Single speed chain: how tight?

jonny_trousers

I recall, being told that you should keep a little slack in the chain of a single speed and was wondering if this is actually true.

Also, recommendations for chain tugs to suit a Pearson Touche?

Cheers

redvee

1/2" deflection on one run of the chain ie between chainset and sprocket. Chaintugs vary between person and bike, I'm running a pair of MKS 8mm on my Tricross suitably modded to fit the frame, ie chopped on side off.

_Brun_

I always go for as tight as possible without it binding.

Blue Meanie

I keep the top of my chain tight by maintaining pressure on the pedals

ex-pat scot

tight as poss without binding.
Chain will gradually stretch over time so keep an eye on it and adjust tension as required.

Slack chain tends to come off when bombing downhill.
Results in chain suck & jam against chainstay. And / or chain jam against spokes (= broken spoke(s)). And immediately -locked back wheel. And generally pain & road rash imminent

jonny_trousers

Blue Meanie wrote:

I keep the top of my chain tight by maintaining pressure on the pedals

Is it possible to always apply pressure?

Thanks for your thoughts guys.

Bacteria Man

I was told by a bike mechanic that excessive tension on the chain will cause unecessary wear on the drivetrain and bottom bracket. Of course it helps to know how much is considered excessive, but I think you develop a feel for chain tension. I just do mine 'hand tight' ie as tight as you can reasonably get it just by sitting on the ground astride the rear wheel, with my feet braced against the pedals and pulling the wheel back by hand. Many SS/fixie frames come with chain tensioning devices, but the inclination to overtighten using these is probably a cause of needless wear on many bikes. The 'by hand' method should result in a chain that has no visible sag when looking at the bike side-on.

Blue Meanie

Tighten the non-drive track nut and set 'chain-tension', centre wheel and tighten drive side. Allow for 1/2" deflection (up/down).

A 'Too-Tight" chain will overly stress rear hub and BB bearings, a 'Too-Loose' may come off and sounds horrible.

Next time you're riding with a fixed colleague, with a slack chain, watch their chain dance as they apply acceleration/decelaration or push squares instead of circles.

e999sam

Blue Meanie wrote:

Tighten the non-drive track nut and set 'chain-tension', centre wheel and tighten drive side.

I wouldn't do that you can bend your axle just get as much pressure as possible with your hand by pushing the wheel back at the chain stay bridge. once you have tightened the chain check for tight and loose spots if there are any undo and tighten it again midway between the tight and loose spot.

Canny Jock

I set it to have about 1cm of slack, as mentioned above. My chain must be rubbish because it needs tensioning every 2 weeks (160 miles), so going to try a KMC instead of the current (Taya?) one.