fat tyres

flatpat
flatpat Posts: 78
edited August 2010 in Commuting general
I find the front end of my Kona Sutra uncomfortable and jarring around town, perhaps because I've been riding a lot of mtb recently. Oddly the rear is fine - perhaps the steel frame doing it's thing.

Am currently running Conti Top Touring 28mm - would swapping to, say, 32mm Sport Contacts take the sting out of the bumps without making me considerably slower? Or something even larger?

On the mtb I've recently made the discovery of slow aggressive front/fast rolling rear tyre combo which works a treat. Has anyone ever tried a big comfy front/small nippy rear tyre combo on a road bike?

N.B. I already have some of that specialized padded bar tape stuff - a small improvement but no more tan that

Comments

  • flatpat wrote:
    I find the front end of my Kona Sutra uncomfortable and jarring around town, perhaps because I've been riding a lot of mtb recently. Oddly the rear is fine - perhaps the steel frame doing it's thing.

    Am currently running Conti Top Touring 28mm - would swapping to, say, 32mm Sport Contacts take the sting out of the bumps without making me considerably slower? Or something even larger?

    On the mtb I've recently made the discovery of slow aggressive front/fast rolling rear tyre combo which works a treat. Has anyone ever tried a big comfy front/small nippy rear tyre combo on a road bike?

    N.B. I already have some of that specialized padded bar tape stuff - a small improvement but no more tan that

    what pressures are you running at? might well be able to drop it a bit.
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    The only real benefit from a fatter tyre is being able to run at lower pressures anyway, so as RM says, try dropping the pressures a little.

    A nice springy carbon fork helps as well!

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • flatpat
    flatpat Posts: 78
    Running about 70 (although probably dropped a touch since I last pumped them up) on the front - 85 on the rear.

    Hmm will experiment.

    Do carbon forks really make that much difference? Current forks are steel Kona Project 2s. They're very straight, I can't imagine they have much give.
  • snailracer
    snailracer Posts: 968
    flatpat wrote:
    Running about 70 (although probably dropped a touch since I last pumped them up) on the front - 85 on the rear.

    Hmm will experiment.

    Do carbon forks really make that much difference? Current forks are steel Kona Project 2s. They're very straight, I can't imagine they have much give.
    Carbon forks dampen small vibrations well, but they won't absorb bigger bumps any better than your rigid steel fork. The straightness and profile of carbon forks (and the intrinsic non-stretch properties of carbon fibre) show that they are designed to be rigid.

    The smoothest-riding forks are steel ones that taper and curve towards the tip. The straight ones on your bike are not like that - the tips are chunky to withstand the torque generated by disc brakes, the straightness and large diameter promote stiffness to maintain accurate steering over rough terrain – clearly they are relying on the tyre for suspension action.

    I concur with the recommendation for wider tyres at lower pressure. Also consider handlebar grips with more cushion and padded gloves.
  • fnegroni
    fnegroni Posts: 794
    If I were you, I would consider switching to a higher TPI tyre casing. Vittoria has some.
    Continental tyres, while durable (I have a few), and reliable, are not the most comfortable by a mile. Their highest TPI is 110 (GP4000S), most are between 50 and 60 at most, which makes for a strong tyre casing, but then I bet a rock would probably achieve same...
    Lower pressures can help but might just reduce reliability (pinch flats, bigger tyre footprint exposing the more puncture prone sides of the thread).
    You might also want to look into rebuilding your wheel with slightly looser spokes to give it some give.
    A new saddle with titanium rails or elastometers can also help.
    As for smaller section tyre rear, bigger section front combination, IMHO, wouldn't work on a road bike as you intend it to.
    Most weight on a road bike is on the back. What you need is a more compliant front end, which is a combination of geometry and components. Tyres are the quickest and cheapest parts to replace, a higher TPI count will make a bigger difference.
  • flatpat
    flatpat Posts: 78
    That's interesting - tpi was certainly not something I'd previously considered!

    On wiggle:
    Vittoria Randonneur Hyper City Folding Tyre £31.49 (gasp! very light though)
    Vittoria Randonneur Pro City @£22

    Think I might go for the Pro City in size 37.

    Thanks you all for the suggestions - I'll let you know in due course whether the tyres have stopped my moaning!
  • biondino
    biondino Posts: 5,990
    And you're really okay with going a lot slower?