Michellin PRO3's v Bontrager Race X Lite, 700x23c

gareth2134
gareth2134 Posts: 198
edited March 2013 in Road beginners
Hi I have a question about tyre robustness. My friend has just bought the Mich Pro 3's because he's heard their the best tyres at the minute for robustness.

I however have the bontrager race x lites and since he has had them he has had 2 puntures and I havnt had any since I have had the bike. I was going to buy some for my bike but I'm wondering if it's worth it as these seem to be fine and never had a flat.

I do understand it's just luck but he drove over a pot hole and got one puncture and I have driven over a few and wheel has been fine so the question really is would it be worth changing from mine to the PRO 3's

Comments

  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,666
    gareth2134 wrote:
    Hi I have a question about tyre robustness. My friend has just bought the Mich Pro 3's because he's heard their the best tyres at the minute for robustness.

    I however have the bontrager race x lites and since he has had them he has had 2 puntures and I havnt had any since I have had the bike. I was going to buy some for my bike but I'm wondering if it's worth it as these seem to be fine and never had a flat.

    I do understand it's just luck but he drove over a pot hole and got one puncture and I have driven over a few and wheel has been fine so the question really is would it be worth changing from mine to the PRO 3's

    Where did he hear that Pro3 Races were best for robustness?

    Continental GP 4 seasons / ultra gatorskins are better for robustness.
    In fact loads of cheaper winter tyres are better for robustness.

    Pro3Race are, indeed, race tyres and as such compromise puncture protection for weight and rolling resistance...

    As do the Bontrager Race X Lights...
  • gareth2134
    gareth2134 Posts: 198
    NapoleonD wrote:
    gareth2134 wrote:
    Hi I have a question about tyre robustness. My friend has just bought the Mich Pro 3's because he's heard their the best tyres at the minute for robustness.

    I however have the bontrager race x lites and since he has had them he has had 2 puntures and I havnt had any since I have had the bike. I was going to buy some for my bike but I'm wondering if it's worth it as these seem to be fine and never had a flat.

    I do understand it's just luck but he drove over a pot hole and got one puncture and I have driven over a few and wheel has been fine so the question really is would it be worth changing from mine to the PRO 3's

    Where did he hear that Pro3 Races were best for robustness?

    Continental GP 4 seasons / ultra gatorskins are better for robustness.
    In fact loads of cheaper winter tyres are better for robustness.

    Pro3Race are, indeed, race tyres and as such compromise puncture protection for weight and rolling resistance...

    As do the Bontrager Race X Lights...

    I'm not sure where he had heard it but it was enough to make him go out and buy them so I am really surprised to hear that. Makes sense though that if something is to be lighter then padding must be removed in order to give it the rolling pace which in turn reduses the protection and makes it easier to get a flat.

    Well knowing that now actually helps, but as for the pair matching what would be your preference the Pro 3 or the Bontrager.

    I got the bontrager standard on my trek 4.9 so I presumbed would be good but if theirs something better then I would consider swapping.

    Thanks for info
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,666
    If puncture protection is high on your priorities and you still want half decent performance then I would go with the Continental Ultra Gatorskins...

    http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-t ... ONTTYRF200

    (The wire bead version is cheaper but heavier...)
  • sheffsimon
    sheffsimon Posts: 1,282
    Raced last year on Pro 3's and they are good....but now using Schwalbe Ultremo R1's, and I think they are better IMO. As Nap D has said, they are racing tyres, so dont expect robustness, athough only had 1 puncture last year on Pro 3 and only this on Ultremos.
  • kingrollo
    kingrollo Posts: 3,198
    The PR3 is an awesome tyre - worth the cash - just for the experience - the drawbacks, as you are finding out are puncture resistance ....and they don't last much beyond 2k miles. I have just ordered some mich kryliion as they are supposed to be a good compromise ...and CRC have them at 20 gbp at the moment
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,666
    I've tried PR3, no better than anything else similar out there TBH (such as Conti GP4000, Bontrager Race X Light etc). Then there are Vittorias which are something else. Veloflex are an interesting proposition too.

