Have I damaged my chain
suzyb
Posts: 3,449
Took the chain off the bike today but pushed the pin too far and it came out. I managed to get it back together and the chain back on the bike but I'm assuming the chain wont be as strong as before and may fail in the future.
Am I correct. And if so should I get for when that occurs (new chain, chain links, something else).
Am I correct. And if so should I get for when that occurs (new chain, chain links, something else).
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Yes.
But will it be so weak as to fail rather than wear out? Probably not. Should be fine if your really worried take the link out.0 -
I wouldn't worry too much.
Get some quicklinks and add them to your chain, and I'd probably keep a spare set in my saddle bag to (just... because, really).
If it does go you can always break it again and drop a link out on the roadside; it'll work, and if the length is ok it should be fine.
I've never managed to get the pins back in though -- how did you manage?
Edit: The most important thing is that the pin is evenly inserted within the side plates. Check that all the pins look the same from both sides of the chain (you'll get bored of that though)Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.0 -
If you're worried you could always take out the offending pin and link, then replace with a chain link.
Alternatively if the chain isn't far off replacement just get a new one.0 -
I'm no expert but... I once took my chain off using the correct tools but put it back together poorly. Needless to say it failed on me in a Welsh valley!
If you feel you've weakened one pin/link, maybe replace it with a quick link...?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/KMC-9-Speed-Chain ... 335755f2dc0 -
[quote="davis"
I've never managed to get the pins back in though -- how did you manage?[/quote]
When I've done this, it is a case of aligning the plates with the hole in the chain tool and then holding the pin with a pair of tweezers over the hole and pushing it back in with the chain tool. It does tend to compress the link so you have to turn it around afterwards to loosen the link back up.Steve C0 -
sc999cs wrote:When I've done this, it is a case of aligning the plates with the hole in the chain tool and then holding the pin with a pair of tweezers over the hole and pushing it back in with the chain tool. It does tend to compress the link so you have to turn it around afterwards to loosen the link back up.
Hmmmm... interesting. I guess what I'm really asking is: how did you grow the extra hand required?Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.0 -
davis wrote:sc999cs wrote:When I've done this, it is a case of aligning the plates with the hole in the chain tool and then holding the pin with a pair of tweezers over the hole and pushing it back in with the chain tool. It does tend to compress the link so you have to turn it around afterwards to loosen the link back up.
Hmmmm... interesting. I guess what I'm really asking is: how did you grow the extra hand required?
The key was a good level surface to rest things on (I used a wheelie bin) and a lot of light. I linked the chain ends together and put them into the chain tool so the hole was aligned next to the pin driver. I held the chain tool in my left hand in such a way that my fingers could reach and turn the screw for the pin driver and rested my hand on the flat surface to keep it all as steady as possible. I held the pin with the tweezers above the hole and turned the pin driver just enough to push the pin into the first plate (took a few attempts as the pin tended to fall sideways) and wedge it securely between the pin driver and plates. Then I just carried on tightening the pin driver screw until pushed through.
However if you do still find you need an extra arm I hear Betelgeuse is the place to goSteve C0 -
I just used brute force
tbh I'm not sure how I managed to get the pin back in. Just lined things up as best I could with the chain tool and managed to get it in. But the pin seemed quite loose afterwards and I also seem to have bent the flat bit pushing it in squint.
Last couple of times I had no problems but this time it just all went completely wrong.
btw does it matter that it's a road bike.0 -
You could hurt yourself badly if your chain fails. I don't think this is something you should take a risk on - I'd take it to the LBS, it'll probably cost nothing or a nominal labour charge if they need to make a change.0
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suzyb wrote:But the pin seemed quite loose afterwards and I also seem to have bent the flat bit pushing it in squint.
It'll probably fail then. I'd take the link out or replace with quick links to save it going under load.btw does it matter that it's a road bike.
Nope.Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.0 -
+1 for a quick link. a shimano pin fitting seems archaic when there are cost effective and more efficient ways of doing it!0
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*sigh*
OK so the chain is a KMC Z72 according to the bike spec. Would it be something like this
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/KMC_C ... 360020546/
or this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/*2-x-8-Speed-KMC- ... 44ff4e23b7
I'd need.
