Old Orange P7. Good start for a tourer?

heavymental
heavymental Posts: 2,091
edited August 2010 in Tour & expedition
I might by myself an old steel P7, strip it down and build it up into a tourer. But I'm worried that these days I might struggle for parts. I'l probably need to stick a new BB in and would want to build it up with some drop bars and...ah..just realised...700c wheels are out of the question I guess?

My other option is a ti frame direct from China but thats a more expensive option.

Sorry...bit of a stream of conciousness!

Comments

  • toontra
    toontra Posts: 1,160
    I use an old Orange Clockwork (very similar to 90's P7 frames I think) for a tourer and it's brilliant. Braze-ons for rear rack and good geometry for long rides. Depending on the year you will probably need to source 1" steerer forks - the 1" headset won't be a problem. Personally I prefer 26" wheels for long tours, especially abroad. They are sturdier and easier to repair/replace.

    Don't know what to advise on drop bars although I'd be interested to see what you come up with. Are you sure MTB bars with bar-ends wouldn't be OK?

    a serious case of small cogs
  • amaferanga
    amaferanga Posts: 6,789
    On One still sell the original Inbred - the one with braze-ons for a rear rack. I used one of these for 12 months touring in Africa and it was perfect for the job. I think you'd end up with a similar bike if you went for the P7 or the Inbred, but at least you can get a new Inbred for not very much - £164.99. There's also a 29er Inbred.
    More problems but still living....
  • heavymental
    heavymental Posts: 2,091
    Hmm, will have to have a think. Might be a botch trying to get drops on it. Might look at what's available in terms of flat bars.

    hmm...£164 for an Inbred. Thats amazing value!

    Braze ons for racks...what is the attachment on the top of the seat stay? I always notice the eyelets down by the hub but what happens up the other end? Do you need eyelets up there too? I can't find a decent pic that illustrates it.
  • Weejie54
    Weejie54 Posts: 750
    edited August 2010
    Braze ons for racks...what is the attachment on the top of the seat stay? I always notice the eyelets down by the hub but what happens up the other end? Do you need eyelets up there too? I can't find a decent pic that illustrates it.

    Standard seat stay braze ons shown here:

    20-095-3.jpg

    Many ways round not having them but, if you do have them, you'll be glad of it.
  • amaferanga
    amaferanga Posts: 6,789
    The original Inbred has a full set of braze ons for a rear rack.
    More problems but still living....
  • andymiller
    andymiller Posts: 2,856
    amaferanga wrote:
    On One still sell the original Inbred - the one with braze-ons for a rear rack. I used one of these for 12 months touring in Africa and it was perfect for the job. I think you'd end up with a similar bike if you went for the P7 or the Inbred, but at least you can get a new Inbred for not very much - £164.99. There's also a 29er Inbred.

    Hmm. Strange. i thought On One were going to stop producing the Inbred because it had failed the stress tests for the new EN standared and instead would concentrate on the 456 - which passed the tests first time.

    The Inbred is a good bike and lots of people have been happily touring with them and people have even done the Great Divide Race on Inbreds. The 456 however also has mounting points for racks, is only 50g heavier (IIRC) and even more robust. it also comes with normal dropouts as opposed to slot.
    Italy Cycling Guide
  • lloyd_bower
    lloyd_bower Posts: 664
    Old steel Orange P7 would make an excellent tourer, it's got the rear rack mounts and good solid frame. As another poster says 26" wheels are better for touring outside of Europe with better availability of parts. No doubt you could get drops, but I wouldn't bother going to that expense, bar ends should be fine.
  • greasedscotsman
    greasedscotsman Posts: 6,962
    Weejie54 wrote:
    Braze ons for racks...what is the attachment on the top of the seat stay? I always notice the eyelets down by the hub but what happens up the other end? Do you need eyelets up there too? I can't find a decent pic that illustrates it.

    Standard seat stay braze ons shown here:

    20-095-3.jpg

    Many ways round not having them but, if you do have them, you'll be glad of it.

    I have a '94 P7, which may be similar to the one you have. It does not have the braze-ons on the side of the monostay to take a 4 point carrier like the one shown above. But you can mount a three point carrier, as it has an allen key bolt at the bottom of the monostay.

    Also I think the reach might be a bit long to fit dropped bars to. I'd just stick with a flat bar and maybe some big L-shaped bar ends.
  • simon_adams_uk
    simon_adams_uk Posts: 340
    I've toured extensively on an Orange C16R - including off-road in the Himalayas.

    Many (not all) Orange bikes from the mid 90s will have a 1" headtube which would make finding a drop-bar compatible stem pretty straightforward. Personally I would go for flat MTB bars with ergonomic bar ends. You could even consider these: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product.asp? ... rc=froogle

    26" wheels would be my preference (not everyone's though). They could be easily combined with drop bars by using canti brakes or indeed V brakes (although special drop bar levers required which are easily available).

    HTH
    S
  • skink2020
    skink2020 Posts: 92
    I've toured the western isles 4 times on a p7 with drop bars/bar end shifters. xt drivetrain and some slicks.
    The reach is a bit much on the drops due to geometry. I'd go for flat bars and bar ends this time around.
    The large print giveth and the small print taketh away. TW.
  • lloyd_bower
    lloyd_bower Posts: 664
    simon_adams_uk wrote:
    I've toured extensively on an Orange C16R - including off-road in the Himalayas.

    Many (not all) Orange bikes from the mid 90s will have a 1" headtube which would make finding a drop-bar compatible stem pretty straightforward. Personally I would go for flat MTB bars with ergonomic bar ends. You could even consider these: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product.asp? ... rc=froogle

    26" wheels would be my preference (not everyone's though). They could be easily combined with drop bars by using canti brakes or indeed V brakes (although special drop bar levers required which are easily available).

    HTH
    S
    Drop Bars - Interesting link, anyone tried them. I use bar ends mounted in-board of the gear/brake levers on my commuter. They're old curved x-lites bar ends reversed round as I couldn't find any straight ones of a decent length.
  • lloyd_bower
    lloyd_bower Posts: 664
    simon_adams_uk wrote:
    I've toured extensively on an Orange C16R - including off-road in the Himalayas.

    Many (not all) Orange bikes from the mid 90s will have a 1" headtube which would make finding a drop-bar compatible stem pretty straightforward. Personally I would go for flat MTB bars with ergonomic bar ends. You could even consider these: http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/product.asp? ... rc=froogle

    26" wheels would be my preference (not everyone's though). They could be easily combined with drop bars by using canti brakes or indeed V brakes (although special drop bar levers required which are easily available).

    HTH
    S
    Drop Bars - Interesting link, anyone tried them. I use bar ends mounted in-board of the gear/brake levers on my commuter. They're old curved x-lites bar ends reversed round as I couldn't find any straight ones of a decent length.

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