    But Veloflex and Vittoria are more expensive.
  • Monty Dog
    Monty Dog Posts: 20,614
    The adage is that for tyres you want grip, light weight and puncture resistance - just that you have to settle for two, not all three. Race tyres, regardless of brand all offer poor puncture resistance because in order to keep the tyres grippy and flexible, you have to remove the protective layers. Michelin Krylions and Vredestein Fortezza offer near race performance but are durable enough for all-year use IME. GP 4Seasons are tough, but feel dead and Gatorskins are laughable - like many Conti tyres, there are far too susceptible to cuts IME. I presently have about 10 pair of wheels running a wide range of tyres, so get plenty of opportunity to test them.
    Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..
  • gareth2134
    gareth2134 Posts: 198
    Monty Dog wrote:
    The adage is that for tyres you want grip, light weight and puncture resistance - just that you have to settle for two, not all three. Race tyres, regardless of brand all offer poor puncture resistance because in order to keep the tyres grippy and flexible, you have to remove the protective layers. Michelin Krylions and Vredestein Fortezza offer near race performance but are durable enough for all-year use IME. GP 4Seasons are tough, but feel dead and Gatorskins are laughable - like many Conti tyres, there are far too susceptible to cuts IME. I presently have about 10 pair of wheels running a wide range of tyres, so get plenty of opportunity to test them.

    interesting will look into that, i prefer all round tyres so not bothering changing them all the time unless I was to race or go and do a TT which up until now I have never done before.

    I have heard you are prone to punctures more in the rain is this true and if so why?
  • ascurrell
    ascurrell Posts: 1,739
    I've a pair of new / unused Hutchinson Fusion Long Distance Tyres for sale, read below from an american test / report on them. Don' have no need for them at moment as my Fusion 2 are serving me fine. I know this isn't the for sale category but thought I would throw these tyres in the mix from the original question.

    Hutchinson
    Fusion Long Distance
    The Fusion Long Distance tyre shares many of the same attributes with its colorful cousins in terms of construction, but with a few more grams of total weight. This additional weight is where the Long Distance gets its name, with an added anti-puncture aramid layer beneath the tread that Hutchinson promises will give "an exceptional resistance to wear and punctures."

    With this added layer comes a slightly harder ride, but the cornering and rolling resistance was still comparable to other high-end tyres. While I used these tyres for mostly training, I took them out for some fast training rides and a couple of criteriums, and was happy with their performance. Compared to the Silver, the attributes of cornering and comfort were about ninety percent.

    Most of all, these tyres are durable, showing very few signs of wear after many miles of riding on less-than-ideal training surfaces. Only after more than 1,900km of training did I take these out on the race course, and I felt as comfortable with them as I did when I first wrapped them around my wheels.

    Sizes: 700 X 23, 700 x 25
    Weight: 230 g (250 for 700 x 25)
    Colors: Grey/black

    Conclusion
    These tyres are a nice match for each other, with the Fusion Comp Long Distance giving you a perfect training tyre and the Fusion Comp Silver (or other color to match your kit) serving well as a race day tyre. Taking a look at price, the tyres are right in the middle of range with Hutchinson suggesting US$50 per tyre, but some quick research turns up 'street prices' around US$40-45. If you cannot afford to drop $180-200 for tyres, or do not have separate race and training wheels, then I suggest the Fusion Comp Long Distance for its durability combined with Hutchinson's well-known cornering and rolling reputation.

    Pro: Great cornering and comfort, distance tyre lasts
    Con: Quicker wear on the race tyres, harder ride on distance version
    More information: tyres.hutchinson.fr
    Cyclingnews rating: 4.5
  • ADIHEAD
    ADIHEAD Posts: 575
    Pro race 3's are fragile and the only tyre I've ever regularly punctured on :( Having said that, it's always in the rain. Wet roads make a difference as thorns, grit etc get washed into the road and can then stick to the tyre easier. They're ok as a race tyre though but not necessarily the best. I think there was a misleading Cycling Plus review a while ago so perhaps that was where your mate got the info from, as I did and found out the truth the hard way :roll:

    If you get on ok with the Bonty's and have a Trek bike I'd guess? Keep using them. Otherwise, I love Vittoria's. If you go onto their website there is a tyre chooser facility to help you pick a good compromise.

    For all round use though the Rubino pro's are great. I've a pair of Diamante's also but not put them on yet. I've also a set of Conti GP4's and they do indeed feel dead, but don't puncture. I find Gatorskins booring but I only punctured twice over the 3 winters I used them for, both times on worn tyres. To be honest I never found they cut, maybe I'm not fast enough to damage them hey? :lol:
  • Lady Venom
    Lady Venom Posts: 213
    Thread jack - need some new shoes for mine, I do a lot of riding on poor roads e.g. horribly lumpy not smooth in the slightest country lanes/A roads. I want something fast but also robust - was looking at the Open Paves - are they ideal? I fancied something super fast such as Pro 3s however I can see them being eaten alive by the roads I cycle on.

