Changing Spark plugs
ddraver
Posts: 26,745
Hi Guys
I can service my bike fine - no problems - but I am terrifie of my car! The Coil Packs need changing and there is some advice to change the spark plugs too
The car is out of warranty and such so I don't really have anything to loose, Should I have a go....?
Cheers
davek
I can service my bike fine - no problems - but I am terrifie of my car! The Coil Packs need changing and there is some advice to change the spark plugs too
The car is out of warranty and such so I don't really have anything to loose, Should I have a go....?
Cheers
davek
We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
- @ddraver
- @ddraver
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Comments
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The Northern Monkey wrote:Haynes manual.
+ potato and the correct tools for the job!0 -
tools, plus its the easiest job in the world unless you have a Jag XJS V12 then its a bitch0
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coil packs are very simple to change and when changing plugs use the right sized sparkplug socket, avoid cross threading and DO NOT over tighten them
tip: put a small amount of copper grease on the threads before fitting, it makes it easier to change them next time.0 -
A Land Rover Discovery II V8 is also an absolute swine, I know from experience0
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And be the fuck careful screwing them back in. You don't wanna drop any shit down the holes they come out of and you don't wanna cross thread them.
My advice, when putting them back in, screw them backwards a bit until you feel the bump of them reaching the end of the thread. Screwing them in, just use the spark plug socket and whatever extension to need. No bar. It should not take any more effort then two fingers to screw in. Then they need a nice nip at the bottom.0 -
you never told us what car it is :?:Boardman Comp.
Norco Fluid0 -
do it yourself, tis easy.0
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One thing to also remember is to do one at a time and leave the HT leads on the spark plugs till you change that sparkplug. It might seem obvious but a friend did it by taking all the HT leads off in one go :roll:I've added a signature to prove it is still possible.0
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redvee wrote:One thing to also remember is to do one at a time and leave the HT leads on the spark plugs till you change that sparkplug. It might seem obvious but a friend did it by taking all the HT leads off in one go :roll:
He is changing a dispac. He won't have HT leads
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Same goes for the glow-plugs on a 306 turbodiesel. They're all hiding under the intercooler, and several layers of plumbing, at an angle, which means you have to take even more plumbing off to get at the fuggers.Raymondavalon wrote:A Land Rover Discovery II V8 is also an absolute swine, I know from experience
ARGH0 -
yeehaamcgee wrote:Same goes for the glow-plugs on a 306 turbodiesel. They're all hiding under the intercooler, and several layers of plumbing, at an angle, which means you have to take even more plumbing off to get at the fuggers.
ARGH
I recently found out that 1 glow plug on each and every 106 diesel is pre snapped off for you in the factory, saves you having to go to the trouble of snapping it yourself.
Fact.0 -
yeehaamcgee wrote:
Same goes for the glow-plugs on a 306 turbodiesel. They're all hiding under the intercooler, and several layers of plumbing, at an angle, which means you have to take even more plumbing off to get at the fuggers.Raymondavalon wrote:A Land Rover Discovery II V8 is also an absolute swine, I know from experience
ARGH
+ very annoying potato :evil:
Changed them on my 306 DT, after a lot of faffing with the first 3, got to the last one at the flywheel end, just removing it and managed to drop the old one which landed on the rag i had conveniently placed there and rolled into the gap and into the bell housing where the flywheels is :shock: :oops:
Much swearing, bent bits of wire, magnets on a stick and more swearing later i managed (somehow) to get it out. The funny thing was the hole that it fell into was only just (barely) big enough for the glowplug to pass through, some fluke of bad luck made it drop in like it was the size of a dustbinMTB's, SC Blur LTc & Cotic Soul (26" definitely aint dead!).
Other, Genesis Croix De Fer0 -
ddraver wrote:Renault Scenic - 1.6 Petrol. Seeing as they re only a couple of squis each i think it might be worth oing, although to be honest the whole car is overue for a service....can't afford it though :oops:
Worth doing & if cash is a consideration there are a few independent car parts places in Llandudno0 -
If its in need of a service make sure you change the engine oil and filter its a very easy job to but will knacker your engine if left not done
get yourself a haynes manual well worth the £12 or get to a car boot sale and pick one up for a £1
changing the spark plugs and coil packs are very easy and get them from a independent parts place much cheaper than Renault
but please do get the oil done again parts from a independent parts place should only cost £20 but will save a engine rebuildSpecialized Camber Expert
Specialized Allez Sport0 -
Go to your Renault dealer and have a word with the mechanics. There is usually at least one guy who will do a service for you on your drive for cash.Fig rolls: proof that god loves cyclists and that she wants us to do another lap0
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If you change you spark plugs it is always worth checking the gap is set right, a spark plug gapper or feeler gauge of the right size does the trick, it stops those why is my car still running rough moments.-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_-_
Mongoose Teocali
Giant STP0
Why are MTB economics; spend twice as much as you intended, but only half as much as you wish you could afford? :roll:0 -
Oil change is probably next on my list of manly things to learn...
