Getting into Cyclo-cross

milese

I'd like to ride cyclo-cross this winter, and having never seen it let alone ridden it have a few questions.

1. Bike. Will I get away with a Giant SCR (has a bit of clearence for mudguards and a compact chainset) with cyclocross tyres and maybe cantilever brakes?

2. How much of a battering will the bike get? Are carbon forks ok? Lightweight road wheels? (eg Aksiums / std giant SCR)

3. Kit, any thing else bike or kit wise thats different from normal road riding?

4. Any specific training recommended? Riding around fields etc?! I guess courses might be available to preride.

5. How technical are the courses generally?

Thanks.

Pross

The giant may be OK but by time you've had the cantilever mounts put on and bought new canti brakes you may be better spending a few quid extra on a second hand cross bike. Carbon forks should be ok but I'd want stronger wheels. Have you got a mtb? If so try a few on that first to see if you like it. Courses vary from fast open courses to tricky ones like mini mtb circuits.

bigpikle

I've recently been struck by the cyclocross bug as well, and also never even seen a race let alone ridden in one!

Are there any resources to find local races? I tried the B Cycling site and while it has some general info I couldnt find anything local to me listed. Maybe its a little too early yet I dont know, but it just seems to be a big leap to get into it - bike and all the gear etc.

It looks pretty brutal and must be a good way to keep/build some fitness over winter. I'm just wondering where the hell you train as well, but suppose you just ride off-road as if you were riding an MTB?

milese

I didn't realise I'd need new mounts for different brakes. Are there any more appropriate brakes I could use that would be easier? Although I guess that if its dry I'd get away with the regular road brakes?

I've also got some more robust wheels - open pro rims on ultegra hubs that I could use. I guess they are more in the right ball park?

I've got 2 mtb's, one is a fully suss'd Stumpjumper FSR, and the other a Coventry Eagle from the 80s that I bought from a neighbour for a tenner. Neither are very appropriate!

There is a local 12 event series that I've got a flyer for, although due to a stag do, wedding and birthday I'm going to struggle make the first 3. Looks good though.

http://www.cyclo-cross.org.uk/

MikeWW

Fairly easy to get in to
I hadn't seen arce before but bought a 2nd hand cross bike for £200 last November and started racing
It will get muddy at some point so cantiller brakes and some decent tyres are important
Races are only just getting finalised-normally start September
Courses not too technical if you are used to MTB's Hardest bit is getting good at remounting the bike fast-getting off quick is relatively easy
Pace is pretty frantic so the quicker you can recover the better-bit like a crit in that respect
Most importantly its ace fun

sheffsimon

Bigpikle wrote:

I've recently been struck by the cyclocross bug as well, and also never even seen a race let alone ridden in one!

Are there any resources to find local races? I tried the B Cycling site and while it has some general info I couldnt find anything local to me listed. Maybe its a little too early yet I dont know, but it just seems to be a big leap to get into it - bike and all the gear etc.

It looks pretty brutal and must be a good way to keep/build some fitness over winter. I'm just wondering where the hell you train as well, but suppose you just ride off-road as if you were riding an MTB?

No problem doing all your training on the road - short hard intervals are good.

I used to go for a half-hour run once a week, seemed to make a big difference for me on the running sections.

andyp

I very much doubt you can use your Giant for cyclocross as you won't have enough clearance for cyclocross tyres (usually 32-34 mm). Cross frames have large clearances and cantilever brakes to combat the effects of mud build up and, in the UK especially, this is a very common problem.

You'll also find your gearing is a bit high, even with a compact as most people who race regularly use a 46/36 or 46/39 front chainring set up.

Your bike will get very battered so it's adviseable to use components that are older or that you don't care about getting scratched or damaged.

Most courses are fairly untechnical these days, as cross racing has evolved to be more about higher speeds than slogging around a muddy field.

Most areas in the UK have a cyclocross league and they are by far the best way to get involved with the sport.

SBezza

Giant SCR will be totally unsuitable for cross racing, clearances are not big enough, and you can really race with normal road brakes. You need loads of mud clearance, and tyre clearance.

Compact chainset might be fine, I guess it depends on you, my cross bike has a 50/34 chainset and I was fine last year at cross with it.

Aksiums should be fine, I know quite a few riders using them, and they said they have never had any issues with them.

beancounter

Bigpikle wrote:

Maybe its a little too early yet I dont know, but it just seems to be a big leap to get into it - bike and all the gear etc.

Damon,

I work in Bucks and I use a Cannondale cyclocross bike as my commuter.

I've been thinking about changing it and I could probably be persuaded to part with it fairly cheaply.

If you decide to get into cross and need an inexpensive starter bike, drop me a PM.

bc

airegin

For cross it is important to have a bike that has alot of clearance - much more than on a road bike.
Once it's the winter months and you are riding through muddy fields the bike will pick up lots of mud, which will make riding the bike impossible if you use a road bike.

If you are just starting out and want to get a feel for it, you can get away with using a mountain bike without suspension in the local cross league races, or a cheapo second hand cross bike.

Riding a cross race is pretty frantic for an hour - the best training you'll get over the winter, and a great way to keep warm! It's like riding a crit but off road, and with a few moments where you jump off and run with your bike, so would be similar training.

Being able to run also helps - especially if you can run uphill off-road. Some people fit in 5km runs as part of their training.

Courses aren't so technical nowadays as they like the races to be more about speed. An experienced mountain biker wouldn't find a cross course technical at all. Some courses may have highish hurdles that you jump over, and some may put in a stretch sand to ride across.

