RS Revelation setup help?

Dick Scruttock

Can anyone help me. I have a 2010 RS Revelation team dual air u-turn and i am struggling to get it setup anywhere near how i want it. This was compounded last night when i road my friends bike fitted with Fox 32 RL's. The difference between the two forks was night and day, the fox was supple and in a total different league to how my RS is. So much was the difference that if i cannot make the RS as good its getting traded for a 2011 32 RLC.

Now what i really want is some ideas as to what to change and also what everything does. What does the gate adjust? Will adjusting the rebound adjuster stop the feeling of the front packing down when descending steps etc? Before anyone sends me to the Rev setup guide i have tried countless different air pressures in both the positive and negative chambers and i am getting no where.

nicklouse

if it is packing down you have too much rebound.

have you downloaded the manual and read it?

read the dual air set up info in the FAQs?

camerone

i run 10-15psi less in negative chamber, and about 30-35% sag on my 140mm revs on hardtail. i have rebound i think 4 clicks in from the slowest.
they are very plush and controlled on those settings for me on my Hummer...

I dont have them on my full suss but I do try and make sure front and rear run same sag, same speed rebound, have fox 36 on Heckler set up in similar way (obv. no negative chamber on those though)

Dick Scruttock

I had had a look over the manual but have been looking at various other sites for info.

The guide on here only explains how to add air to the shock and which chamber to inflate and deflate first, inc how to set sag on one and what adding more air to neg chamber will do iirc?

supersonic

So what sag are you running? Adding more negative pressure will suck the fork down, but increase fluidity at start of stroke.

Rebound adjust controls speed of rebound. Too liitle and it will bounce around. Too much and it will pack down, Back it off a bit. Experiment.

Compression adjust controls fork dive when braking and pedal bob. Turn it to max and it locks out.

FLoodgate controls the force required to overcome the lockout. It then returns to locked after the hit.

It is a case of experimenting. There is more to change than that Fox, hence you can get many different 'feels' from this fork. But what feel do you want, whty did thr Fox feel better?

Dick Scruttock

The fox was far more active, a lot plusher, felt to return ready for the next hit far better and also felt more controlled in its return. Like i say the difference was startling and its the first thing the rider of my bike commented on. He said "i think you need to either change your forks to some fox or start again from scratch as they feel terrible".

I run about 20mm of sag iirc. One thing i have just discovered is the RS manual states to set sag in the riding position. This would be seated so i will go and reset it now and test it on the ride later on.

I get the feeling i have never got anything like the full potential from them but i am not a massive fiddler, more of a fit it, adjust it once and ride it person.

supersonic

Your fork is better than the fox IMHO. More adjustment, lighter. It also has to bed in in. The FOX doesn't even have adjustble compression damping! So can feel too active.

Here is what I would do:

1) Set your sag STANDING. Go for 25-30%, and make sure both chambers have the same pressure. Set sag in LONGEST travel position. When done, add 10psi to the negative chamber.

2) Wind the rebound damping completely off.

3) Wind the compression damping completely off.

Go for a ride! Slowly increase rebound damping to get the feel you want. You will probably feel the fork is actually too active at first. If it starts to dive a lot and bounce about, add compression damping incrementally until it dies down.

ride_whenever

Well, if you've got the air u-turn then they're never going to be as plush as a set of fixed travel floats, basically you've got a whole load of extra seals for any air travel adjust fork assembly so there will always be more stiction hence less plush as there is that initial force needed to be overcome.

However, set them up right and they are very good. Let out all the air, set +ve for sag, then set negative to the same/1-5 psi higher and then sort out your rebound to taste.

Locotuning

Hi check the glossary and setup guide with problem solver section on my site:

http://www.locotuning.co.uk/tech-info.html

also a little more pressure in the negative makes these fell better too.

Northwind

More pressure in the negative makse the fork more reactive but does mean it uses its travel a bit easily in my mind... But you can add a little more air to prop the fork up, or use more compression damping, both have different effects and there's no right answer. Not everyone likes their forks to feel the same, to me what some call plush feels over-reactive, what I like would probably feel a little unresponsive to some.

The blackbox damping really is fantastic when you get it working right for you, but the trouble with so much adjustability is there's still only one ideal setting but there's 10 million wrong ones But replacing it is not the answer.

camerone

supersonic wrote:

Your fork is better than the fox IMHO. More adjustment, lighter. It also has to bed in in. The FOX doesn't even have adjustble compression damping! So can feel too active.

Here is what I would do:

1) Set your sag STANDING. Go for 25-30%, and make sure both chambers have the same pressure. Set sag in LONGEST travel position. When done, add 10psi to the negative chamber.

2) Wind the rebound damping completely off.

3) Wind the compression damping completely off.

