Campag Ultra Torque installation

tomBux2
tomBux2 Posts: 66
edited August 2010 in Workshop
Is there any consensus on the best method for installing these? I've read a lot on line about using Loctite and tightening by hand vs using a torque wrench to do up the cups, but can't seem to find any clear preference for either. My instructions say the Loctite method is preferable, but I think I read somewhere that Campag changed their minds about this later?

If using the Loctite method do I clean off the existing factory thread lock from the cup threads? What's the best way to do this?

Also I think my BB shell is faced (Kinesis RC2 frame) as there's a flat surface and no paint on the side, can I get away without chasing the threads as unsurprisingly I don't have engineering tools at my disposal!

Thanks :)

Comments

  • gethmetal
    gethmetal Posts: 208
    My LBS charged a fiver to face the shell and fit my Veloce c'set. Not doing it can have a serious effect on bearing service life, so I figure it's a fiver well spent.
  • tomBux2
    tomBux2 Posts: 66
    really!? mine quoted me £15 to fit a UT crankset, hence the desire to do it myself.
  • Velonutter
    Velonutter Posts: 2,437
    Your frame should have been faced from new, if not get in contact with them and give them a rollicking.

    I firmly subscribe to the view of K.I.S.S. no need to over complicate.

    Screw in cups after first having applied some copper slip, fit chainring side crank, fit LH crank, thread lock on the bolt that goes through the centre, tighten with 10mm allen key until really quite tight...bingo 8)
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    I'd definitely recommend Loctite if your frame has Italian threads - it's also good practise where there is no secondary mechanical locking method and is preferred practise for high-integrity applications like in aerospace. Most decent frames / BB shells these days are accurately machined such that they don't need facing - and way more accurate than the bodger with a knackered BB facing tool in your LBS!
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • keef66
    keef66 Posts: 13,123
    Why would Campag put thread-lock on the cup threads then tell you to clean it off and use Loctite??
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    Threadlock = Loctite - if it's a new installation no need to apply, but if re-installing best to clean the threads and apply new stuff.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • tomBux2
    tomBux2 Posts: 66
    Thanks for the replies, gives me a bit more confidence going for the install myself. LBS now says it's £20, so I think I'd rather invest in the tools and do it myself.

    The only thing that worries me about using the factory thread lock that's on there is the fact it only covers part of the thread. I would have thought that there's a chance of seizure where you have bare metal contact. I guess there's no harm in using both. It does seem bizarre that Campag tell you to use the Loctite, but still apply their own threadlock.