freewheel removol tool dont fit.

tinytim

Hello,

I have just bought a removal tool for my freewheel cogs, It just managed to fit and remove a freewheel cog set on an old diamond back 90s MTB, I screwed on a brand new set, went to tighten them up but found the tool don't fit in the cog set, the tool is too big, freewheel cog sets were both shimano.

anybody know why this can be?

redvee

If they are a freewheel, screw on and not a cassette, slide on. There is no need to tighten them fully with the tool as the pedalling action will tighten the freewheel up, the first time you pedal the bike the pedals will turn approx 1/4 turn and nothing will happen.

Weejie54

Odd that it doesn't fit. The old freewheels (before Uniglide) had a smaller diameter splined socket. I think they were all five speed though.

keef66

I sort of had this! 7 year old mtb with a screw on 7 speed shimano freewheel. I ordered what was described as a "freewheel remover" from CRC, but what arrived was slightly too big to fit in the splines. However, It fitted splendidly in the splines of my road bike 105 cassette lockring . So what I had was a cassette lockring tool. Which was going to come in handy so I kept it.

I went to Halfords and got an actual freewheel remover which did fit the old and replacement Shimano screw on freewheels

Does your tool fit snugly in a road bike cassette lockring? (stop sniggering at the back!)

If so, I suggest you go looking for a freewheel remover which will be slightly smaller / thinner walled (take the current one with you to compare)

tinytim

Thank you for the replies.

The freewheel cogs that the tool fitted were the original ones, 15 year or so old MTB, but wont fit at all the new one's, so maybe that is what it is , a locking ring tool ! not freewheel remover
Yes that's what I going to do Keef66, I will take my new freewheel cog set with me and buy another tool, make certain it fits.

Weejie54

so maybe that is what it is , a locking ring tool ! not freewheel remover

The actual diameter is about the same for a Hyperglide freewheel and a hyperglide cassette. However, the splines aren't quite the same and the cassette tool is shorter.

tinytim

That little one is the one I have,

So Looks like I do not have the proper tool for the job, the chap at my lbs said this is the one I needed, has he grabbed it from the rack on the wall, So it's so much for him knowing what he's doing.
Thanks for posting the Pictures Weeji54, I get the proper one tomorrow

Weejie54

A big problem is that many people insist on calling a screw on freewheel a cassette. Back when cassettes were new on the scene, it was a cassette and the screw on type was a freewheel or a block. This should still be the correct terminology, to avoid confusion, but it doesn't seem to be so.

tinytim

Thanks Again everyone who replied with advice on this thread , been most helpful, I got the proper tool for the Job and all sorted now

I wasn't sure to start new thread or not asking for more advice, don't want to sound like keeping on and ware my welcome out

What I am doing is Rebuilding an early 90s MTB( Diamondback) and updating it abit at the same time, it will be used for charity Bike rides & also to get me back into cycling again.

More advice needed,

I have fitted a new triple crank and have found that the smallest sprocket is running Just 2mm away from the bottom stay , Is this too close? , I understand that the middle crank sprocket should be in line with the center of the rear cogs, I have measured the alignment, it is perfectly in line, also the smallest cog on the rear cog set is running very close to the stay.
Will this Be OK? all advice welcome.

Thanks

redvee

Have you put the new chainset on the original bottom bracket? The chainset might need a slightly longer BB. Another option is to put a small spacer between the BB and frame, more tools and struggle.

http://www.ukbikestore.co.uk/product/17 ... pacer.html
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=34981

tinytim

redvee,
I am not sure these spacers will work on a square tapered BBracket, as you tighten the crank upon to the Crank shaft, that it gets tighter more you do it up, if you put a spacer/washer behind, it wont be able to pull up and tighten, or am I getting it wrong,
Could you give me Idea how these spacers will work

2alexcoo

tinytim wrote:

Thanks Again everyone who replied with advice on this thread , been most helpful, I got the proper tool for the Job and all sorted now

I wasn't sure to start new thread or not asking for more advice, don't want to sound like keeping on and ware my welcome out

What I am doing is Rebuilding an early 90s MTB( Diamondback) and updating it abit at the same time, it will be used for charity Bike rides & also to get me back into cycling again.

More advice needed,

I have fitted a new triple crank and have found that the smallest sprocket is running Just 2mm away from the bottom stay , Is this too close? , I understand that the middle crank sprocket should be in line with the center of the rear cogs, I have measured the alignment, it is perfectly in line, also the smallest cog on the rear cog set is running very close to the stay.
Will this Be OK? all advice welcome.

Thanks

Most MTB cranks are designed for either a 47.5mm or 50mm chainline. This is the distance between the centre of the seat tube and the centre of the middle chainring.

To get this right you need to fit the correct length of bottom bracket for the crank. If you post what crank it is, someone may be able to tell you which bottom bracket you need.

redvee

tinytim wrote:

redvee,
I am not sure these spacers will work on a square tapered BBracket, as you tighten the crank upon to the Crank shaft, that it gets tighter more you do it up, if you put a spacer/washer behind, it wont be able to pull up and tighten, or am I getting it wrong,
Could you give me Idea how these spacers will work

The spacer goes between the frame and the BB cup ala

tinytim

Thanks Alex, Redvee, for you advice, you've been very helpful

I went to a different Bike shop, they new exactly what it was all about, Measured the BB crank shaft, original one was 111-112 mm long , I bought a new one at 118MM , Chain line is good now, also not a spot of play in the crank movement
Thats another job sorted!