Replacing an inner tube

S0rin
S0rin Posts: 106
edited May 2010 in Road beginners
Hey,

I'm having trouble replacing an inner tube on my bike. There's about a quarter of the tire that for the life of me I cannot get back in. I'm already thinking that I must have nicked the inner tube with all the effort trying to pull the tire back in the rims.

Is there a nack to getting it back in?

Comments

  • stokepa31
    stokepa31 Posts: 560
    are you using tyre levers???
    Burning Fat Not Rubber

    Scott CR1
    Genesis IO ID
    Moda Canon
  • sungod
    sungod Posts: 17,413
    try warming up the tyre, might make it a bit more flexible

    push the valve stem *in*, i.e, towards the tyre not the hub, otherwise you get a fat bit in the way of the tyre bead, only pull the stem out after the tyre is fully on

    if you haven't already done so, inflate the tube a bit, it reduces the likelihood of pinching the tube

    don't try to push too much of the tyre over the rim in one go, try just easing 1-2mm at a time, once you are past a certain point it'll suddenly get easier
    my bike - faster than god's and twice as shiny
  • Hoojee
    Hoojee Posts: 3
    Some of them are just a PITA, end of. You can make things easier for yourself by making sure the valve is not pushed all the way through the valve hole in rim, putting the tyre on so that the valve 'side' is the last to be pushed in, crouching like you're on the toilet with the tyre in your lap and pushing the tyre with the balls of your palms so you feel like you're trying to roll it over the rim. Is the tube inflated too much?
  • S0rin
    S0rin Posts: 106
    Took 2 hours and half the skin off my hands by I did it. More practice required.
  • sods_law
    sods_law Posts: 161
    I often have to use tyre levers to get my tyres on. Practice is the key :)
  • surreyxc
    surreyxc Posts: 293
    brute strength. I have had combos of tyre and rim which have had me weeping (a ritchy rim).
    You need to get the tyre on, however I would look to change the tyre to a different model, or brand go folding, see if that helps. Yes spending money but better than being stuck 20 miles out on ride. If that does not work then replace the rim.
  • danowat
    danowat Posts: 2,877
    I struggled last night to get some tyres on my new Easton rims, jeepers creepers they were tight!!!!, but yeah, brute force and plentifull swearing gets the job done eventually!
  • Lycra Man
    Lycra Man Posts: 141
    The secret is making sre that the tyre is down in the well of the wheel, so that when you are on the 'opposite side' you have maximum looseness of tyre to help you. Not explained very well.

    Alternatively, have your mechanics change it while they follow you in the support car.

    Lycra Man
    FCN7 - 1 for SPDs = FCN6
  • S0rin
    S0rin Posts: 106
    surreyxc wrote:
    brute strength. I have had combos of tyre and rim which have had me weeping (a ritchy rim).
    You need to get the tyre on, however I would look to change the tyre to a different model, or brand go folding, see if that helps. Yes spending money but better than being stuck 20 miles out on ride. If that does not work then replace the rim.

    What is brand go folding?
  • gwillis
    gwillis Posts: 998
    I had my first flat on Sunday and hadnt changed a tube for probably 20 years...... pinched 2 tubes and nearly threw bike under large tractor that was passing. Inflating the tube is a good point as it reduces the chances of pinching. Lessons learned and its worth having a few dummy runs at home
  • Lillywhite
    Lillywhite Posts: 742
    Unless you're ultra careful, using tyre levers to get the tyre on can result in nipping the inner tube and at £4-5 a go the cost can mount up. :roll:
  • asprilla
    asprilla Posts: 8,440
    Lillywhite wrote:
    Unless you're ultra careful, using tyre levers to get the tyre on can result in nipping the inner tube and at £4-5 a go the cost can mount up. :roll:

    Of course you could patch the tube rather than just throw it away.............
    Mud - Genesis Vapour CCX
    Race - Fuji Norcom Straight
    Sun - Cervelo R3
    Winter / Commute - Dolan ADX
  • Lillywhite
    Lillywhite Posts: 742
    Asprilla wrote:

    Of course you could patch the tube rather than just throw it away.............