Go for a ride! Slowly increase rebound damping to get the feel you want. You will probably feel the fork is actually too active at first. If it starts to dive a lot and bounce about, add compression damping incrementally until it dies down.

hold on. whats the compression damping? i am sure i have team revs (definately black box) do i have that?? is i havent found it??

nicklouse

top of the right leg.

if you have the pop lock and it is non adjustable you dont really have it as it is off or locked.

camerone

nicklouse wrote:

top of the right leg.

if you have the pop lock and it is non adjustable you dont really have it as it is off or locked.

top of right leg has a lockout so i mustnt have it. is the team supposed to have it???

camerone

supersonic wrote:

1) Set your sag STANDING. Go for 25-30%, and make sure both chambers have the same pressure. Set sag in LONGEST travel position. When done, add 10psi to the negative chamber.

.

is that standing upright, or in attack position, i imagine the latter?

The Northern Monkey

My 2010 Dual Air Team U-Turn Revs...


Compression damping on the right leg

My setup is as follows... (16st rider)

150psi in both -ve and +ve with about 25% sag. The rebound is set 5 clicks away from the fastest setting. Compression is all the way open.

Find it great, especially over lots of roots/continuous rocky sections.

camerone

The Northern Monkey wrote:

My 2010 Dual Air Team U-Turn Revs...


Compression damping on the right leg

My setup is as follows... (16st rider)

150psi in both -ve and +ve with about 25% sag. The rebound is set 5 clicks away from the fastest setting. Compression is all the way open.

Find it great, especially over lots of roots/continuous rocky sections.

so that gold dial on top of the lockout knob? i thought that just adjusted the point at which the lockout was over-ridden!?!?!

The Northern Monkey

camerone wrote:

The Northern Monkey wrote:

My 2010 Dual Air Team U-Turn Revs...


Compression damping on the right leg

My setup is as follows... (16st rider)

150psi in both -ve and +ve with about 25% sag. The rebound is set 5 clicks away from the fastest setting. Compression is all the way open.

Find it great, especially over lots of roots/continuous rocky sections.

so that gold dial on top of the lockout knob? i thought that just adjusted the point at which the lockout was over-ridden!?!?!

nuh the whole knob controlls the compression! It should click all the way round to "lockout".

camerone

The Northern Monkey wrote:

camerone wrote:

The Northern Monkey wrote:

My 2010 Dual Air Team U-Turn Revs...


Compression damping on the right leg

My setup is as follows... (16st rider)

150psi in both -ve and +ve with about 25% sag. The rebound is set 5 clicks away from the fastest setting. Compression is all the way open.

Find it great, especially over lots of roots/continuous rocky sections.

so that gold dial on top of the lockout knob? i thought that just adjusted the point at which the lockout was over-ridden!?!?!

nuh the whole knob controlls the compression! It should click all the way round to "lockout".

i am afraid i might be something of a clot here... my understanding was the whole dial, its all open or all lockout, i havent tried any settings in between. having just done as supersonic advised above its correct sag and rebound but travel gets eaten too quickly, sounds like a click or two around on this dial might prop it up a tad. is this right??
can everyone on the post accept apologies from the class thickie.....

The Northern Monkey

Spot on

As supersonic said: "Compression adjust controls fork dive when braking and pedal bob. Turn it to max and it locks out"

Dick Scruttock

Fork should be well bedded in by now, its been on the bike for about 700+ miles.

I have just redone the air pressure in the form, 100psi in the top and 110psi in the bottom. That gives me about 35mm of sag when i am on the bike.

nicklouse

camerone wrote:

i am afraid i might be something of a clot here... my understanding was the whole dial, its all open or all lockout, i havent tried any settings in between. having just done as supersonic advised above its correct sag and rebound but travel gets eaten too quickly, sounds like a click or two around on this dial might prop it up a tad. is this right??
can everyone on the post accept apologies from the class thickie.....

if you have the Pop loc or push loc then yes open or locked. (with the sprung blue knob/dial)

Pop loc adjust allows locked or what ever compression you want.,

and if you have the friction blue knob you have as much control as you want.

camerone

The Northern Monkey wrote:

Spot on

As supersonic said: "Compression adjust controls fork dive when braking and pedal bob. Turn it to max and it locks out"

ah :oops: thanks for that, time for another fiddle. ironically enough they were working very well before i just fiddled, i was curious as to whether they could be even better....

supersonic

Rick Draper wrote:

Fork should be well bedded in by now, its been on the bike for about 700+ miles.

I have just redone the air pressure in the form, 100psi in the top and 110psi in the bottom. That gives me about 35mm of sag when i am on the bike.

Looking good. Now try miniumum damping and go for a ride. if you still want a plusher feel, aim for 40mm of sag.

Dick Scruttock

One thing i did notice is the RS pressures listed on the leg seem very high. I am running 35psi under what they advise.

supersonic

Yep, they are usually too high. Always go on sag.