cycle to work £1k budget what to buy ?

hubba
hubba Posts: 238
edited June 2010 in Road buying advice
I would prefer a road bike where i can get out for around 2 - 4 hours without getting off the bike and feeling like i can't move, suggestions by Local Bike Shops are to get a sport bike fitting setup which puts a 1/3 of my weight over the saddle/ pedals & bars.

my next thing is what to get from halfords which is where the cycle to work scheme is only option.

by reading up a little the boardman comp team carbon looks good but not sure if it's a comfort machine for a four hour ride ? or am i being silly and sohuld just go buy it ?..

i don't want to spend £1k and get it really wrong.

halfords also do special order on selected manufactures like Kiensis, kona, conor, rocky moutain, salsa, eddy merckx.

people rave about the tk2 but it don't look nothing special to me quite bland if anything, i like the eddy merckx but it's over the 1k budget and can't get it..

anyway look forward to anyone with options and some assurance that i'm doing the right thing..
Cube Sl Road for sale
wanted Steel or titanium Touring / audax / sportif frame or complete bike.

Comments

  • STEFANOS4784
    STEFANOS4784 Posts: 4,109
    hubba wrote:
    I would prefer a road bike where i can get out for around 2 - 4 hours without getting off the bike and feeling like i can't move.


    An electric bike. Failing that check out the hundreds of other threads almost identical to this for some good tips to whittle down your choices a bit more :)
  • Squillinossett
    Squillinossett Posts: 1,678
    Have a look at my Boardman carbon, I just did 310 miles over 3 days on it and it was super comfey.

    Plus I have my stem in the down position, you could have it as a riser stem if you needed too.
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    Hang on - are you getting some kind of anti gravity bike if only 1/3 of your weight is supported ?

    Do you mean 1/3 on the bars and 2/3 on your bum ?

    I'd be v happy with the boardman - excellent reviews - nice frame - perfect. Dont go too aggressive with the height of the bars, and dont go mad with the PSI and it should be perfectly comfy. My carbon bike is loads comfier than my steel or alu bikes, and I think the Boardman is in the same vein. Its not like one of the ultra stiff TT jobbies that are just designed for max power and to be sufferable for an hour of racing.
  • DiabloJoe
    DiabloJoe Posts: 12
    Im Currnetly looking for a road bike as well, C2W with Halfords, it can be used in other shops other then Halfords, there website shows
    visit Cycle Republic, Condor, On Your Bike or Pearsons: these are each associates of the Halfords Cycle2Work scheme and will accept you letter of collection in store

    Also confirmed that Leisure Lakes Bikes accept them in there local shops.

    Im looking at Boardman (Rival) too also Trek 2.1 (105) and CAAD8 (105) that fall into the 1k price range. Ive also seen people mention Orbea aqua t105 but im not sure if that can be special order via Halfords Special order line. I wanted a CAAD9 but there out of stock :S
    Boardman Hybrid Pro 2009
    Cannondale CAAD 8 105 Compact 2010
  • unixnerd
    unixnerd Posts: 2,864
    Im looking at Boardman (Rival) too also Trek 2.1 (105) and CAAD8 (105)

    I have a CAAD5 with 105 and love it to bits. Superbly made and really comfy even on long rides :-) Cannondale make some of the best alloy frames out there and 105 is a really nice groupset.
    http://www.strathspey.co.uk - Quality Binoculars at a Sensible Price.
    Specialized Roubaix SL3 Expert 2012, Cannondale CAAD5,
    Marin Mount Vision (1997), Edinburgh Country tourer, 3 cats!
  • hubba
    hubba Posts: 238
    hubba wrote:
    I would prefer a road bike where i can get out for around 2 - 4 hours without getting off the bike and feeling like i can't move.

    an electric bike. Failing that check out the hundreds of other threads almost identical to his for some good tips to whittle down your choices a bit more :)

    i think i should be clearer it's not the i can't pedal but more of i'm too stiff in the back to move kinda thing, i do a couple of group mtb rides a week for three hours a time.
    cougie wrote:
    Hang on - are you getting some kind of anti gravity bike if only 1/3 of your weight is supported ?

    Do you mean 1/3 on the bars and 2/3 on your bum ?