    Of course. A bit annoying to be patching a new inner tube when it hasn't be used in anger. A guy in a club that I was in reckoned that he had some inner tubes with over 20 patches on. :shock:
    You should, however, never race on a patched inner tube or repaired tubular. :wink:
  • desweller
    desweller Posts: 5,175
    Out of interest, why does everyone on here advocate starting opposite the valve? I have always started at the valve and worked my way across the wheel to the opposite side (if you catch my drift) and it's always seemed to me to be the logical way to avoid stressing the valve area of the tube...
    - - - - - - - - - -
    On Strava.{/url}
  • Runoutofgears
    Runoutofgears Posts: 348
    I think if you start away from the valve, (not necessarily opposite) the tyre bead can go as deep as posible into the wheel rim giving you a little more scope to push that last bit over the rim.

    I don't like leaving the end bit close to the valve as a always seems more difficult to bed the tyre bead in when working close to the valve stem.
    I ache, therefore I am.
  • CiB
    CiB Posts: 6,098
    Lillywhite wrote:
    Of course. A bit annoying to be patching a new inner tube when it hasn't be used in anger. A guy in a club that I was in reckoned that he had some inner tubes with over 20 patches on. :shock:
    You should, however, never race on a patched inner tube or repaired tubular. :wink:
    Point of order, and noting the wink smiley, but errr... cobblers. A properly repaired tube is as good as any un-patched one. The vulcanising glue causes the patch & tube to merge together; if it's done properly you'll never rip a patch from a tube. Which means clearly that 20, 30, or 57 patches is not too many as long as they don't overlap. That does invite problems.

    :wink:
  • Bunneh
    Bunneh Posts: 1,329
    Whatever happened to Leeches? I recall them being utter crap compared to a proper repair kit.
  • ilm_zero7
    ilm_zero7 Posts: 2,213
    DesWeller wrote:
    Out of interest, why does everyone on here advocate starting opposite the valve? I have always started at the valve and worked my way across the wheel to the opposite side (if you catch my drift) and it's always seemed to me to be the logical way to avoid stressing the valve area of the tube...

    rascal. I am with you - i push the inner tube and valve seat up into the tyre - seems to me this is the most likely area to suffer from pinching, especially in the wrestle stages of the last bit of rim to flip over!
    http://veloviewer.com/SigImage.php?a=3370a&r=3&c=5&u=M&g=p&f=abcdefghij&z=a.png
    Wiliers: Cento Uno/Superleggera R and Zero 7. Bianchi Infinito CV and Oltre XR2
  • I am led to believe that talcum powder (on the inner-tube) helps
    I disapprove of what you say but will defend....your right to say it. Francois-Marie Arouet Voltaire08 Cotic Soda-deceased!10 Bianchi 928 c2c23 Marin Nicasio2
  • crumbschief
    crumbschief Posts: 3,399
    Bunneh wrote:
    Whatever happened to Leeches? I recall them being utter crap compared to a proper repair kit.

    They are still about and i find them great at cleansing the body of ills,i often have an afternoon leech after tiffin.
  • ilm_zero7
    ilm_zero7 Posts: 2,213
    Bunneh wrote:
    Whatever happened to Leeches? I recall them being utter crap compared to a proper repair kit.

    They are still about and i find them great at cleansing the body of ills,i often have an afternoon leech after tiffin.

    see

    www.youtube.com/watch?v=nrGa5JM9GjE
    http://veloviewer.com/SigImage.php?a=3370a&r=3&c=5&u=M&g=p&f=abcdefghij&z=a.png
    Wiliers: Cento Uno/Superleggera R and Zero 7. Bianchi Infinito CV and Oltre XR2
  • Mad Roadie
    Mad Roadie Posts: 710
    Bunneh wrote:
    Whatever happened to Leeches? I recall them being utter crap compared to a proper repair kit.

    Lyceehes! I cant see why some odd testicle shaped fruit would be expected to repair a puncture... did you use the prickly skin or the bo$$ock-like bit in the middle?

    xq9puv.jpg
  • Rich Hcp
    Rich Hcp Posts: 1,355
    Lillywhite wrote:
    Unless you're ultra careful, using tyre levers to get the tyre on can result in nipping the inner tube and at £4-5 a go the cost can mount up. :roll:

    At risk of jinxing myself, I use cheap plastic levers from Halfrauds and not had a problem, I only use the lever of the last bit.

    I put the tuble in with well of the rim with no air until 3/4 of the way around the rim with the tyre, then a little air, check for pinching and carry on round.

    Its not a job to be rushed, even at the side of the road.

    And yes, swearing does help!
    Richard

    Giving it Large