Sturdy bike recommendations
Don.
Posts: 43
Hi guys,
Im kinda new to all this, and know very little about bikes makes \ models. I am starting to read up on it though...
Im looking to get a new bike for commuting in London (round trip 18-20miles per day).
It must be sturdy enough for me + backpack (+150kg)
If possible the tyres need to be fairly puncture resistent (I got two punctures on the way home last night.)
Are there high pressure inner tubes? My current tyres look flat when I get on the bike.
Id like to spend about £400 on the bike... more if I can get it through a ride to work \ other company scheme.
Id be greatful for any suggestions.
Thanks
Don
Im kinda new to all this, and know very little about bikes makes \ models. I am starting to read up on it though...
Im looking to get a new bike for commuting in London (round trip 18-20miles per day).
It must be sturdy enough for me + backpack (+150kg)
If possible the tyres need to be fairly puncture resistent (I got two punctures on the way home last night.)
Are there high pressure inner tubes? My current tyres look flat when I get on the bike.
Id like to spend about £400 on the bike... more if I can get it through a ride to work \ other company scheme.
Id be greatful for any suggestions.
Thanks
Don
0
Comments
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For the distance you want a road bike but these often can't mount panniers - I wouldn't recommend a backpack for a 10 mile ride. Because of this a hybrid with 700c wheels might be worth considering (usually have narrower tyres so better rolling resistance and hence quicker). Have a look at this thread where a similar question is being considered.Steve C0
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The +150kg poster asks for a "sturdy" bike and gets recommended a road bike or a hybrid with 700c wheels :?
At any given price point, a mountain bike will be stronger. One without suspension will be more reliable. The strength is mainly in the sturdier 26" wheels, as the frame on any type of bike is usually adequately strong for commuting.
A mountain bike frame will also have larger clearances for wider tyres, mudguards, etc. Wide tyres are better at avoiding snakebite punctures (ie bottoming out against the rim) than narrow ones, unless a heavyweight rider is diligent enough to top up a narrow tyre to 120psi every day.
A road bike/hybrid might be noticeably faster on paper, but in London, traffic and junctions will make the difference negligible over the distances mentioned.
There is no such thing as a high-pressure inner tube - the maximum pressure is set by the tyre's rating.
For commuting, I would suggest replacing the stock knobbly MTB tyres. I would look for a puncture-resistant tyre, with minimal "knobbles", that can be pumped up to high-ish pressure and available in reasonably wide widths. I fit Schwalbe City Jets in 26" x 1.5" on my old mountain-bike-turned-commuter, I am sure there are other good choices. You can include additional tyres in the ride-to-work scheme.0 -
I'd advise a steel framed tourer such as a Dawes Galaxy, that sort of thing. Fit it with 28mm tyres, I run Schwalbes (can't remember which one) that have quite a thick tread and they've been great. The bike came with larger tyres but when they wore out I went to 28s and it definately went a bit quicker due to the weight difference. Had it over 40mph quite a few times :-)
A tourer isn't just designed with racks and mudguards but you have more spokes per wheel to carry extra load. Mine is Edinburgh Bicycles own brand Country and it's been excellent over many 1000s of miles. Current model isn't far above 400, might be 499. For the Dawes have a look at their range, a Galaxy will be well over 400 but they have cheaper model with both straight or drop handlebars.http://www.strathspey.co.uk - Quality Binoculars at a Sensible Price.
Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!0 -
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... 65534#dtab
Seems good value for a commuter. The discs should come in handy for bad weather.
Any stock bike you buy will most likely need the tyres replacing at some point, either to get more puncture resistant ones, or to get a nicer tread for your commute (you want low rolling resistance else your'll get knackered quickly).
If you end up going the MTB route + slicks, then the Specialized Hardrock is a good bike around the £300-£400 mark. It was my first MTB like 10 years ago and built like a tank0 -
snailracer wrote:The +150kg poster asks for a "sturdy" bike and gets recommended a road bike or a hybrid with 700c wheels :?
I didn't mean a carbon fibre joby or anything like that... I saw that the OP had an 18 mile round trip to ride. I missed the 150kg bit... :oops:
I'll go and stand in the corner.
I just thought that around £400 it might be difficult to find a good MTB (as most will have fairly poor front suspension units) so a rigid fork hybrid or road bike would be best. (By road bike I mean anything with drop handlebars, and hybrid with flat handlebars).Steve C0 -
the Subway is a very good look, add some Marathons and you'll have a fast nearly puncture proof weapon.0
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snailracer wrote:The +150kg poster asks for a "sturdy" bike and gets recommended a road bike or a hybrid with 700c wheels :?