    Just got back on the bike after 3 months 'away' - hadn't realised how much I'd missed it! Got my first tri in a month as well; best get training! Nothing like a quick 20miles to blow away the cob webs... and leave me saddle sore!
  • ascurrell
    ascurrell Posts: 1,739
    Ladyvenom, you have pm.
  • giant_man
    giant_man Posts: 6,878
    I don't understand this theory - and practice obviously - over PR3s being fragile and easy to cut up. I have always found the opposite - excellent tyres that I use all year round. Krylion carbon's also are excellent, and of course not being an all out race tyre, are great for a training tyre.

    But both excellent tyres imo.
  • Mad Roadie
    Mad Roadie Posts: 710
    i suffered 2 tube failures and a cut tyre wall on saturday on my Pro Race 3's - yes they are fragile, but then that's a sacrifice because i find them faster than Schwable or similar ... and I need all the help I can get

    my first big failure in 18 months, so they are not that bad, and apparently I did hit a dreaded pot hole - so anything may have failed in the circumstance.

    so for me - it will be a new PR3 going back on
  • simon_e
    simon_e Posts: 1,707
    Monty Dog wrote:
    The adage is that for tyres you want grip, light weight and puncture resistance - just that you have to settle for two, not all three. Race tyres, regardless of brand all offer poor puncture resistance because in order to keep the tyres grippy and flexible, you have to remove the protective layers.
    +1.

    I found Vittoria Rubino Pro II to be good tyres, and fitted 25mm Bontrager Race X Lite hardcase tyres (250g each) earlier this year. They roll nicely and have so far resisted any deflations.

    Previously I ran 28mm Bontrager Race Lite Hardcases. A bit heavy at 350g but tough as they come and don't wear much, they shrugged off the thorns and glass I encountered in 3,000+ miles of year-round commuting and general riding.
    Aspire not to have more, but to be more.
  • lastwords
    lastwords Posts: 304
    I reckon i have done about 800miles on my pro 3's without a punture or any other problem tbh and i have ridden in the rain with them and on some very poor roads.
  • ride_whenever
    ride_whenever Posts: 13,279
    The only time i got a puncture on my pro3 was when i accidentally went off-road at dorney and a flint went through the tyre.

    Nothing has punctured my new 20mm ones but i'd imagine 150psi has something to do with that...
  • TommyEss
    TommyEss Posts: 1,855
    NapoleonD wrote:
    If puncture protection is high on your priorities and you still want half decent performance then I would go with the Continental Ultra Gatorskins...

    http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-t ... ONTTYRF200

    (The wire bead version is cheaper but heavier...)

    And if you want puncture protection with very decent performance, look to the Continental GP4000 or GP4000S.
    Cannondale Synapse 105, Giant Defy 3, Giant Omnium, Giant Trance X2, EMC R1.0, Ridgeback Platinum, On One Il Pompino...
  • I was running Bontrager R3's and absolutely killed the tyre on my first 85km ride on them. They are super quick but paper thin. So much for my friends at Bontrager never compromising quality for weight savings. I then put the X Lite hard case tyres on and they are the complete opposite, extremely slow but almost bullet proof. I need to find a balance! Hard to believe but I'd say the X Lites have slowed me down a good 25%.
  • CiB
    CiB Posts: 6,098
    Since I started running on Pro 3s 2 or 3 years ago my puncture count has fallen dramatically. When I switched to a different tyre (came with the wheels as part of the deal) I was having flats every time I went out. Back on Pro 3s and no problems.

    This is a rural 20-mile commute and weekend rides, on a mix of main roads and quiet country lanes. I'm happy with Pro 3s in my real-world experience of them.

    Unless you can replicate every aspect of a puncture comparing them is pointless. He hit a pot-hole and punctured, you did but were ok? Was it the same hole? Same speed? Same part of the hole that you hit? Speed, tyre pressure, your own body weights, was he on the drops and you on the hoods with bars unweighted? Etc etc etc. With so many variables it's not realistic to compare two tyres that way.
  • bjl
    bjl Posts: 353
    I like Pro Race 3's , think they offer pretty good grip in the wet and at £19 each at Planet X are excellent value , just bought a pair , although was tempted by Planet X 's new offering , PXT Rage , £15 or £18 each , thought they looked a bit like the Michelins ,anyone tried them yet?
  • secretsam
    secretsam Posts: 5,120
    Pro Race 3s are ace

    Bontranger = Trek = Lance-the-ultimate-Bell-End therefore cack

    End of

    It's just a hill. Get over it.
  • ADIHEAD
    ADIHEAD Posts: 575
    Seriously, Pro3's were not durable enough, hence why the Pro4's were made tougher. Buy the Pro4 race, the rear will wear out fairly quick though compared to a training tyre. The Pro4 endurance is another option if you can sacrifice some speed for durability. The Conti GP4000S is probably the toughest 'Race tyre' though. I'd be riding them but I couldn't ride an all black tyre and don't like the graphics:D