Cup and cone wheel bearings
I am doing up an old Carlton mixte frame ladies racer to turn into a commuter.
I have transferred over my 27' wheels and decided to true up the rear, which had a bit of wobble and a kink in radial trueness. I did all that and centred the wheel perfectly, then decided to repack the bearings.
One of the cones on the cassette side was pitted. I have replaced it with another, but it is longer and this has thrown the centre-ing of the wheel out.
I have been trying to find a cone of exactly the same size (no luck so far).
I was also thinking smaller smaller spacers would sort this. Any ideas on this? Do people just cut them for correct length or something?
I assume there is no reason why I can't use different length cones?
Another alternative would be to loosen the spokes and then re-dish the wheel for the new set-up. But that seems extreme - an unwise for a wheel that works fine at the moment.
I have transferred over my 27' wheels and decided to true up the rear, which had a bit of wobble and a kink in radial trueness. I did all that and centred the wheel perfectly, then decided to repack the bearings.
One of the cones on the cassette side was pitted. I have replaced it with another, but it is longer and this has thrown the centre-ing of the wheel out.
I have been trying to find a cone of exactly the same size (no luck so far).
I was also thinking smaller smaller spacers would sort this. Any ideas on this? Do people just cut them for correct length or something?
I assume there is no reason why I can't use different length cones?
Another alternative would be to loosen the spokes and then re-dish the wheel for the new set-up. But that seems extreme - an unwise for a wheel that works fine at the moment.
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Comments
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What are the dimensions of the old cone? I could have a rummage.0
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I have measured it at 12 mm long.0
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I'll have a rummage...Is it a QR or a solid axle?0
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Really kind of you, thanks, It's a QR.
Any reason why you can't mix cone lengths?0 -
No reason not to mix them but you must keep to the original OLD. The drive side cone also decides where the top sprocket is in relation to the drop-out. Not a problem if it has enough chain clearence and you only use one wheel.
No need to re-dish if it all clears OK. I have dished wheels biased towards the non drive side a little for better strength before and never noticed any difference riding.0 -
I have a cone that measures 12.35mm. Problem is that it is from a Raleigh solid axle which is a different thread than my Campy and Shimano QR wheels. If you think it is of any use, I'll pop it in the post for you. If not, I might be able to find a spacer to compensate for your larger cone.0
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Weejie54 wrote:I have a cone that measures 12.35mm. Problem is that it is from a Raleigh solid axle which is a different thread than my Campy and Shimano QR wheels. If you think it is of any use, I'll pop it in the post for you. If not, I might be able to find a spacer to compensate for your larger cone.
That's very generous offer. Thanks. I have sorted this and was being a bit dumb. I am not that practised at this and then forget what I did the last time ... familiar cycling tinkering story.
I had been doing this with the left cone locked tight. Once I loosed that I could just shift the cones to the right to align wheel in the frame. I only have two and a bit threads of axle on the right side, but it is enough to stay in place.
I am lucky too in that this wheel has a five speed freewheel which I put on with plenty of copper slip, so it comes off easily. Means I can see what I am doing and put the wheel on without the freewheel for fine tuning in situ.0