At any given price point, a mountain bike will be stronger. One without suspension will be more reliable. The strength is mainly in the sturdier 26" wheels, as the frame on any type of bike is usually adequately strong for commuting.
A mountain bike frame will also have larger clearances for wider tyres, mudguards, etc. Wide tyres are better at avoiding snakebite punctures (ie bottoming out against the rim) than narrow ones, unless a heavyweight rider is diligent enough to top up a narrow tyre to 120psi every day.
A road bike/hybrid might be noticeably faster on paper, but in London, traffic and junctions will make the difference negligible over the distances mentioned.
There is no such thing as a high-pressure inner tube - the maximum pressure is set by the tyre's rating.
For commuting, I would suggest replacing the stock knobbly MTB tyres. I would look for a puncture-resistant tyre, with minimal "knobbles", that can be pumped up to high-ish pressure and available in reasonably wide widths. I fit Schwalbe City Jets in 26" x 1.5" on my old mountain-bike-turned-commuter, I am sure there are other good choices. You can include additional tyres in the ride-to-work scheme.
That was really informative, thanks Snailracer.
Id heard \ was thinking of Continental City Contact tyres, but will definitely look at Schwalbe City Jets (depending on the bike I end up getting)..nich wrote:http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_759105_langId_-1_categoryId_165534#dtab
Seems good value for a commuter. The discs should come in handy for bad weather.
Any stock bike you buy will most likely need the tyres replacing at some point, either to get more puncture resistant ones, or to get a nicer tread for your commute (you want low rolling resistance else your'll get knackered quickly).
If you end up going the MTB route + slicks, then the Specialized Hardrock is a good bike around the £300-£400 mark. It was my first MTB like 10 years ago and built like a tank
nich, awesome post.
Both those bikes look good. really afordable as well.
I'll be taking a look at both of those.
Thanks to the other guys who replied as well.
Whatever I decide, I better do it quick if I want to get it before the bike\ride to work scheme is changed.
If anyone has anything to add \ bike suggestions, Id be happy to hear it.0 -
Don. wrote:Whatever I decide, I better do it quick if I want to get it before the bike\ride to work scheme is changed.
The change in the scheme is that when you come to buy back the bike from your employer, HMRC are now looking at the valuation of the bike, so you're much less likely to get it for 1% or 5%, it'll be 15%++
And this'll apply right now! So yeah - consider whether you want to do the scheme at all
It's usually still worth it, as you are getting a 10-20% discount and a 1 year interest free loan, but make sure you don't lose sight of the fact you're going to shell out hundreds of pounds and buy something you can't affordFCN 4 - BMC CX020 -
Id heard \ was thinking of Continental City Contact tyres
i use them on my mtb when I'm commuting on it. they're the absolute business. no punctures, nice and grippy and roll really easily. the reflecty wall is handy in the dark too.0 -
Don. wrote:Hi guys,
Im kinda new to all this, and know very little about bikes makes \ models. I am starting to read up on it though...
Im looking to get a new bike for commuting in London (round trip 18-20miles per day).
It must be sturdy enough for me + backpack (+150kg)
If possible the tyres need to be fairly puncture resistent (I got two punctures on the way home last night.)
Are there high pressure inner tubes? My current tyres look flat when I get on the bike.
Id like to spend about £400 on the bike... more if I can get it through a ride to work \ other company scheme.
Id be greatful for any suggestions.
Thanks
Don
I started on a Giant Yukon (£280) at 30 stone plus.
With 75Psi City Jet Tyres, get a track pump to ensure you are at the MAX Psi
(Ps for my progress check this video, cycling is AMAZING, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUSimNBZsBE)On a Mission to lose 20 stone..Get My Life Back
December 2007 - 39 Stone 05 Lbs
July 2011 - 13 Stone 12 Lbs - Cycled 17851 Miles
http://39stonecyclist.com
Now the hard work starts.0 -
This is hard to beat:
http://www.rutlandcycling.com/17873/Kon ... -Bike.html
A quality steel frame with all the brazings for rack etc and it comes with mudguards. And, City Contact tyres.
At £200 (or £210 for the pre built option) it's well under budget. I'd use the extra cash to upgrade the wheels as the stock ones seem to be the bikes weak point.0 -
The Carrera Subway (Halfords) would be a good bet, sturdy frame, 26" wheels, top end ones have a suspended seatpost and disc brakes, known reliable product, not to pricey or heavy, rack mounts (as others say, you really don't want a backpack).
It comes with reasonable road tyres, but better are available, my daughter uses heavy Bronx but they are as punc' proof as you'll get and cheap (£20/pair from the bay), I use nice light WTB slickasaurus and accept I'll get the odd fl@t.
