105 Front Shifter Question
Hi all.
I have recently bought a 2nd hand 2009 bike with a 105 Compact Groupset and I have a question. This is my first road bike and my first forray into indexed gears...
In terms of the right shifter, it's brilliant, everything is smooth and effortless.
the left (front) shifter is causing me some issues. On my first ride out I got stuck on the big ring and the shifter wouldn't budge. I had to disconnect the front derailleur and fiddle with it until I could use both the large and small rings again.
Since doing this however, it does take a fairly large amount of effort to shift the front derailleur, especially when releasing tension, I can feel a large amount of tension in the cable. Is this normal?
Also, I notice the 105 is a triple shifter (I am assuming this is true, as it can shift to 3 positions) yet my chainset is a compact. How does this usually work? Currently I am using the 1st and 3rd positions when in large/small chainrings.
Any help appreciated!
I have recently bought a 2nd hand 2009 bike with a 105 Compact Groupset and I have a question. This is my first road bike and my first forray into indexed gears...
In terms of the right shifter, it's brilliant, everything is smooth and effortless.
the left (front) shifter is causing me some issues. On my first ride out I got stuck on the big ring and the shifter wouldn't budge. I had to disconnect the front derailleur and fiddle with it until I could use both the large and small rings again.
Since doing this however, it does take a fairly large amount of effort to shift the front derailleur, especially when releasing tension, I can feel a large amount of tension in the cable. Is this normal?
Also, I notice the 105 is a triple shifter (I am assuming this is true, as it can shift to 3 positions) yet my chainset is a compact. How does this usually work? Currently I am using the 1st and 3rd positions when in large/small chainrings.
Any help appreciated!
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Comments
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Not sure about the tension issue, but the second position on your left-hand shifter is for trimming the front derailleur (to prevent chain rub). You just have to remember to shift two clicks!0
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I've had a word with my LBS and he told me the shifter is for both double and tripple c/ring set ups and if you're not careful it's possible for rhe shifter mechanism to break. He said to bring it in and would try and get me a replacement under warranty.
I've got a similar problem on one of my bikes.Tail end Charlie
The above post may contain traces of sarcasm or/and bullsh*t.0 -
There was a problem with a lot of those shifters for some reason. Mine died the day after I got my bike - sounds like yours. Went stiff and wouldn't change down from the big ring.
I had mine replaced under warranty and it's been perfect since.I'm left handed, if that matters.0 -
Yeah those shifters have a fault, poorly designed, and will eventually break.
Mine broke within 2 months, by the time the warranty replacement turned up 6 weeks later my bike had Campag on it.
Interesting that the replacements had a tag on saying that if you forcefully shift they will break...for a £200 component that is meant to represent a race worthy group Shimano should have redesigned them much sooner.
Now SRAM are on the scene, as well as Campag, I cant imagine returning to buy these overpriced pieces of Shimano junk.0 -
Great......0
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Sorry Bartolli, don't get too glum!
It seems that every generation of STI levers comes out with some sort of fault. With the old 9sp the early ultegra ones broke by the bucket load, the 10sp 105 ones are seemingly the weak link this time around.
If you can get a warranty replacement, ask for Ultegra (double) ones, i've heard on a few occasions when press Shimano have upgraded them (some people report sending back 2/3 sets of 105s...so maybe this is when they'll upgrade). Alternatively if they refuse you'd have to buy some more shimano STIs...which personally I refused to do, after they acused me of installing them incorrectly.
There are various ways in which you can make Campag levers work with a all shimano setup, which are pretty cheap.0 -
Oh well, you win some you lose some I guess.
I'm just taking solace in the fact that mine isn't broken and will shift - just take a little bit of effort. I'm assuming moving the left shifter always takes more effort than the right? But how much? May take it into LBS see if they can tweak it a bit to make the shifting a bit smoother.
Bike is 2nd hand so warranty will be a tricky one. I guess if it does I can simply whack some Ultegra shifters on there without too much fuss?
I quite like the look of the adjustable SRAM shifters but looks like compatibility isn't that friendly.
Thanks for your help guys.0 -
Yeah, as you said they might not be totally gone if you can still shift, let the bike shop have a look first but if broken I hope you get a warranty, it is hardly fair, you expect something like that to last longer than it did. If you don't I see three options.