(or are they the same thing)0 -
suzyb wrote:*sigh*
OK so the chain is a KMC Z72 according to the bike spec. Would it be something like this
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/KMC_C ... 360020546/
or this
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/*2-x-8-Speed-KMC- ... 44ff4e23b7
I'd need.
(or are they the same thing)
If you look at the picture on Wiggle closely it shows it fits a Z72 chain, not that it matters too much; the important thing is it matches your chain "speed" (9 speed etc being narrower than 8 speed).
I'd just buy the ones from Wiggle and replace the suspect link. If you can't find which one is the suspect one, I'd replace the entire chain and get some quick links in the new one (most come with them now I think). You don't want a chain going suddenly if you can avoid it.Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.0 -
I did the same, managed to get the pin back in and had absolutely no problems with it afterwards. I have a quick link now in my new chain - its so great to be able to get a really clean chain with no hassle, well worth it.0
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It is not ideal. I have done the same in the past and been OK but would not trust it as its not a risk worth taking.
get a powerlink (same as quicklink) from your LBS. It can replace the link in question as well as make it easy to remove the chain in future.Giant TCR advanced 2 (Summer/race)
Merlin single malt fixie (Commuter/winter/training)
Trek superfly 7 (Summer XC)
Giant Yukon singlespeed conversion (winter MTB/Ice/snow)
Carrera virtuoso - RIP0 -
I remember my brother teaching me how to break a chain using a nail and a hammer and then get it back together again (using a steady hand and patience). I know chain technology has evolved and I use a proper chain tool now, but I do think some people can be a bit precious about their chains. I've only had one chain ever fail on me and that wasn't one that I had 'maintained'.
I was MTBing on Hampstead Heath when my only failure happened (pre mobile phones) and I had to walk to a phone box to call my dad to collect me (Hampstead Heath isn't a place to hang out after dark unless you REALLY want to get to know George Michael) .
A broken chain can herald the end of play, so I don't recommend using a nail and a hammer as part of your routine maintenance, but in my experience, chains are pretty robust, however, since my Hampstead Heath experience, I now include a chain tool as part of my emergency tool kit (along with spare tubes, multi tool etc) as if I had that I could have just removed a link so that I could have made it home.
I now dread a catasrophic chain failure in the middle of nowhere due to my taunting the chain fairy.FCN 3: Raleigh Record Ace fixie-to be resurrected sometime in the future
FCN 4: Planet X Schmaffenschmack 2- workhorse
FCN 9: B Twin Vitamin - winter commuter/loan bike for trainees
I'm hungry. I'm always hungry!0 -
sc999cs wrote:davis wrote:I've never managed to get the pins back in though -- how did you manage?
When I've done this, it is a case of aligning the plates with the hole in the chain tool and then holding the pin with a pair of tweezers over the hole and pushing it back in with the chain tool. It does tend to compress the link so you have to turn it around afterwards to loosen the link back up.
No need for such complication... just put the pin into the outside plate by itself, then through into the inside plate, outside plate holds it in place. Then you're back to where you should be, and the chain tool does most of the hard work for you.0 -
lost_in_thought wrote:No need for such complication... just put the pin into the outside plate by itself, then through into the inside plate, outside plate holds it in place. Then you're back to where you should be, and the chain tool does most of the hard work for you.
*Eyes turn skywards*...
*Thought experiment occurs*...
*Minor epiphany*...
*Palm strikes forehead*.Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.0 -
davis wrote:lost_in_thought wrote:No need for such complication... just put the pin into the outside plate by itself, then through into the inside plate, outside plate holds it in place. Then you're back to where you should be, and the chain tool does most of the hard work for you.
*Eyes turn skywards*...
*Thought experiment occurs*...
*Minor epiphany*...
*Palm strikes forehead*.
I should add that you can use the tension of the pushing pin bit of the chain tool to hold the pin in place while you iron out any alignment issues.
EDIT: Suzyb, nah, it'll be fine.0