Sheared bolt

asprilla
asprilla Posts: 8,440
edited June 2010 in The workshop
Had a mishap with my bars his morning; they shited slightly when I hit a pothole on the way to work. I stopped to adjust them and sheared one of the facing plate bolts in the stem.

First question; it's sheared flush with the stem so what are my options, if any, for getting it out?

Second question; can anyone recommend a good but cheap torque wrench?


Cheers!
Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
Sun - Cervelo R3
Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX

Comments

  • The Rookie
    The Rookie Posts: 27,812
    Spark erosion, drill and tap, wind through if its not a blind hole.....

    Spark erosion is the best way with steel in alloy, but probably costs more than a new stem.

    Drilling a steel bolt out of alloy is a pain, the alloy is softer so the drill wants to go into the alloy not through the steel, however it is possible and I have drilled a snapped bottle cage bolt out of an allloy frame and then retapped it in the past, for that I actually used a dremel and a diamond tipped tile drill to gradually remove the bolt but it took about 2 hours for a little M5!

    If its not a blind hole you can often spin it right through......

    All told probably easier to buy a new stem I'm afraid.

    Simon
    Currently riding a Whyte T130C, X0 drivetrain, Magura Trail brakes converted to mixed wheel size (homebuilt wheels) with 140mm Fox 34 Rhythm and RP23 suspension. 12.2Kg.
  • antfly
    antfly Posts: 3,276
    Asprilla wrote:

    Second question; can anyone recommend a good but cheap torque wrench?


    Cheers!
    Ritchey torque key, it`s meant for bars and stuff.
    Smarter than the average bear.
  • davis
    davis Posts: 2,506
    Broken screw extractor? One of them things with the left-handed thread.

    You'd need to drill a really tiny pilot hole in the screw first, which might be tricky. Maybe with a left-handed drill bit too...
    Sometimes parts break. Sometimes you crash. Sometimes it’s your fault.