Help/advice needed on brake/frame.
Swapping stuff over, and decided to use an Avid Arch Rival rear brake on a Norco Bigfoot.
Tried to remove the V-brake blanks, but as they were rubber, allen key just kept turning.
So, took a small knife to them, thinking it would be just a cover.
ERM...No! Rubber blanks had metal threads. DOH!
Now I can't get the freaking things out as they are threaded in.
ANSWER; Drill em out???
Or go back to Discs, but having put stuff on the Mrs bike, I'd need new rear disc hub, disc brake etc.
Gonna be expensive unless "Captain Mechanical" turns up...
Are you there, Capt?!
Tried to remove the V-brake blanks, but as they were rubber, allen key just kept turning.
So, took a small knife to them, thinking it would be just a cover.
ERM...No! Rubber blanks had metal threads. DOH!
Now I can't get the freaking things out as they are threaded in.
ANSWER; Drill em out???
Or go back to Discs, but having put stuff on the Mrs bike, I'd need new rear disc hub, disc brake etc.
Gonna be expensive unless "Captain Mechanical" turns up...
Are you there, Capt?!
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Comments
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Get some stud / thread extractors - they have a lefthand helix that will grip the inserts as you try to unscrew:
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/20084/Van ... %208%20Pc#Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0 -
STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that either snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use, or expands the offending broken stud so tight into its parent part that removal is made impossible.
Be warned....
You need a lot of care to drill them out - you need to drill pretty well exactly down the axis of the screw, using progressively larger drills until you can collapse the remains of the screw into the hole. Ideally use left-handed drills - but they're not the kind of thing most people have. Apply penetrating oil to help removal as a first stage - and leave pleanty of time for it to soak in.0