climbing on loose stones - how

t0pc4t

I don't mind a climb, wouldn't say I love them but I can do them on the road.

I'm alright off road until I hit loose gravel, as soon as I lose traction that's it, speed drops and I have to get off for fear of falling over.

Are there any general techniques for climbing on a loose surface that people can pass on?

I stay seated and try and keep my weight over the back but that's about all I can think of.

bails87

Keep in a low gear, spin smoothly and don't put down any surges of power, or the wheel will spin and you'll stall.

GhallTN6

I Agree,

it's all about momentum and cadence, try and get as much speed as you can prior to hitting the incline, changing down in gear just before the climb, then spin, I always sit down, but try and get weight over the front, although not too much as then the back wheel with lose traction.

find a hill, and just keep trying, the only way to refine is to practise.

Clinterous

Really depends on the severity of the gradient and length of climb,

Essentially, you need to find a delicate balance between weight distribution and gearing, Others mention 'low gear' and 'cadence' - I personally find that a high cadence i.e. low gear, results in spin out of the back wheel and weaving.

Experience and practise will help you find your own technique.

I usually use a higher gear, stay in the seat and focus on powering up. Whilst doing this you have to master the the ideal weight distribution position of keeping the weight over the back wheel, at the same time as getting your shoulders low to the handlebars to keep the front down - bending your elbows and keeping them close to your body. The position does feel un-natural, but with time your body will automatically get into to this position.

Spend some time at a local challenging short and loose incline doing some hill repeats.

neninja

I agree with Clinterous

I used to ride up loose stuff with high cadence and low gear but now use a higher gear and more power as this seems less inclined to make the rear break traction.

A tip for keeping the front down and controlled I was given by Ed Oxley is to keep your thumbs on the top of the grips on steep loose climbs - it really does work.

t0pc4t

many thanks all!

PXR5

Get quite a lot of this type of riding around here and i'd agree with all the above, its about trying to keep some sort of momentum and rhythm during the climb, changing tactic by deciding to mash the pedals half way up may not be the best idea, loosing speed/momentum is easier to compensate as you drop down gears, one tip i've always tried to recall is the idea of a really loose grip on the handlebars when climbing (and on the seat obviously), only maybe two fingers gripping, this stops you grabbing hold and pushing forward which will unweight the back wheel - well it works for me anyway....

Slamdunkin

I bounce my weight on the back wheel which helps dig the tyre tread in to gain grip

t0pc4t...what tyre pressure are you running on your back wheel?

Splottboy

Shifting your weight around helps, to get the "feel" of the terrain/trail.
Correct gears, tyre and technical ability/skills help.

The Drum climb, N.Wales and one in the Lakes are some I've cleared where others walked.

It's as much Mental as Physical, just don't give up!
I'm determined to BEAT the trail, and will fall off sideward, still clipped in, trying.

Two things God gave me as Natural Talents...To be able to draw/sketch well and climb loose, rocky, technical trails better than most riders I've ridden with in the past.
NOT boasting, just stating the facts.
( Maybe this is why all my crashes are on the descents?!)

t0pc4t

I'm about 13 1/2 stone and I run about 30spi in the michelins that came fitted as standard to my anthem x4.

generally I will have forks and shocks at about 50% of the preload, they are fox float 100RL and RP3 respectively.

although it's not really possible to be adjusting the shock preload much while on the move

Splottboy

Mtn Cycles San Andreas was a great climber, with Panaracer XC's.

Could get up a climb near the Marin, VERY steep, wet, loose slate, hairpin 1/2 way, rocky.
Most of the others walked/struggled, but the old SA just kept chugging away...

As long as you had the power, grip was amazing for a single-pivot "All Mtn" frame.

neninja

That's a lot of sag to be running on an Anthem X if I understand right that you are running 50% of your travel. I ride an Anthem X4 with the same for and a Fox RPL shock and generally run 25-30% front and 20-25% rear sag depending on where I'm riding.

