Bleed problems

cat_with_no_tail

I fitted some new Superstar pads to the Codes tonight. Looks like when new, the SuperStar pads are slightly thicker than the Avid pads, they were a reet censored to get in, even with pistons pushed as far back as they'd go.

Now I finally got them fitted and got the wheels back in, but the brakes now feel like they're on, and there is no movement in the levers at all, they are solid!

Figured perhaps with the superstar pads being thicker, there might be too much fluid in the lines, stopping the pistons from fully retracting, so I gave them a bleed. But it's still exactly the same. :?

So, either the superstar pads are too thick for the code calipers, or I've done something very very wrong.

Ideas, suggestions, comments?

CraigXXL

I have the same problem with their Kevlar pads in my Mono 4's. You can rub them done on a fine file or sand paper or go for a long ride to wear them down a bit and bed them in at the same time.

peter413

The pistons can sometimes take quite a lot of force to fully retract and sometimes they push themselevs out a bit again

cat_with_no_tail

I couldn't ride with them like they are, can barely shift it.

CraigXXL

With the pistons pushed right back mine the dragged heavily. I went as far as letting some fluid out to help.

peter413

CraigXXL wrote:

With the pistons pushed right back mine the dragged heavily. I went as far as letting some fluid out to help.

Thats funny, doesn't happen with my M4 with superstar pads, sintered or kevlar

cat_with_no_tail

That's it though, I figured a good bleed would have the same effect as letting fluid out.

Far as I can tell, pistons are all the way back. So it looks like I'll be sanding the pads down a little, which is a bit of a webbo thing to have to do if you ask me :evil:

Chris`I

Are the pistons flush with the caliper body? I'd guess codes are the same as Juicy/Elixr, and if the pistons are flush back against the caliper body then they are wound all the way back. A good bleed will only fix the problem if you have the pistons wound all the way back with any pad contact adjustment wound back too (and reach adjustment wound back but dont think that is your problem). Also make sure you arent forcing fluid in too hard as that will overfill them too and force the pistons out slightly even with everything set back as far as possible.

If the pistons are all the way back and it still rubs, then the only option is to file/sand the pads down as suggested.

allthegearnoidea

i'd be tempted to place the Largest flat blade screwdriver type implement you have in between the pads and crack the bleed nipple offand twist the flat blade to try and push them back in any more beofre sanding them down, Also, if you have a spring to push the pads apart bend it out some more to create more of a force to push the pads back,

but do agree its not ideal to have to sand your new pads down to get them to fit properly!