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2 questions re issues on new bike

RiderontheStormRiderontheStorm Posts: 39
edited August 2010 in Road beginners
Had my 3rd 12 miler tonight on my new bike. During my cycle I noticed a slight rattle when in top gear. It appears the chain rubs the front derailleur chain guide. It this usual or should I ask the bike shop to make a small adjustment or for that matter do it myself ?

Second question is how true should a wheel rotate. Had the bike upside down and on rotating the rear wheel I noticed that it seemd to stop at a definitive point. On rotating the wheel I noticed that at one point it just touched the rubber and opposite there was a gap of approx 1mm. Is this acceptable or again should my dealer true the wheel alignment ?

Cheers
Trek 1.5 Triple 2011 Black
GT Avalanche 1 MTB 2007 Steel Blue

Posts

  • It's pretty Tricky to get a triple to not rub in the top and bottom gears. I would watch YouTube on gear adjustment and have a go yourself....it won't be long until you have to do it yourself at some point. Also, I am sure the shop will help if it doesn't work out.

    As for the wheel alignment, sounds like it needs a little tweak with a spoke key. Trickier yourself but maybe take it in and ask the dealer to show you how?

    Tony
  • Mister WMister W Posts: 791
    On the biggest ring and smallest cog the chain shouldn't rub on the front mech. The simplest way to adjust it is by using the in-line cable adjusters. You probably only need to tweak it a small amount so the chain just clears the mech.
  • woodywmbwoodywmb Posts: 669
    Use the limit screw to allow the derailleur to come out past the chain as it sits on the biggest ring. Pull on the gear cable as it runs down the seat tube from the saddle. If this action moves the derailleur out you can adjust it using the fingergrip turner on the cable as it comes out of the left shifter. If this action doesn't move the derailleur because it is already extended fully then you should turn the H limit screw on the mech anti-clockwise. Watch closely and you'll see the mech shifting out. The other problem requires centring of the brakes on the wheel. It shouldn't need anything more if the bike is new and the gap on one side is as small as 1mm. However new bikes can come with out-of-true wheels, especially the rear one which is assembled differently. To centre the brakes, turn the tiny screws on the brake arm. There's one on each side. Sometimes you need a cross-slot screwdriver; other times a small Allan key. Tighten and loosen each one in turns but do it gently. You'll see the whole unit float from side to side. Stop when the brake is centred with 0.5mm between each block and the wheel.
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