It's all lots of fun - give it a go!

echelon101

I am going to be hitting CX soon. Going to be joining the Leamington Cycle club

I looked at my old Saracen Tour when I got my new ProLite frame the clearances are completely different. I can fit about four fingers between the top of the rear tyre and the fork on the PL but only one on the Tour frame because of the frame. There is a major difference in tyre thickness between tread (Racing Ralphs) and slicks (road tyres).

I have a 39/53 on my chainset. The 53 is way too high but I am going to be using it for long cycles as well, so I'll be using the 39 (I like high cadence).

To stop the ramble. Basically I wanted a new bike, I could have bought a lovely full road carbon, a la Planet X etc, but I am going to commuting and would like a hardy bike. My research came up with CX type bikes. If you want to get into CX you will need a rear fork that will do it.

CX goes to Road but Road does not go to CX.

GiantMike

I recently built up a CX bike with:

50/34 crankset and 12-28 9 speed rear cassette
V-brake front and canti rear
FLAT bars and MTB-style levers (way better than drops and road levers, for me anyway). May fit bar ends this year.
32mm tyres on standard road rims (Giant IOU 333s)

Basically, unless you're very very fit you'll get lapped within the hour. I just use it as a good way of keeping fit over the winter. It's a bit like a TT in that you're racing others, but there's no advantage of drafting or tactics other than going as fast as you can.

Finally, make sure you finish a race if at all possible. The best training is in the last 10 minutes when you'll be proper knackered, cold, wet and heavy with mud.

maryka

echelon101 wrote:

I have a 39/53 on my chainset. The 53 is way too high but I am going to be using it for long cycles as well, so I'll be using the 39 (I like high cadence).

For cross? I'll be impressed if you can ride any kind of high cadence with a 39 unless you've got a 28 on the back! Speeds are a LOT slower than on the road. I have a 34x26 as my lowest gear on mine and I use it quite a bit in cross races (mid-pack).

bigpikle

I'm rather tempted to have a go at these races, if/when I get a bike sorted. They even have a novice category!

http://www.teammk.com/node/3855

Monty Dog

2 things about 'cross - it's one of the easiest ways to get into racing and a good rider on a £200 bike will romp over a poor rider on a 2 grand one. I've done as a little as 13 miles in an hour of cross racing - and I was in the top of the field! The most important choice is tyres and tyre pressure, particularly if it's really muddy. For starters, find the dates of your local cross league and enjoy yourself. FWIW your SCR simply isn't suitable - you should be able to find a used frame to swap your parts onto.

Sponging-Machine

Milese,

As has been said already, your road bike is unsuitable for cross racing. Rather than try bodging it or blowing money on a new cross bike, just give it a go on your mtb.

I tried a couple of cross races on my full-suss last year (also at the SW series). I didn't come last and was shocked by how welcome I was made to feel. Since then, I've sold my road bike and bought a cross bike instead, which I just run with road tyres for training on the road and cross tyres for dirt.

How near to Plymouth are you? I've got a few mtb mates down there that are also getting into cross this year after trying it on mountain bikes last year.

A top source for info is a book by Simon Burney called Cyclocross: training & technique. I found it was perfect for someone like me who's done some other cycle racing.

milese

I think I've found a decent rigid light 1990's MTB in my mates garage that would be ideal to try it out with.

I guess tyre choice for an MTB is much the same as the tyres you'd chose for your MTB in similar weather conditions, but as narrow as possible.

I'm virtually in Plymouth, well, I am as I type!

I'll see if I can get hold of a copy of the book.

Sponging-Machine

Sounds ideal. Give us a shout when you know which race you're going to try and I'll come and say hello.

bigpikle

got the CX tyres on my Cannondale tonight and headed out for a 6 mile off-road loop. The bridleways were really badly overgrown so it was tough to get going properly. Tried dismounts and remounts with good success but need some better traiing grounds me thinks...

milese

I've just bought this, for a whopping £130! Needs a few bits doing, but think its going to be ideal?

http://www.headshok.com/bikes/04/ce/model-4MRBB.html

Got some used LX V brakes and mechs ordered for a whopping £35. A longer stem and strip down and it will run well.



Any advice for mtb tyres to use?

Sponging-Machine

1.35" narrow enough? http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=24614

That Cannondale should be ideal and will be sweet for nipping to the shops too.

Bacteria Man

Anyone know of a league happening near NW London? I would like to go and see this cyclocross lark for myself, might be a nice day out this winter.

andyp

Both the Central - http://centralcxl.org.uk/ - and London - www.londonxleague.co.uk - leagues have races at Hillingdon which can't be that far from you?

simon t

do you get racing points aswell?

Agent57

With regard to bike setup, are the top-mounted Tektro-style brake levers worth having for CX races? I've bought a second-hand Tricross Sport Triple, and the previous owner removed those levers and binned them. I'm trying to decide if it's worth buying some more.

maryka

Agent57 wrote:

With regard to bike setup, are the top-mounted Tektro-style brake levers worth having for CX races? I've bought a second-hand Tricross Sport Triple, and the previous owner removed those levers and binned them. I'm trying to decide if it's worth buying some more.

It's nice to have more than one braking position in cross, and I do tend to ride a lot on the bar tops so I use them. But when you want to brake you're often descending something steep so may want to be in the drops anyway for better control and lower centre of gravity.

I'd say try it with what you have first, then if you feel like you want more/different braking options, get the levers and install them. It's very easy to do though a bit of a faff as you have to pull out and re-thread the cables and housing.