New MTB adjustment

kinelljohn

Hi everyone
I am a roadie/tourer for many years and bought a new MTB yesterday with a view to using that section of our club for winter training. OK so far.
For me, my seat height is 93cm (pedal axe, crank full down and in-line with seat tube, up the seat tube to seat to top of seat).
I have applied this to the new MTB and quick turn around the garden shows I am not far off - but - because of the fully suspended nature of the beast, when stood next to it the saddle is under my armpit and I now need a set of steps to get on and off :!:. Um, is this something I have to get used to or is there a new technique which has to be larned :?:

chedabob

Reverse the process you do to get off. Unless you finish by tipping over :P

kinelljohn

Yeah it looks like out of the saddle all the time for stops/starts as there is no way I can remain seated with one foot on the ground or even sling my leg over and while sitting on the seat - clip the right foot in, as on my road bike.
Ah well, looks like sliding forward and out of the saddle and left foot down (in my case) each time I have to stop for whatever reason.

cooldad

If you are going to be doing any serious off road stuff, you need to be able to get off easily, or dab.
A high seat is fine for climbing on relatively smooth stuff, but a lot of the time you might be standing, or hanging off the back on steep descents, so it's ok to change your seat height for prevailing conditions.
But some here would say lycra is a sin.

Anonymous

Riding position on a mountain bike is all about a compromise of control over efficiency.

When riding off road you need to be able to move around to put your weight where it's needed.

Mynameisdann

Just tilt the bike to mount/dismount

kinelljohn

Thanks guys. It's just that after I set the seat height in the conservatory and under the watchful eye of my wife and provider , I then tried to throw my leg over only to find it was all too high, my jeans wouldn't allow it, or both LOL. It brought back instant memories of my youth watching short guys struggling to get on/off trials bikes (motor) but they fared much better as once they were vertical they dropped the clutch and they were off.
So it's clear now - it's a new physical experience over my road bikes and will have to be learned. A trip in the rough will probably tell me the best height for the seat.
Well meant advice Mynameisdann but 45° is quite a "tilt" for a large frame with a high standover height, but perhaps the Lycra will allow it where the Denim failed miserably. I am new to the MTB but not to cycling

nikstar1

I have the same problem with my mountain bike! It is actually set up for my brother but I often borrow it to go a bit wild.

I don't really want to have to keep changing it so I will have to get used to it!

kinelljohn

Couple more questions for this aging juvenile :?
1...One of the freebies with my new bike was 2 x "puncture-proof" inner tubes.
The box tells me there is some repair gel inside and in principle you pull out the intrusion - turn the wheel so the puncture is at the bottom, thus allowing the gel to arrive at the hole - then pump to normal pressure! Is it really that easy or did they give them away because nobody buys them.
I have a vision of this stuff coming out and doing a good job sticking the tube to the tyre/rim/rim tape etc. :?:
Are these things best used/kept for spares/flogged or given to the opposition :?:
2...I am not a newcomer to spd's (my tourer) and cleats on my road bike.
The new bike has spd's but I am wondering if it's a good idea to use them right away in the rough. I expect, even anticipate to come a gutser frequently until I am used to the new techniques, so what's the general opinion - just do it or fit some ordinary pedals for the first couple of outings :?:

kinelljohn

Anybody :!:

t0pc4t

1. I don't use taht stuff and never have (for no particular reason) and so can't comment

2. If you're confident getting out of SPDs when you need to then you should be fine running them, whether or not they make a difference in MTB riding is a matter for near endless debate. It's my preference to run SPDs.

-liam-

Stick with the spd's.

So much more efficient than flat pedals and they encourage a greater level of bike control in my opinion.

kinelljohn

Thanks t0pc4t
1. I think I'll leave them on the shelf for the moment
2. I have no problem with SPD's and didn't intend to promote debate their benefits or not on MTB's - it's just that the stand-over height of the my new MTB is so much more than I am used to, I fancy there will be quite a bit of "dabbing" before I am used to it and therefore wondered if it would be a good idea or not to do the first few outings on ordinary platform pedals.

t0pc4t

I can see what you mean but personally I would just keep them on and loosen them off simple because when changing pedals I always

1. scratch my frame / cranks

2. hurt myself

with the filled tubes I would think the only real downside to them would be increased weight, might as well give them a go, swap em out if they're rubbish

kinelljohn

OK t0pc4t, thanks for that. Pretty much a suck it and see situation so the spud's it is.
Thanks all for the replies.

nicklouse

kinelljohn wrote:

Couple more questions for this aging juvenile :?
1...One of the freebies with my new bike was 2 x "puncture-proof" inner tubes.
The box tells me there is some repair gel inside and in principle you pull out the intrusion - turn the wheel so the puncture is at the bottom, thus allowing the gel to arrive at the hole - then pump to normal pressure! Is it really that easy or did they give them away because nobody buys them.
I have a vision of this stuff coming out and doing a good job sticking the tube to the tyre/rim/rim tape etc. :?:
Are these things best used/kept for spares/flogged or given to the opposition :?:
2...I am not a newcomer to spd's (my tourer) and cleats on my road bike.
The new bike has spd's but I am wondering if it's a good idea to use them right away in the rough. I expect, even anticipate to come a gutser frequently until I am used to the new techniques, so what's the general opinion - just do it or fit some ordinary pedals for the first couple of outings :?:

1 do you want to add a lot of rotating mass?
2 yes no maybe. XC bike yes but reduce the tension and use multi release cleats until happy. then up the tension/change to single release cleats.

I used to ride DH clipped in. Now only on the XC bike and the road bike.