Boardman Bikes & Cycle Maintenance

sc0tsman

Just finished a one day Intensive Cycle Maintenance course @ Edinburgh Bicycle Co-op

Really enjoyed it - learnt a lot

However, was less than happy with the state of my Bike

I bought a Boardman CX via C2W in February/March this year, and to be honest haven't been able to do a lot of miles (probably less than 200)

While working/checking out the bike today i found the following issues


1) Front Brake Cable Snapped - and had to be replaced (luckily just learnt how to!)
2) Front Gear Cable Casing Sheared (and needs to be replaced)

and Finally - and most worrying

3) Cassete is partially embedded into the alloy freehub - Guy taking the course said that the freehub will need to be replaced


Slightly peeved to say the least

Sc0tsman

pastryboy

When learning of the cost to replace a freehub from my LBS I decided it was more economical to buy a new wheel.

That said, there should be some sort of warranty for you.

supersonic

The bike should be checked regularly - you would have picked some of this up eariler if you had.

Luckily you know how to now. Over time many things will need adjusting and maintaining.

You might not have to replace the freehub - you can use a file on it. See Sheldon Browns pages on the subject.

Golden Rivet

I have a Boardman Pro CX - cant say I've seen any problems. Currently got around 200 miles on it.

What causes the cassette to embed itself in the freehub ?

always_tyred

Alloy freehubs will get bitten by the free rings of the cassette. Its normal.

Questions (1) - does the cassette come off and can you get it back on again? (2) - can you change gear okay?

Questions the mechanic might be asking (1) does it look brand spanking new? (2) would I be able to sell it? (3) Can I be absolutely sure, like 100%, that it will work perfectly, like absolutely flawlessly, if it's re-used (4) what does that thing do? (5) can I sell him a new one? (6) will my boss be mad if I don't try to sell him a new one?

Seriously - put the cassette back on and forget about it. Or take a photo, put it on flickr, link to it, let us look, let us tell you it will be fine, put it back on and forget about it.

sc0tsman

Always Tyred wrote:

Alloy freehubs will get bitten by the free rings of the cassette. Its normal.

Questions (1) - does the cassette come off and can you get it back on again? (2) - can you change gear okay?

1st 2 rings come off - none of the rest - as they are behind the embedded one

Gears work fine

Questions the mechanic might be asking (1) does it look brand spanking new? (2) would I be able to sell it? (3) Can I be absolutely sure, like 100%, that it will work perfectly, like absolutely flawlessly, if it's re-used (4) what does that thing do? (5) can I sell him a new one? (6) will my boss be mad if I don't try to sell him a new one?

Mechanic didnt' even try to sell me a new one - said immediately that it should be covered by warranty - and to get it resolved by Halfords

One thing he did say that concerned me was that if I didn't get it sorted, then the cog could continue to embed right in, and eventually wear a grove and just let that cog spin freely.


I'm going to find the original receipt and go back to halfords asap


Cheers

always_tyred

How is it not going to happen again with the same parts made of the same materials?

Did the mechanic suggest a cause or a solution? Or has he done no more than postpone for another 200 miles?

mudcovered

sc0tsman wrote:

1st 2 rings come off - none of the rest - as they are behind the embedded one

To remove assuming you have access to a single chain whip:

1. Put wheel back in frame and put chain on largest cog still on the wheel.
2. Put chain whip on cog that is embedded in cassette.
3. Use chain whip (rotating towards rear of bike) to free the embedded cog.

This is not unusual when you have steel cogs on an alloy freehub.

Mike

spasypaddy

you should see the state of my old freehub on my planet x wheels. ive used them for about 3 years and it is so cut its ridiculous. i have since upgraded my wheels to fulcrum racing 3s because i found them cheap not because of the freehub.

snailracer

Always Tyred wrote:

How is it not going to happen again with the same parts made of the same materials?

Did the mechanic suggest a cause or a solution? Or has he done no more than postpone for another 200 miles?

Steel + aluminium + water, results in corrosion.

A quick squirt of GT85 after riding in the rain will help chase water away from the cogs.

alfablue

Its not corrosion, it is often due to tall slotted 10 speed cassettes on short splined aluminium freehub bodies (as fitted by many wheel manufacturers). Solutions include for example, to get 10 speed only freehubs, steel freehubs (as per shimano), put pins or American Classic clips in cassette rings to sop movement, do cassette lockring up really tight, amongst others. Even short slotted cassettes may still start to chew, it isn't usually terminal though.

snailracer

alfablue wrote:

Its not corrosion, it is often due to tall slotted 10 speed cassettes on short splined aluminium freehub bodies (as fitted by many wheel manufacturers). Solutions include for example, to get 10 speed only freehubs, steel freehubs (as per shimano), put pins or American Classic clips in cassette rings to sop movement, do cassette lockring up really tight, amongst others. Even short slotted cassettes may still start to chew, it isn't usually terminal though.

Stress corrosion. Some hubs designs experience more stress, which promotes it.

Ben6899

How come you didn't realise your brake cable was snapped? Anyway, I'm glad you've fixed it before you found out the hard way!

As for the freehub and cassette problem, you can mitigate this to an extent by making sure the lockring is torqued up to the required amount. It'll be between 40- and 50Nm and it will say on the ring itself.

supersonic

As has been mentioned before, many alloy hubs scar a little, and most of the time it is of little consequence. If you are worried, put some pics up for us too look at.