Replacement pair of Ultegra Levers. (cheapest I can see them is £165 online@ ribble cycles)
A pair of Campagnolo Veloce Levers (Ribble £88 plus a Jtek Shiftmate adapter £30 from SJS Cycles) the adapter means you can run Campag levers with a Shimano System.
If SRAM was an option, the best deal I can see is this as the levers and a shiftmate would come to a similar price: http://www.fudgescyclestore.com/index.php?p=105835
I started with the second option, and gradually upgraded to campag throughout. The Campag levers in my mind are much much more comfortable, and seem more robust. Veloce is the equivalent quality to 105, Centaur would be closer to Ultegra.0 -
http://www.planet-x-bikes.co.uk/i/q/GLS ... rey---pair
A lever change sounds on the cards. My 105 lasted about 6 months like that and then just broke. I've since got dura ace 7800 levers which are double specific and the shifting is utterly faultless especially the front end which is slick as you like. No tension present at all, just click and down drops the chain.
When Shimano get it right, they get it right. Unfortunately the 105 stis are wrong.0 -
I've had a similar problem, the left 105 shifter has broken and will not stay up in the big ring.
I'm thinking of upgrading whilst I have to buy a new pair of shifters anyway but is it worth the extra money.
Also is it worth just upgrading the shifters or would it be advisable to upgrade the front and rear mechs as well?0 -
Simon, ask for a replacement from Shimano first, they know there is a problem with these!
Then seriously are you going to spend £200 on some more of these over priced items, which shimano have knowingly left on the market for 3 years when they are faulty?
....Campag Veloce egro levers are £80, better quality, and you just need a £30 adapter to make them work perfectly with your shimano system.0 -
I find that when I'm on the large ring, the left lever is very stiff making it difficult or impossible to change down to the small ring
But if I tap the lever (as if moving up to large ring or trimming) and then immediately shift down to the small ring, it works.
The tap seems to 'release it'
not ideal, but a useful work around0 -
Got a similar problem with mine. Bloke in the bike shop blamed it on the combination of a Shimano front mech with an FSA chainset, which is clearly bollox. He reckons he's fixed it, but I was having a few difficulties with it on my way back from the shop, so I doubt it's totally sorted.
Interesting to read the 105 10 speed shifter is at fault. I suggested it might be that to him and he assured me it wasn't.
If it happens while I'm doing the Marmotte, the bike's going in a ravine and he's paying for it.0 -
there was a very large batch of L/H 105 10spd stis with a problem, if you take it to your local shimano service centre they can send it to madison for a warranty claim, ive seen this happen 5 times now and each one was replaced0
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Before replacing your shifter i would remove the inner cable completely.
Check it is ok and clean/ grease it and re-install but not connect it to the front mech.
Operate the shifter while pulling on the end of the cable and see if it shifts to all three positions ok.
Then move the front mech by hand to see if it moves smoothly (it has a hideously heavy spring).
If all ok connect the cable and set up the tension and end stops.He is not the messiah, he is a very naughty boy !!0 -
Read this thread with interest cos ......Aaargh b*ll*x.
Broke my left hand shifter on the way in to work. The chain fell off the big ring so tightened the top adjustment screw. Put the chain back on and changed down and up. When I changed up and the cable was pulled very stiff as the chain didn't sit correctly on the big ring and then the down shifter went totally dead.....Gutted.
I don't feel I did anything "wrong" with regards to adjustment did I? I've got four years out of the shifter but have never been that pleased with the 105 front mech and shifter. Do you think I should ask my LBS to fit an ultegra shifter instead? Will that be more reliable? Or has the 105 LH shifter fault been fixed - anyone know...
Seems like a design fault that you can break the rachet so easily.... :roll:0 -
My 105 LH sti isn't exactly broken but is stiff and there is obvious tension in the shifter as it makes a craking sound when I change to the small ring. Is it worth taking this back to the bike shop or does it need to properly broken?0
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The shifters all rely on little springs within them to drive the ratchet mechanisms. It's always a good idea to regularly flush them through with WD40 and then relube with chain lube or engine lube whenever you replace the cables. If the little springs are allowed to get grunged up then the unit will stop working. It will also be harder to flush the crap out if the ratchets are not moving any more.- - - - - - - - - -
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