    I'd be v happy with the boardman - excellent reviews - nice frame - perfect. Dont go too aggressive with the height of the bars, and dont go mad with the PSI and it should be perfectly comfy. My carbon bike is loads comfier than my steel or alu bikes, and I think the Boardman is in the same vein. Its not like one of the ultra stiff TT jobbies that are just designed for max power and to be sufferable for an hour of racing.
    yes i mean what your saying in that 1/3 of weight over bars then another 1/3 over the pedals and last 1/3 over the saddle.
    Cube Sl Road for sale
    wanted Steel or titanium Touring / audax / sportif frame or complete bike.
  • hubba
    hubba Posts: 238
    Have a look at my Boardman carbon, I just did 310 miles over 3 days on it and it was super comfey.

    Plus I have my stem in the down position, you could have it as a riser stem if you needed too.

    thanks it's just i had read somewhere that the boardmen range were not the best bikes for long haul cycling, hence my concerns if i decide to cycle for any longer periods that i may suffer, and for £1k i'd atleast expect that i could sit on the bike for as long as i wanted or as long as the legs would cycle me without suffering strong pains in the back or getting really numb hands etc...

    the last thing i'd like to add is that the bike setup for the medium frame has a 110 length stem, the bike setup guide stated 120 stem, but then again the boardman range has only a seat tube frame length of 530mm c-c, my specs were 560mm c-c so don't know how that differs the stem length ?, anyone technical who could advise ??., do i just stick with the 110 on medium frame or go with the bike setup and change it for a 120mm ?, all this newbiw questions sorry...
    Cube Sl Road for sale
    wanted Steel or titanium Touring / audax / sportif frame or complete bike.
  • +paul
    +paul Posts: 60
    I have just gone through the same process - you will find details of bikes recommended to me in the "Alternative to Ribble winter bike" thread. I ended up getting the TK2, and I am very pleased with it. In my eyes it looks good (not too overstated), is very comfortable and quick. As well as commuting on it, I will be spending time doing Audaxed and Sportives on it.

    One word of advice - as soon as you decide what you want, order it and place a deposit. This will fix the price while you go through the process of getting the voucher.
  • I have the Boardman carbon and love it, been out for numerous rides of 4 + hours with no problems. It will take a little tinkering to get it to the exact position that is comfortable for you (as will every bike), and I changed the saddle, but that was my choice, and I turned the stem over so the bars were slightly higher.

    All in ll a great bike for the money, one of the few at this price range to get 10/10 in C+. Don't thin you'll be disappointed if you did decide to get it.
    Limited Edition Boardman Team Carbon No. 448
    Boardman MTB Team
  • cougie
    cougie Posts: 22,512
    Boardman is fine for long rides - I use my carbon bike regularly for 6 hour + rides. Not a problem !
  • hubba
    hubba Posts: 238
    many thanks everyone for the responses, i'll have a quick browse over the ribble winter bike thread but i think i'm 80% sure i'll go with the boardman unless somthing jumps out at me..

    in general from what i'm reading i can't go that wrong with the boarman apart from saddle change and possibly bar tape.
    Cube Sl Road for sale
    wanted Steel or titanium Touring / audax / sportif frame or complete bike.
  • spursn17
    spursn17 Posts: 284
    hubba wrote:
    many thanks everyone for the responses, i'll have a quick browse over the ribble winter bike thread but i think i'm 80% sure i'll go with the boardman unless somthing jumps out at me..

    in general from what i'm reading i can't go that wrong with the boarman apart from saddle change and possibly bar tape.

    I changed the sadlle on mine, but that is different for everyone, you may like the Boardman saddle. My bar tape is stil on after 2500 miles.

    The only thing I would definately change is the brake blocks, a set of 'Swisstop Greens' makes a world of difference to the stopping power.
  • hubba
    hubba Posts: 238
    spursn17 wrote:
    hubba wrote:
    many thanks everyone for the responses, i'll have a quick browse over the ribble winter bike thread but i think i'm 80% sure i'll go with the boardman unless somthing jumps out at me..

    in general from what i'm reading i can't go that wrong with the boarman apart from saddle change and possibly bar tape.

    I changed the sadlle on mine, but that is different for everyone, you may like the Boardman saddle. My bar tape is stil on after 2500 miles.

