPD-SLs as I wasn't planning on walking far in them which seemed to be the only SPD advantage.

Some complain that SPDs get uncomfortable as the pedal is much smaller so doesn't support your foot so well.

Whilst it's obviously more effort than with BMX pedals I don't find unclipping an issue at all. And clipping in is only an issue on an uphill slope. the moral? Don't stop on hills!

MrChuck

To answer one of the OP's questions, I have Shimano SPD-SL-s and there is indeed a fairly brisk-sounding snap as they release and engage, although I can't compare them to ski bindings I'm afraid! Doesn't sound like anything's actually breaking though...

As for the advantages of SPD-SLs over regular SPDs, I'd venture to say that unless you are a pro then most of the advantages listed above are pretty academic, although it does of course depend exactly what you're comparing them to- most road-specific shoes are pretty stiff while MTB style ones can be more flexible. On the other hand, the only real disadvantages (can't really walk in them, clipping in can be a PITA) aren't really a big deal if you're doing a 'proper' road riding, just ebcause you don't really stop! But if I was commuting on my road bike I'd probably switch to regular SPDs.

I might think differently if I did a 100 miler in regular SPDs but I have done a few 100kms on my MTB and they've been alright.

kingrollo

Couple of tips

1. Don't think riding - is practice for clicking in. On a ride you may not unclip at all - or just 2 or 3 times. Not much actual practice. I struggled until most nights I went out and just practiced starting and clicking in - I moved steeper up the incline as I got more confident. about a week of doing this and I was much happier.

2.Make sure the foot you are pushing off with, is as close to 12 o clock position as you can get. This gives you more time to click on.

Hope this helps.

chriscl

I have the same pedals, but with Mavic shoes.

There is a noticeable 'click' when engaging, but they don't feel like a ski binding to me (a ski binding feels more "solid" but that's probably as there's a bit more contact area).

As posters above mention; technique for starting off from a standstill; left foot unclipped, right foot at 12 O'clock or thereabouts, and try and make sure the left pedal is the right way up (those pedals are weighted more at the back, so will hang downwards which means you need to practice sometimes flipping the pedal with your left foot prior to clipping in (it isn't as hard as it sounds!)

Good pedals though, and I'll give you another tip - when maintaining your bike, I've found a quick squirt of WD40 in to the mechanism keeps them nice and clean and working well (it/s surprising how much muck gets in there!)

dmch2

That's a good point, I only unclipped three times in 13 miles. Once wasn't necessary, once was when I turned round (didn't have time to do a proper loop) and the only necessary time was the aforementioned an uphill junction :shock:

WD40 tip sounds good.

I usually come home via a shallow hill in the estate, sounds like a bit of practice as I cool down would be a good idea.

simon_e

sungod wrote:

spd-sl are road bike oriented - much more stable platform than spd, compatible with road shoes, lighter than spd

Much more stable? Lighter? I'm not so sure.

R540: 330g
M520: 380g
A520: 330g

The SPD pedals work fine and are easier for walking in and out of the house, a cafe, time trial HQ or even hanging around at the roadside. I'm yet to be convinced that SPD-SL/Look style road shoes are significantly better. I've asked friends who have ridden both and they say there's very little to choose between them.

While the M520 double-sided SPD pedals do have a fairly small platform I'd suggest that's not a big deal. The A520 is a single-sided SPD pedal, which I prefer, though having ridden both the M520 and A520 with stiff soled cleated shoes and there's very little difference.

BTW some Specialized and Shimano road shoes have holes drilled for both cleat types.

The weights above are from the devil's own website

anto164

Comparing the spd to spdsl, i find that on my spds, i can 'feel' the pedal through the shoe, i'm using some MT49 shoes i think on the mountain bike, and your feet start to get uncomfortable after a couple of hours on the bike. Comparing it to the SPD-SL, my feet don't feel a 'pressure' at the ball of my foot where the cleat is, and is more comfy used spd-sl on 4 hr rides, and my feet felt fine at the end. The SPD-SLs are also more secure, i've lost a foot a couple of times out of the pedal when i had the spds on the road bike. Since i changed to spd-sls, i've had no suck problem.

dmch2

Every time i think i should change to plain SPDs someone persuades me back to SLs!