See Captainfly, you ve hit the nail on the head - changing the coil packs means changing the spark plugs (or it's beneficial to) which means checking the gap (no idea what that is), which means... which means...
Am i just better off giving it to fingers fred down the local garage....?We're in danger of confusing passion with incompetence
- @ddraver0 -
haynes manual £20
euro car parts, oem bits for not much cash ( i use them for the saab)
some basic tools (if you got ratchets and stuff for the bike you prob only need spark plug socket and rubber glove)
old basin must hold at least 7 litres, think the renault needs at least 6 litres for a change and a funnel
plugs are a doddle as other have said, but to help stop the cross threading for awkward plugs i use a length of plastic pipe. it slips well before you cross thread it
try changing the last plug on a old 700/900 series turbo volvo. or the distributor cap. EEK!!!
for the oil (remember that rubber glove?
it wasn't for kinky purposes you mucky lot ) grip the oil filter with that and it should come off easy enough, if not you might have to use a strap wrench or even ram a sturdy screwdriver through it **VERY VERY MESSY LAST RESORT ONLY** to get it to move have old basin handy, some oil will come out here. now go to your sump plug and undo it but stop before it's fully out. now loop a bit of string around the plug and finish taking it out. but hang onto the end of the string it stops you having to fish around in the old oil for it later.
replace the sump plug, run a smear of fresh oil over the new seal on the oil filter, spin that on but on hand tight, and refill the oil. thats what the funnel is for. run engine for a min or two check for leaks and doouble check the oil level. will need a top up as the filter is now full
dispose of the oil properly. most council tips have a oil recycling bin there
hope that helps you.keep fit, eat well, die anyway!!0 -
ddraver wrote:I can service my bike fine - no problems - but I am terrifie of my car! The Coil Packs need changing and there is some advice to change the spark plugs too
I'm exactly the same. Pretty comfortable with a bike having taken them to bits since as long back as I can remember - I was poor! I was still poor when I got my first car too, so learned a few bits and bobs, but never became confident in any way. I've thrown myself into the deep end lately though, buying a rare imported japanese car, so I'm learning fast! Next job is the CV boots.
Spark plugs are easy, but can be a faff depending on the car. It can take a couple of hours to do mine, but most are do-able in five mins. There's only a few things you need to remember..
Gap the plugs down to the manufacturers recommendation. your talking decimal places in millimetres, so take your time. There'll be loads of advice on this on the internet.
Make sure you drop no crap in the engine - get the hoover out if there's a load of crud sitting down by the plugs. And screw them in finger tight before getting the wrench out. They should only need another half a turn or so, they don't need to be super tight. Job done.
The only semi-difficult bit, is gapping them.
Then do your oil. Your car will thank you for it.0 -
gapping them is bending the earth electrode towards the centre electrode. you need a set of feeler gauges to do it best in my opinion.
you should be able to find out on line what gap the plugs need to be set at and feeler gagues are cheap from halfords
as for finger tight, its a general term, you dont necessarily need to be able to get your fingers to them, just nip them up with the socket you have.0 -
ddraver wrote:Sorry, Gapping them?!
Look it up online. But yes, as sheepsteeth says, there's a little metal bit on the bottom of the plug. You need to bend it so it's the right distance from the plug itself. Don't worry about it too much though, it's not going to be catastrophic if you get it wrong, and you can always slip the old plugs back in while you give them to someone else to do
But it's unlikely that'll be necessary.How do you do the plugs finger tight?!, I can't reach them in the hole the coil pack comes out of?! (Or are they somewhere else?!??!)
Finger tight: tightening with your fingers (.e. without a wrench) until you can't tighten them anymore. Just stops you from over tightening them, and/or stripping any threads by cross-threading them - there's generally not enough power in your fingers to do that! If you can't reach them, it's no big deal - if you're comfortable around a bike, you'll be comfortable screwing a plug in, as that's all it is, screwing it in. T'is no more difficult than a lightbulb.0 -
i'll screw you in in a minute.0
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sorry, i'm spoken for :P0
