FSA SLK Light double chainring swap out.
Having a few issues with the compact that came as oem on the bike.... I want to change to a 53/38 (sic) thats in crc sale but at the best price where they only have 170mm.
172.5 is on at the moment.... I cant see that 2.5 mm is going to make any difference at all?
Opinions?
Its BB30 without bearings and just want to swap the cranks out.
I may have to adjust the front mech slightly?
Ii is a braze on.
I am assuming that there is adjustment to move the front shifter to allow for the larger 53 ring? - edit sorry stupid question ... just seen how the adjustment is made.
172.5 is on at the moment.... I cant see that 2.5 mm is going to make any difference at all?
Opinions?
Its BB30 without bearings and just want to swap the cranks out.
I may have to adjust the front mech slightly?
Ii is a braze on.
I am assuming that there is adjustment to move the front shifter to allow for the larger 53 ring? - edit sorry stupid question ... just seen how the adjustment is made.
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Comments
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I assume the frame is BB30. The cranks must also be BB30.
I don't know what issues you have with the current crankset but you can fit larger rings to compact cranks. I am using 52/38 Stronglight rings on my Ultegra SL compact cranks. They work fine.
You probably would never notice the difference in crank length.0 -
Simply the 34 is hardly used.
OK, have seen a FSA 38t chainring 110 bcd for a lot less moneta... will procede.
Keeping the 50t as is.0 -
is the Cannondale version for the Hollowtech crankset that uses shims.
is the FSA version of how to install the crankset on BB30 - NO SHIMS!!
I have the FSA -- so why when having replaced the crankset with a new inner ring do I have 2 fairly hefty shims left over on the floor?
If I install them then the crank does not rotate freely after torquing up the non drive crank.
So I have left them off and it seems to be normal service.
I havent road tested yet but when you have bits left over ........
just sometimes cant it go to plan??0