In terms of the lack of grip on loose stuff I guess it's like starting off a car in snow or ice. If you try to drive in a low gear and high revs you'll wheel spin and go nowhere - the same as too high a cadence and low gear. Drive in a higher gear and low revs and you'll get traction - low cadence and higher gear.

GhallTN6

There are some good advice sites here.

http://www.mtbbritain.co.uk/way_steep_climbing.html
http://www.abc-of-mountainbiking.com/mountain-biking-techniques/climbing.asp
http://www.dynamicbicycles.com/articles/read/rider-tips-hill-climbing-techniques-how-to-make-mole-hills-out-of-mountains

phoenixliston

you don't want too much air in your tyres nd definately no sudden bursts of energy or movements. try and get a run up if you can for some momentum!

t0pc4t

thanks

not 50% sag, 50% on the fork and shock adjustment

nickthetrick

I agree with most of the advice here.

Always choose a good gear before hitting the steep stuff. A good gear is a personal thing, but I'd suggest the highest gear you think you can get away with. Try to use the middle front ring if you think you can as it will discourage use of micro gears.

If you find you're losing speed up the hill then you can either drop down a gear or get out of the saddle. In my experience it's best to stay in the higher gear and get out the saddle before reverting to a lower gear. When getting out the saddle be sure to do so smoothly and holding as much weight as possible on the back wheel, otherwise you can lose traction. Changing front gear ring is not recommended during the climb.

Eventually you may still need to lower the gear in which case you'll probably want to be sitting down again as you change gear. Good clean shifting is essential. If you remain standing it'll be much easier to slip.

Gradually as you go down through the gears (if required) you'll notice control gets much more erratic, and the back wheel feels more like it's gonna slip. The bottom gear on most mountain bikes is at the limit of usefullness, since you'll almost be slipping even when sitting down.

Finally, there's no substitute for fitness. Fitness during a climb will allow you to stay in the high gears for longer. The lower the gear the less control.

GhallTN6

It's a reall combination of loads of things, but this article sums it up ace, might even pick up some tips myself

http://www.imbikemag.com/issue7/

Shaggy_Dog

t0pc4t wrote:

I'm about 13 1/2 stone and I run about 30spi in the michelins that came fitted as standard to my anthem x4.

generally I will have forks and shocks at about 50% of the preload, they are fox float 100RL and RP3 respectively.

although it's not really possible to be adjusting the shock preload much while on the move

Do you mean rebound? the red one? Try this, wind the red knob all the way in then back it off by 2-4 clicks. When you compress the fork you should be able to snatch the wheel off the ground before the fork has extended, the same principal applies to the rear, but it's harder to do unless you have a helper to hold the front wheel straight!

You should be running 25-33% sag (when you sit on the bike, feet off the ground the fork and shock should sit into that percentage of their travel). Even if you set up the shock poorly you will still be able to ride most things but it will require more body English.

ride_whenever

carefully

t0pc4t

Shaggy_Dog wrote:

t0pc4t wrote:

I'm about 13 1/2 stone and I run about 30spi in the michelins that came fitted as standard to my anthem x4.

generally I will have forks and shocks at about 50% of the preload, they are fox float 100RL and RP3 respectively.

although it's not really possible to be adjusting the shock preload much while on the move

Do you mean rebound? the red one? Try this, wind the red knob all the way in then back it off by 2-4 clicks. When you compress the fork you should be able to snatch the wheel off the ground before the fork has extended, the same principal applies to the rear, but it's harder to do unless you have a helper to hold the front wheel straight!

You should be running 25-33% sag (when you sit on the bike, feet off the ground the fork and shock should sit into that percentage of their travel). Even if you set up the shock poorly you will still be able to ride most things but it will require more body English.

doh, yeah it was the rebound

practise this weekend helped, plus all the advice, thanks folks