    The only thing I would definitely change is the brake blocks, a set of 'Swisstop Greens' makes a world of difference to the stopping power.

    thanks after reading over the thread i'm still set on the boardman and i'll take note surrounding the brake block upgrades, will find a set to replace once i have the bike.., just waiting for work to sort out the paperwork then i'm off down the shop to settle on the date for picking it up..
    Cube Sl Road for sale
    wanted Steel or titanium Touring / audax / sportif frame or complete bike.
  • rake
    rake Posts: 3,204
    spursn17 wrote:
    hubba wrote:
    many thanks everyone for the responses, i'll have a quick browse over the ribble winter bike thread but i think i'm 80% sure i'll go with the boardman unless somthing jumps out at me..

    in general from what i'm reading i can't go that wrong with the boarman apart from saddle change and possibly bar tape.

    I changed the sadlle on mine, but that is different for everyone, you may like the Boardman saddle. My bar tape is stil on after 2500 miles.

    The only thing I would definitely change is the brake blocks, a set of 'Swisstop Greens' makes a world of difference to the stopping power.
    i left the seat seems ok to me. swapped the bar tape as its very thin stock, pads are a definate swap makes a world of difference.
    with the stem id try it first. the large with 120mm is pleanty long enough for me, thinking of trying a 110mm i have quite a large brop to the bars. i found the 350 mm seat post quite short for large frame. i like a little more than minimum insertion with a carbon frame.
    when i look at bikes costing quite a lot more i get a warm feeling, i really cant see how they are better, usually heavier sometimes lower spec and just not looking as simple and neat design. i love the shape of the straight wide but narrow forks with a slight inward curve. frame has pleanty of meat where its needed quick bursts of speed.
  • hubba
    hubba Posts: 238
    rake wrote:
    spursn17 wrote:
    hubba wrote:
    many thanks everyone for the responses, i'll have a quick browse over the ribble winter bike thread but i think i'm 80% sure i'll go with the boardman unless somthing jumps out at me..

    in general from what i'm reading i can't go that wrong with the boarman apart from saddle change and possibly bar tape.

    I changed the sadlle on mine, but that is different for everyone, you may like the Boardman saddle. My bar tape is stil on after 2500 miles.

    The only thing I would definitely change is the brake blocks, a set of 'Swisstop Greens' makes a world of difference to the stopping power.
    i left the seat seems ok to me. swapped the bar tape as its very thin stock, pads are a definate swap makes a world of difference.
    with the stem id try it first. the large with 120mm is pleanty long enough for me, thinking of trying a 110mm i have quite a large brop to the bars. i found the 350 mm seat post quite short for large frame. i like a little more than minimum insertion with a carbon frame.
    when i look at bikes costing quite a lot more i get a warm feeling, i really cant see how they are better, usually heavier sometimes lower spec and just not looking as simple and neat design. i love the shape of the straight wide but narrow forks with a slight inward curve. frame has pleanty of meat where its needed quick bursts of speed.
    thanks for the info, it seems the weak point on these bikes then are the brakes, whats a simple upgrade that will be compatible with the sram rival brake levers ?. without breaking the bank (most bike components these days are in multiples of £100 !!!...
    Cube Sl Road for sale
    wanted Steel or titanium Touring / audax / sportif frame or complete bike.
  • rake
    rake Posts: 3,204
    i dont think the brakes are too bad with different pads. its more poor pads so no need to buy expensive calipers, you can always try the pads and see what you think, i noticed a big difference, if your still not happy you can still reuse the new pads. i got coolstop dura type. they are cartridge pads of the shimano fitting, which fit the standars holders that come with the bike. another top line pad is the swisstop green but quite a bit more expensive, some say there isnt much difference from coolstop.
    these are they top right of page.
    http://www.wiggle.co.uk/c/cycle/7/Brake_Pads_-_Rim/
    they come in dual compound as well, half orange half black which i have on mine.
    coolstop are the most recommended pad on this site. pretty low wheel rim wear as well which is important.
  • rake
    rake Posts: 3,204
    just to clarify i clicked my link and the pads have moved from top right to top left of page. they are the 'koolstop dura ace, ultegra,105 pair of cartridge inserts' that fit.