Another option you could consider is the Carrera Gryphon, its a touring frame so a bit burlier than a road frame, basically a 700c wheeled Subway, again excellent value and often overlooked, although the frame is restrictive on tyre width, may take 32's, nothing wider for sure.
For a rack I use the Madison Ridge disc specific, cheapest decent quality and light rack for disc bikes you will find, if you go for non disc then the choice of rack is easier.
To be clear there is NO change in the C2W scheme, HMRC have merely clarified their guidance on what the rules are after years of people flouting them (and strictly being guilty of tax evasion by not declaring the benefit in kind recieved), better that way than coming down on transgressors after the fact!
The 'suggested values' are just that, the FMV can be set lower as long as it can be justified.
SimonCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
hfidgen wrote:Don. wrote:Whatever I decide, I better do it quick if I want to get it before the bike\ride to work scheme is changed.
The change in the scheme is that when you come to buy back the bike from your employer, HMRC are now looking at the valuation of the bike, so you're much less likely to get it for 1% or 5%, it'll be 15%++
And this'll apply right now! So yeah - consider whether you want to do the scheme at all
It's usually still worth it, as you are getting a 10-20% discount and a 1 year interest free loan, but make sure you don't lose sight of the fact you're going to shell out hundreds of pounds and buy something you can't afford
That shouldnt be a problem if Im buying it through my own company though, right?0 -
If your buying through your own company its academic as you will be moving 'wooden dollars', and you'll get the full benefits, employee and employers, gov't are practically paying you to buy it!
Just rechecked, only 3 subway models now, no sus seatpost, choice of V-brake (£299), disc (£349) or hub geared and hub roller brake (£349 with mudguards) if you like the near zero maintenence approach, Gryphon can be had in V or disk for the same price as the subways.
To explain the rack/backpack comments, you'll find riding that long with a backpack, you get a very very sweaty back, much better with something off your back like panniers or saddle bag.
SimonCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
gb155 wrote:
I started on a Giant Yukon (£280) at 30 stone plus.
With 75Psi City Jet Tyres, get a track pump to ensure you are at the MAX Psi
(Ps for my progress check this video, cycling is AMAZING, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUSimNBZsBE)
Thanks for the reply.
Will def take a look at the Giant Yukon, esp since its almost half the price of my current favourite.0 -
The Beginner wrote:The Carrera Subway (Halfords) would be a good bet, sturdy frame, 26" wheels, top end ones have a suspended seatpost and disc brakes, known reliable product, not to pricey or heavy, rack mounts (as others say, you really don't want a backpack).
It comes with reasonable road tyres, but better are available, my daughter uses heavy Bronx but they are as punc' proof as you'll get and cheap (£20/pair from the bay), I use nice light WTB slickasaurus and accept I'll get the odd fl@t.
Another option you could consider is the Carrera Gryphon, its a touring frame so a bit burlier than a road frame, basically a 700c wheeled Subway, again excellent value and often overlooked, although the frame is restrictive on tyre width, may take 32's, nothing wider for sure.
For a rack I use the Madison Ridge disc specific, cheapest decent quality and light rack for disc bikes you will find, if you go for non disc then the choice of rack is easier.
To be clear there is NO change in the C2W scheme, HMRC have merely clarified their guidance on what the rules are after years of people flouting them (and strictly being guilty of tax evasion by not declaring the benefit in kind recieved), better that way than coming down on transgressors after the fact!
The 'suggested values' are just that, the FMV can be set lower as long as it can be justified.
Simon
Some useful info there, Simon, thanks.
I'll take a look at the Carrera Gryphon.
I wasnt keen on the Carrera Subway Ltd. It didnt feel right and the rims, saddle, etc were white.0 -
Hi Guys,
my current favourite is the Trek 7.3 FX 2010 Hybrid Bike.
It felt considerably better than the Carrera Subway that I tried yesterday.
It is a bit more expensive than I was intending on spending though.
http://www.evanscycles.com/products/trek/73-fx-2010-hybrid-bike-ec016510
Any comments?0 -
The Trek is a nice bike, but not that much better than the gryphon which is a lot cheaper and could be upgraded to better for less than the saving I think, in fact its dropped in price since yesterday to £329 its a very different bike to the subway, when I comapred them it was more where they sat in the lineup than similarities.
My commuter uses a Gryphon frame (and that's about it mind!)
