crank bottoms out and is slightly loose on the spindle
Comments
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if the crank is worn so that it goes too far onto the spindle, then i don't think a longer bb will help...
the key distance is how far from the spindle end the crank goes before seating, a longer spindle won't change that, the crank will still be going too far from the end - so the crank bolt is bottoming out on the spindle rather than pushing on the crank
you could try a thin shim between crank and spindle, try an aluminium drink can, it's very thin and easy to cut accurately with scissors, if that's too thick try cooking foilmy bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny0 -
The bottom bracket you are using is a square taper unit. If the axle is the same length as the one it replaces, then I can only imagine that your crank is split if it's sitting on the cup. Got any pics?- - - - - - - - - -
On Strava.{/url}0 -
What make of cranks?0
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It is a Gitane French bike from the late 60s or 70s and the old BB is Sugino Japanese Bottom Bracket, separate Spindle three pieces traditional Cup and Cone with longer right site (36 mm). On the cranks I can read "Maxy F3 forged 171 Japan" and they have three chainring bolts.
The new BB is Shimano, cartridge, British threaded, 68 x 113.
I have put back temporally the old BB with the original spindle and the crank fits perfectly, though is not so smooth and will have to be replaced.0 -
might be worth asking on the http://www.gitaneusa.com/ forummy bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny0
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With the old BB in place, compare the length of axle spindle sticking outwith the length available on the Shimano part. This will show if the Shimano spindle is simply too short which is what I suspect.0
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aren't there two standards of the shape of square taper, JIS and something else...
possibly try the other one?0 -
ride_whenever wrote:aren't there two standards of the shape of square taper, JIS and something else...
possibly try the other one?
No, it sounds like it's a JIS (japanese) taper bb thats needed, the other standard, ISO (Campag etc) would end up with the crank about 4mm further out.. might be worth trying an ISO bb if all else fails to get that 4mm
I looked this up on Sheldon Brown - I couldn't remember which was which until I did.0