Building my perfect commuting bike - some questions
pete99
Posts: 43
For some time I've commuted on what was (a long time ago) my off-road MTB, a very good but extremely old rigid Klein, with slick tyres. I'm a bit worried the frame's on its way out, and the bottom bracket is wobbling, and such an odd type I might never get it replaced.
So, the time has perhaps come to get a new commuter bike, and I'm thinking of building it from scratch, maybe even with some second-hand bits, depends. My budget is also variable and could go to £1,000 or so.
My dream is to build a light, ultra-stiff bike which accelerates really well. It would be a rigid frame, either road or MTB, with straight bars and (ideally) a single chainring and rear deraileur. Some questions:
1. What frame?
I adore the Klein frame. It's ultra-stiff aluminium, totally rigid - you feel every bump - but incredibly quick to accelerate and climb. What modern frame can I get which is an equivalent? Stiff as all hell (don't care about comfort) but not too vastly expensive, Light is good but not everything. Ideally, I'd like the frame to come with (rigid) forks.
2. 26'' or 700c?
My instinctive preference is for 26'', as it feels that bit quicker to accelerate. I live in London, so it's a pretty stop-start commute. But can you get 26''-compatible frames with rigid forks? Does the geometry of them only work with suspension forks? If so I need to go for 700c, I guess.
3. Can I easily have a rear derailleur with just one chainring?
Would I need some sort of chain guide (or front derailleur) to stop the chain slipping off the chainring when it changes at the back with only one chainring? How does that work? I want gears but in London I only need the spread you get from a normal-ish cassette on one chainring. I know it's old school - a 9 (or 10) speed bike. Any other things I need to consider in terms of rear derailleur cage length/cassette size etc for this?
4. What wheels?
In part this depends on the 26'' or 700c conundrum, but any recommendations for fairly light wheels which don't cost vast amounts but are really stiff and accelerate well. I'm quite light – 66kg – so they don't need to be too strong.
5. Bars/seatpost/stem
Any tips for something light but not absurdly expensive?
6. Any other clever tips?
All help most appreciated,
So, the time has perhaps come to get a new commuter bike, and I'm thinking of building it from scratch, maybe even with some second-hand bits, depends. My budget is also variable and could go to £1,000 or so.
My dream is to build a light, ultra-stiff bike which accelerates really well. It would be a rigid frame, either road or MTB, with straight bars and (ideally) a single chainring and rear deraileur. Some questions:
1. What frame?
I adore the Klein frame. It's ultra-stiff aluminium, totally rigid - you feel every bump - but incredibly quick to accelerate and climb. What modern frame can I get which is an equivalent? Stiff as all hell (don't care about comfort) but not too vastly expensive, Light is good but not everything. Ideally, I'd like the frame to come with (rigid) forks.
2. 26'' or 700c?
My instinctive preference is for 26'', as it feels that bit quicker to accelerate. I live in London, so it's a pretty stop-start commute. But can you get 26''-compatible frames with rigid forks? Does the geometry of them only work with suspension forks? If so I need to go for 700c, I guess.
3. Can I easily have a rear derailleur with just one chainring?
Would I need some sort of chain guide (or front derailleur) to stop the chain slipping off the chainring when it changes at the back with only one chainring? How does that work? I want gears but in London I only need the spread you get from a normal-ish cassette on one chainring. I know it's old school - a 9 (or 10) speed bike. Any other things I need to consider in terms of rear derailleur cage length/cassette size etc for this?
4. What wheels?
In part this depends on the 26'' or 700c conundrum, but any recommendations for fairly light wheels which don't cost vast amounts but are really stiff and accelerate well. I'm quite light – 66kg – so they don't need to be too strong.
5. Bars/seatpost/stem
Any tips for something light but not absurdly expensive?
6. Any other clever tips?
All help most appreciated,
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Comments
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pete99 wrote:3. Can I easily have a rear derailleur with just one chainring?
Would I need some sort of chain guide (or front derailleur) to stop the chain slipping off the chainring when it changes at the back with only one chainring? How does that work? I want gears but in London I only need the spread you get from a normal-ish cassette on one chainring. I know it's old school - a 9 (or 10) speed bike. Any other things I need to consider in terms of rear derailleur cage length/cassette size etc for this?
Have you considered an Alfine? Saves a lot of hassle I'd have thought, you can order a wheel of either size with the hub built in0 -
I think the best bet for your requirements is an MTB frame built up. Many rigid forks can be got 'suspension corrected'.
Chain guides can help, but are not always needed. Rear mech cage length depends on the capacity of the gears you are fitting, MTB short is fine for all single chainring choices, and if using a close ratio rear cassette a road bike rear mech will work.
Exotic/carbon cycles do really light stuff at great prices.
Fully built bikes always work out better value. May be an idea to get one, and customise it.
I'd have a look at a GT Zaskar Elite - stiff frames.0 -
Check out the Roadrat http://www.cotic.co.uk/product/roadrat, I'm thinking about building one of these up for commuting at the moment.
There are some good examples of what you could do here: http://www.18bikes.co.uk/content/custom_build_bike.php0 -
woodnut: I like the look of the Alfine, but the 1.5kg or so weight makes me a bit wary. I'd love to try out a bike with one on, though.
supersonic: I guess you're right, and a complete bike would be better value. There's just something satisfying about picking each individual component.
sicknewt: I like the look of those a lot.0 -
Check on the On-one Scandal, light stiff alu MTB frame for Xc racing, team it up with the on-one carbon rigid fork and you should meet many of your requirments
http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/FROO26SCVD/ ... pout-frame
http://www.on-one.co.uk/i/q/CBOO26SCST/scandal-26er<a>road</a>0 -
The bottom bracket bearings in your Klein may not be terribly odd. Pull them out and take them into a bearing shop.
What makes you think the frame is on its way out?John Stevenson0 -
I have a GT 9rMulti - 29 wheels, steel frame, rigid forks - I find the larger wheels give me a smoother ride and I've swapped the MTB tyres for Marathons which are pretty much bomb proof but have a low rolling resistance - disc brakes are useful when commuting - you never know when someone will pull out in front of you.0
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John:
Re the Klein bottom bracket, it's just that when I last replaced it (about 14 years ago) I had to hunt around for ages for a shop which could do it. It was something to do with having the right tool to remove the BB. I could be mis-remembering, but I think the shop said that Klein BBs from that era were very unusual. Having said that, I've not even asked my local shop.
As for the frame - well, it's a very, very old bike which has taken an enormous amount of punishment. I bought it (second hand) in New Zealand in 1995, rode it most of the way back to the UK laden in panniers and have commuted on it more or less ever since. I even couriered on it for a bit. Sure such a stiff aluminium frame is going to give up one day? Not even old-era Klein frames can be indestructible.0