My shoes will take either so maybe i need to get some plain SPD cleats in case I borrow an SPD equipped bike.

StanwaySteve62

tried both and much prefer the "on bike"" feel of the SL, more direct, no numbing, just all round better (Spesh BG SL shoes Vs shimano RT road spd shoes)
Would now NEVER contemplate a long ride on SPDs

StanwaySteve62

PS I quite like the feeling of acheivement getting 'IN' in the top half of the downstroke

fenski

I have Look pedals on my main bike and SPD's on my winter hack. I don't think there's and signifcant difference when you're on the move - only when clipping in and out, and off the bike (obviously...)

As to the getting started advice. It's interesting that people have advised having the right foot clipped in and left unclipped. I do it the other way round, i.e. I have the left foot clipped in... Maybe that's beacuse I'm left footed. Are there any other southpaws out there?

anto164

i unclip my right foot too.. But i'm right footed when i play footy.

Then again, my left leg is stronger, it's always the one i push off to sprint with, but then again, it's my trailing leg.

odd,

the_mikey

I'm a leftie and clip in my left foot first, and I'm more inclined to unclip my right foot first when uncliipping when preparing to stop or expecting danger. I also use Look KeO pedals and cleats, so I can't really compare experiences otherwise.

sungod

Simon E wrote:

sungod wrote:

spd-sl are road bike oriented - much more stable platform than spd, compatible with road shoes, lighter than spd

Much more stable? Lighter? I'm not so sure.

R540: 330g
M520: 380g
A520: 330g

The SPD pedals work fine and are easier for walking in and out of the house, a cafe, time trial HQ or even hanging around at the roadside. I'm yet to be convinced that SPD-SL/Look style road shoes are significantly better. I've asked friends who have ridden both and they say there's very little to choose between them.

While the M520 double-sided SPD pedals do have a fairly small platform I'd suggest that's not a big deal. The A520 is a single-sided SPD pedal, which I prefer, though having ridden both the M520 and A520 with stiff soled cleated shoes and there's very little difference.

BTW some Specialized and Shimano road shoes have holes drilled for both cleat types.

The weights above are from the devil's own website

yes lighter, but it certainly depends on which model and how much dosh you lay out...

5700's - 325g
6700's - 310g
7810's - 280g
7900's - 251g

for me road pedals give a substantially more solid/stable platform than my spd ones (xt m770, in both cases that's with full carbon soles

father_jack

M520 and A520 with stiff soled cleated shoes and there's very little difference.

I thought you said benefit of SPD is you can walk with them? If your shoes are stiff soled that makes it harder. I have SPD with a bit of flex in the sole, because I walk in them. I can tell the difference between A520 and M520 easily. And when I switch over to the SPD-SL again far more stable and secure platform, to either type of A520/M520 SPD.

A520 for the tourer, SPD-SL for the roadie.

paulorg

In reply to the OP, first of all, well done for not falling off, look forward to slipping off the pedal as you try to engage the trailing leg at a junction . I run those shoes with 5700 pedals and to answer the questions, yes there is a sharp click as you engage so you're not breaking them and they do feel a bit funny when you disengage but you do get used to it.

Expect 'bambi on ice' when you try to walk at any pace in the shoes but like everything you get used to it, I'd liken it to walking on your tip toes thanks to the SL cleat, I've had mine a year now with no cleaning at all and they are still in good nick and can walk quite fast in them now, I obviously wouldn't try to run in them though, especially on vinyl flooring.

The best way I found to get used to the engageing/disengaging was to sit on the bike leant up against the wall in the kitchen and just practice clipping in and out until you get it, this way you get used to the correct set up of the pedal before you crash, I'm really good at it having spent an hour doing this, even so I still miss occasionally at junctions. I set off on a slight hill but unlike a lot of those on here I prefer to clip in my lead leg and set off at a 10 o'clock angle not 12, I find I get a better, more powerful push off, you can rest your trailing leg on the pedal without engaging and if you do it right you can pedal like this until you can clip in if you can't pedal with one leg, if you do it wrong you slip off.

