Skewer for bicycle trailers
ndru
Posts: 382
Hi all
I have just bought the Adventure AT3 for my son. This trailer attaches to the bike with the skewer. Now for me it's a little bit of a pain to remove your wheel every time you want to attach the trailer. Have you ever heard about any type of skewer that could speed up the process? I was thinking of a sort of a skewer in a skewer - the outer shell would be the skewer for the wheel, while inside there would be another one for the trailer.
Anyway - any ideas?
I have just bought the Adventure AT3 for my son. This trailer attaches to the bike with the skewer. Now for me it's a little bit of a pain to remove your wheel every time you want to attach the trailer. Have you ever heard about any type of skewer that could speed up the process? I was thinking of a sort of a skewer in a skewer - the outer shell would be the skewer for the wheel, while inside there would be another one for the trailer.
Anyway - any ideas?
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Comments
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I had the same trailer - the black bracket stays attached to the bike the whole time - clamp it on tight with the quick release skewer.
The trailer attaches to this bracket using the silver locking pin. Just unhitch here when you want to leave the trailer behind.
You can get extra brackets (the black bits) from wiggle here:
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/cycle/7/Adven ... 360015442/
We got a couple and left them attached to different bikes to make things easier. Depending on your bike, you might want to get slightly longer skewers so you can be sure the nut is fully threaded on the other side. We got Halo Porkies XL, which work well. And look nice.[/url]0 -
Thanks Proteus. It works as you said- differently from what I thought it would. My skewer turned out to be long enough, but the problem now is that I can either tighten it really hard and make my wheel stop turning altogether, or I can do it normally and watch the coupling rotate if I go over a curb. Any clues as to how to fix it?0
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sounds like the hub needs a service. the cones and lock rings are lose causing the bearings to be compressed creating friction and stopping the wheel."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
Yeah. I agree with Nick. There's the cones that tighten in on the bearings, which allow your wheels to spin. Then there's the skewer outside of that.
Can you post a pic?Commute - MASI Souville3 | Road/CX - MASI Speciale CX | Family - 80s ugly | Utility - Cargobike0 -
What I meant was - if the skewer is tightened to much obviously it will stop the hub from turning, regardless of the quality of the hub ant its state of repair (and it's a 2 month old bicycle we are talking about ). The problem is the bracket rotates when the arm of the trailer acts as a long lever for instance when going over a speed bump.0
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ndru wrote:What I meant was - if the skewer is tightened to much obviously it will stop the hub from turning, regardless of the quality of the hub ant its state of repair
no it should not if the hub is correctly set up."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0 -
So what you're saying is - overtightening the quickrelease shouldn't stop the wheel from turning if the hub is set up correctly? Can you please explain how, because in this case I'll need to pay Decathlon a quick visit. Thanks.0
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Correct. The two should not impinge upon each other.
Get thee to an LBS.Commute - MASI Souville3 | Road/CX - MASI Speciale CX | Family - 80s ugly | Utility - Cargobike0 -
when set up correctly nothing in the above should move (except as described in this.
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cone-adjustment.html but the movement is minimal and only takes a tad of play out of the bearings."Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
Parktools :?:SheldonBrown0