Rear hub repair

flateric
flateric Posts: 201
edited July 2010 in The workshop
Is it worth trying to fix a worn rear hub? at present it crunches when spun and you can see pitting on the surface the bearings roll on, now i reckon it could polish out but is it a viable option?
Bike one Dawes Acoma (heavily modified)
Bike two (trek) Lemond Etape (dusty and not ridden much)
Bike Three Claude Butler chinook, (freebee from
Freecycle, Being stripped and rebuilt
(is 3 too many bikes)

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    If you have pitting on the bearing surface on the hub (as opposed to the cone) then the hub has pretty much had it, you might find new balls/cones and some fresh grease will keep it going for a while, but time is limited I would say.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • flateric
    flateric Posts: 201
    If you have pitting on the bearing surface on the hub (as opposed to the cone) then the hub has pretty much had it, you might find new balls/cones and some fresh grease will keep it going for a while, but time is limited I would say.

    Simon

    that would be a shame, i paid nothing for it so dont really want to spend much on it!! Its a solid frame and my plan is a commuting hybrid that is not a big loss if it gets wrecked. might have to revise that if i need a new wheel set!!
    Bike one Dawes Acoma (heavily modified)
    Bike two (trek) Lemond Etape (dusty and not ridden much)
    Bike Three Claude Butler chinook, (freebee from
    Freecycle, Being stripped and rebuilt
    (is 3 too many bikes)
  • wgwarburton
    wgwarburton Posts: 1,863
    flateric wrote:
    If you have pitting on the bearing surface on the hub (as opposed to the cone) then the hub has pretty much had it, you might find new balls/cones and some fresh grease will keep it going for a while, but time is limited I would say.

    Simon

    that would be a shame, i paid nothing for it so dont really want to spend much on it!! Its a solid frame and my plan is a commuting hybrid that is not a big loss if it gets wrecked. might have to revise that if i need a new wheel set!!

    Seems an odd attitude to me- replace the hub and you have a usable bike for the price of the hub... If you';d spent #50 on the bike it wouldn't be any more valuable- just more expensive!!

    If the price of a new hub/wheel/wheelset means you end up with a viable bike for that cost then surely it's worth it. If the rest of the bike is worn out, too, then that's a different question.

    I think you should re-frame the question.

    Cheers,
    W.
  • flateric
    flateric Posts: 201
    Oh it will get a new wheel set, eventually, just dont have a spare pot of money!!! The bike is a claude butler chinook and the frame is sound. Only faults so far are needs a cassette and chain, new rear wheel, loose bottom bracxket, well worth repairing, just have to bodge it until funds allow to relace the wheels (cos if i am going to do i want to do it well)
    Bike one Dawes Acoma (heavily modified)
    Bike two (trek) Lemond Etape (dusty and not ridden much)
    Bike Three Claude Butler chinook, (freebee from
    Freecycle, Being stripped and rebuilt
    (is 3 too many bikes)
  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    So look on ebay for a cheap wheel that matched what you have apart from being OK!

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • wgwarburton
    wgwarburton Posts: 1,863
    flateric wrote:
    Oh it will get a new wheel set, eventually, just dont have a spare pot of money!!! The bike is a claude butler chinook and the frame is sound. Only faults so far are needs a cassette and chain, new rear wheel, loose bottom bracxket, well worth repairing, just have to bodge it until funds allow to relace the wheels (cos if i am going to do i want to do it well)

    OK- unless the pitting's really bad then just replace the bearings & live with it until you can get a new wheelset. New cones & bearings should be pretty cheap. Use plenty of grease... I wouldn't bother trying to polish it out, I don't think that would be productive, though others may have a better-informed view than I..?

    It'll run a bit roughly but probably keep going for a good while, as the Beginner said. For a commuting hack that should be something you can live with.

    Cheers,
    W.
  • flateric
    flateric Posts: 201
    Most likely will just run it with a crunchy hub. using my heavier winter hack at the mo, so no great rush. Might try and polish it smooth again though just to see if it works!
    Bike one Dawes Acoma (heavily modified)
    Bike two (trek) Lemond Etape (dusty and not ridden much)
    Bike Three Claude Butler chinook, (freebee from
    Freecycle, Being stripped and rebuilt
    (is 3 too many bikes)
  • supersonic
    supersonic Posts: 82,708
    Just replace the bearings - very cheap anyway.

    Then rub over the bearing surfaces with emmery paper to get rid of any outstanding lumps. Should eek a bit more life out of them.

    Rear hub bearings are usually 1/4 inch, nine per side.
  • flateric
    flateric Posts: 201
    More life obtained but need to consider new wheelset i think. Time to scan the sales!!!!
    Bike one Dawes Acoma (heavily modified)
    Bike two (trek) Lemond Etape (dusty and not ridden much)
    Bike Three Claude Butler chinook, (freebee from
    Freecycle, Being stripped and rebuilt
    (is 3 too many bikes)