kenniff

Hi
just purchaced my first pair of cycle shoes(shimano R086) and cleats,SPD SL Same as your pedals.
just being a bit carefull with the clipping in like yours.
I have adjusted it to the least ressistance(- setting)
It says in the instructions that the adjustments should be a click at a time as it obviousley a fine adjuster.
I have found my natural position of my right foot seems to touch the chain every so often,hope the cleats will help me rectify this.
Have you found you perform better with the shoes and clips.
I personaly think its a lot better as i can push and pull when i'm getting a bit of repetetive muscle ache.
good luck with the combo,i' sure weve made a good choice.
Get in touch if you cant download the instructions from a web site and ill try to send a photocopy on email.
cheers
ken

dmch2

paulorg wrote:

In reply to the OP, first of all, well done for not falling off, look forward to slipping off the pedal as you try to engage the trailing leg at a junction

Done that already! managed to stay on though. Glad it was 7:30am on a Sunday so no traffic!

paulorg wrote:

I run those shoes with 5700 pedals and to answer the questions, yes there is a sharp click as you engage so you're not breaking them and they do feel a bit funny when you disengage but you do get used to it.

Cool - just wanted to check that I was using them right. Thanks

paulorg wrote:

Expect 'bambi on ice' when you try to walk at any pace in the shoes but like everything you get used to it, I'd liken it to walking on your tip toes thanks to the SL cleat, I've had mine a year now with no cleaning at all and they are still in good nick and can walk quite fast in them now, I obviously wouldn't try to run in them though, especially on vinyl flooring.

Walking isn't as bad as I'd feared. But I'm probably comparing to ski boots!

paulorg wrote:

The best way I found to get used to the engageing/disengaging was to sit on the bike leant up against the wall in the kitchen and just practice clipping in and out until you get it, this way you get used to the correct set up of the pedal before you crash, I'm really good at it having spent an hour doing this, even so I still miss occasionally at junctions. I set off on a slight hill but unlike a lot of those on here I prefer to clip in my lead leg and set off at a 10 o'clock angle not 12, I find I get a better, more powerful push off, you can rest your trailing leg on the pedal without engaging and if you do it right you can pedal like this until you can clip in if you can't pedal with one leg, if you do it wrong you slip off.

I did a bit of practice but was too keen to ride it. sounds like something to do tonight when I'm babysitting whilst my wife is at work (she does shifts).

Thanks for all the advice and encouragement

dmch2

kenniff wrote:

Hi
just purchaced my first pair of cycle shoes(shimano R086) and cleats,SPD SL Same as your pedals.
just being a bit carefull with the clipping in like yours.
I have adjusted it to the least ressistance(- setting)
It says in the instructions that the adjustments should be a click at a time as it obviousley a fine adjuster.
I have found my natural position of my right foot seems to touch the chain every so often,hope the cleats will help me rectify this.
Have you found you perform better with the shoes and clips.
I personaly think its a lot better as i can push and pull when i'm getting a bit of repetetive muscle ache.
good luck with the combo,i' sure weve made a good choice.
Get in touch if you cant download the instructions from a web site and ill try to send a photocopy on email.
cheers
ken

Since someone pointed out how good the shimano site is I should actually go and look there...

http://bike.shimano.com/publish/content/global_cycle/en/us/index/products/pedals/road/product.-code-PD-R540-L.-type-.html

I found that full loose felt very slippy so I gave them a turn or two to tighten a bit and it seems to work. The instructions will no doubt tell me what I should have done!

I think they're better but I've only used them on my new bike (was on BMX pedals and a hybrid before). It certainly seemed to take less conscious effort to get more work into the bike but that could be because it fits better, is a better bike, is a road bike or the pedals. I didn't try any hills but I've heard you can get more power for short periods by pulling up as well as pushing down for a short term boost.

kenniff

http://cycle.shimano-eu.com/media/techd ... 651704.pdf

rodgers73

I'm on my second day commuting (22 mile one way, mainly country roads but some town centre traffic and about a dozen roundabouts) and I have some SPD-SLs waiting to be fitted to my bike.

At the moment I'm still using old fashioned pedals and toe clips, which I'm very happy with as I can still pedal ok setting off from a junction even if I cant get my foot back into the clip straight away. I'm sticking with them until I gain more town centre confidence!

dmch2

I decided to fit the SPD-SLs to the new bike immediately - the idea being that I'll always associate the two and not forget which pedals I've got on.

We'll find out in a few months which of us did it the right way round!