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... 65534#dtab
SimonCurrently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.0 -
I have a trek 7.3 and have just bought a new Specialized Crosstrail. I'm about 105kg and typically have another 8kg in my bag. The Trek definitely felt at it's limit with that weight and I popped a few spokes. It really doesn't like potholes at that weight either, so if you are looking at 150kg I couldn't recommend it. The crosstrail is lovely by comparison - feel loads sturdier, I'm not worried about smaller potholes any more and, despite the relatively fat tyres, it's not having a noticeable change in my commuting time as the gear ratio seems ideal for getting up to a decent speed for longer (as opposed to a slightly higher top speed on the Trek that wasn't practically achievable due to traffic restrictions/lights/queing).0
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I'll do my usual Kona promotion...
The Kona Dew range are very hardy beasts - and with that distance, a drop bar might be good.
This Dew Drop is good value but a bit over at £500 (discounted though, the RRP is £665):
http://www.cyclestore.co.uk/productDetails.asp?productID=22716
There are other Dews in the range for under £400 though:
http://www.cyclestore.co.uk/productDetails.asp?productID=22744&categoryID=4300 -
gb155 wrote:Don. wrote:Hi guys,
Im kinda new to all this, and know very little about bikes makes \ models. I am starting to read up on it though...
Im looking to get a new bike for commuting in London (round trip 18-20miles per day).
It must be sturdy enough for me + backpack (+150kg)
If possible the tyres need to be fairly puncture resistent (I got two punctures on the way home last night.)
Are there high pressure inner tubes? My current tyres look flat when I get on the bike.
Id like to spend about £400 on the bike... more if I can get it through a ride to work \ other company scheme.
Id be greatful for any suggestions.
Thanks
Don
I started on a Giant Yukon (£280) at 30 stone plus.
With 75Psi City Jet Tyres, get a track pump to ensure you are at the MAX Psi
(Ps for my progress check this video, cycling is AMAZING, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUSimNBZsBE)
Listen to this man - he knows what he is talking about.Steve C0 -
Cuchulainn wrote:I have a trek 7.3 and have just bought a new Specialized Crosstrail. I'm about 105kg and typically have another 8kg in my bag. The Trek definitely felt at it's limit with that weight and I popped a few spokes. It really doesn't like potholes at that weight either, so if you are looking at 150kg I couldn't recommend it. The crosstrail is lovely by comparison - feel loads sturdier, I'm not worried about smaller potholes any more and, despite the relatively fat tyres, it's not having a noticeable change in my commuting time as the gear ratio seems ideal for getting up to a decent speed for longer (as opposed to a slightly higher top speed on the Trek that wasn't practically achievable due to traffic restrictions/lights/queing).
Thanks Id way rather find this kinda stuff out before I buy the bike.0 -
gb155 wrote:
With 75Psi City Jet Tyres, get a track pump to ensure you are at the MAX Psi
(Ps for my progress check this video, cycling is AMAZING, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hUSimNBZsBE)
gb, Thats really impressive. Well done!!
Does anyone know where I can get some Schwalbe City Jets in London?
Only places I have found so far are all online and I'd really like to go out and get em this evening.0 -
just to say, I've got a disc carrera gryphon, and really like it, BUT the wheels weren't the best build, and I've popped a lot of spokes. I'm only 85kg and never hauled huge loads.0
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roger merriman wrote:the Subway is a very good look, add some Marathons and you'll have a fast nearly puncture proof weapon.
+1 to that except my Carrera subway 1 has been heavily modified. Only original part of it is the frame
Yer if you want that much weight on a bike i would veer towards an MTB but then what do you think touring bikes are for? A touring bike might be a nice bet for you. You get the racing bike narrow wheels for good road use it will be built up strong and its got all the lugs etc for the panniers etc if you dont want to go down the rucksack route. I personally only prefer a rucksack over panniers cos it makes the bike feel wierd. Though i dont like cycling with things on my back. Get a sweaty back quickly and health wise it damages your back a bit.
My Dad has a Boardman performance hybrid (flat bared road bike with discs essentially) and he's stuck a rack on it and made it ugly But looks aside its practical and carries everything without a problem and it still goes quite well ont he roads as well. Tyre's look for the Conti Ultra Gator super puncture proof stuff or the Schwallbe Marathon Plus's punture proof uber ones. I have a set of Marathon Plus's 26x1.35's and the only time i got a puncture was when i first fitted them and they refused to get on my rim... Yer i pinched my inner tube
After some persuaion though they went on fine and they pump up to 95 psi which for a 26" wheeled bike is always nice :P Havent had a puncture on them and seeing as ive only had them a month but easily clocked over 400 miles on them they dont appear to have worn much either. I reccommend them and no Schwallbe dont pay me for saying that :P but keep your eyes peeled for other tyres of a similar ilk.
Good luck on your find0