This commuting lark is meant to save money!

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Comments

  • Blacktemplar
    Blacktemplar Posts: 713
    I guess there's (at least) two phases to the cost/saving equation, particularly for us noobs;

    Phase 1
    Tyre kicking, catalogue collection and online catatonia, followed by the purchase of a new steed and every concievable accessory / item of clothing required for the fickle Scottish weather (I mean, snow in May, I ask you...). Hugely expensive but satifying in a quite naughty way.

    Phase 2
    The daily commute. Accompanied by occasional doe-eyed lavatory-based perusal of the latest glossy magazines and catalogues, but largely stable/sensible costs except for consumables like tyres, inner tubes that resemble a patchwork quilt, and emergency Mars bars. (Note: I collect gloves like my wife collects shoes - you can never have too many pairs)

    For me, savings amount to about £70 a month in fuel on my 25-mile round trip. So in a year I'll have covered the startup costs and will be onto "pure" savings.

    Like Plumby Baby I've lost a fair bit of weight and feel a darned sight better (when I can walk) than I have done in years - something you definitely can't put a price on.

    Jeez, another Weedgie!! What side of the city do you commute on?

    I'm of the Southside variety - Clarkston/Mearns area - a fun filled daily commute to Chapelle-de-Tambour. Lurvely. You?
    "Get a bicycle. You won't regret it if you live"
    Mark Twain
  • W1
    W1 Posts: 2,636
    Mike400 wrote:
    My main expense (after buying the bike/panniers/shoes/lights/lid etc) has been chains / cassttes but after some tips here http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12699178 I reckon I can get waaay more miles outta them

    I also read that thread and have just bought a toolkit from Wiggle and some replacement transmission parts. I'm sure it can't be that hard to do, and as much of the cost is in the labour I'd rather buy the tools and do it myself. We shall see!

    The only thing I can't see myself tackling is wheel tru-ing, but that should only be maybe £30-40 a year at a bike shop (3,500 miles on the best of London's potholed streets!).

    Hopefully will keep the costs down - that and not having a bike stolen again!
  • rhext
    rhext Posts: 1,639
    I reckon £100 a year on spares and maintenance, tops. All else is discretionary (although I'll confess, I do spend more than that).

    For me £5 a day in fuel and tyres, maybe 200 days a year: £1,000 saving. The insurance is a little cheaper too, and I guess there's probably a maintenance saving on the car too. You can save money, but you do have to exercise a little self-control!

    But the real reason for doing it is health: so £30 per month (min) saved on gymn membership, plus time saved exercising when I'd otherwise be sitting in a car - priceless.
  • Wallace1492
    Wallace1492 Posts: 3,707
    I guess there's (at least) two phases to the cost/saving equation, particularly for us noobs;

    Phase 1
    Tyre kicking, catalogue collection and online catatonia, followed by the purchase of a new steed and every concievable accessory / item of clothing required for the fickle Scottish weather (I mean, snow in May, I ask you...). Hugely expensive but satifying in a quite naughty way.

    Phase 2
    The daily commute. Accompanied by occasional doe-eyed lavatory-based perusal of the latest glossy magazines and catalogues, but largely stable/sensible costs except for consumables like tyres, inner tubes that resemble a patchwork quilt, and emergency Mars bars. (Note: I collect gloves like my wife collects shoes - you can never have too many pairs)

    For me, savings amount to about £70 a month in fuel on my 25-mile round trip. So in a year I'll have covered the startup costs and will be onto "pure" savings.

    Like Plumby Baby I've lost a fair bit of weight and feel a darned sight better (when I can walk) than I have done in years - something you definitely can't put a price on.

    Jeez, another Weedgie!! What side of the city do you commute on?

    I'm of the Southside variety - Clarkston/Mearns area - a fun filled daily commute to Chapelle-de-Tambour. Lurvely. You?

    Up and down the Maryhill Road from the lovely north side. 7.5 miles each way. Though try and vary the route home, have gone over Renfrew Ferry and Erskine Bridge for extra distance.
    "Encyclopaedia is a fetish for very small bicycles"
  • W1 wrote:
    Mike400 wrote:
    My main expense (after buying the bike/panniers/shoes/lights/lid etc) has been chains / cassttes but after some tips here http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12699178 I reckon I can get waaay more miles outta them

    I also read that thread and have just bought a toolkit from Wiggle and some replacement transmission parts. I'm sure it can't be that hard to do, and as much of the cost is in the labour I'd rather buy the tools and do it myself. We shall see!

    The only thing I can't see myself tackling is wheel tru-ing, but that should only be maybe £30-40 a year at a bike shop (3,500 miles on the best of London's potholed streets!).

    Hopefully will keep the costs down - that and not having a bike stolen again!

    If you can tune a guitar, you can true a wheel. It's a LOT easier than people would have you believe.
  • W1
    W1 Posts: 2,636
    W1 wrote:
    Mike400 wrote:
    My main expense (after buying the bike/panniers/shoes/lights/lid etc) has been chains / cassttes but after some tips here http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=12699178 I reckon I can get waaay more miles outta them

    I also read that thread and have just bought a toolkit from Wiggle and some replacement transmission parts. I'm sure it can't be that hard to do, and as much of the cost is in the labour I'd rather buy the tools and do it myself. We shall see!

    The only thing I can't see myself tackling is wheel tru-ing, but that should only be maybe £30-40 a year at a bike shop (3,500 miles on the best of London's potholed streets!).

    Hopefully will keep the costs down - that and not having a bike stolen again!

    If you can tune a guitar, you can true a wheel. It's a LOT easier than people would have you believe.

    If you could link me to an idiot's guide for the mechanically inept I'd be much obliged.
  • roger_merriman
    roger_merriman Posts: 6,165
    Tools for the job, I use a big heavy hybrid for the job, this beasty. 4053069125_fbea2722f2.jpg

    it's 4 years old now, it didn't do much first year but has worked hard since.

    In that time it's had new pannier rack.
    M+ tires about 3 years ago.
    gone though 3 or 4 rear wheels.
    loads of locks and saddles, and brake pads.
    so yes original chain, cassette and so on. 7 speed gear is heavy clunky cheap crud but it's tough.

    high performance bikes and gear isn't going to be that durable, it's not it's intention.
  • dav1
    dav1 Posts: 1,298
    To be honest I should be well in pocket but I am actually spending a lot more.

    Truth is though I don't need cycle specific clothing, decent replacement parts when things wear out, decent accessories.

    I also don't need to do training loops on my commutes and take leisure rides at weekends.

    When I break it down into the commuting duties of my bike, and the leisure vs what bus would cost and what I would spend money on of not riding at the weekend them I am well ahead.

    Basically commuting is subsidising my leisure cycling rather then saving me money, something I am quite happy with :D
    Giant TCR advanced 2 (Summer/race)
    Merlin single malt fixie (Commuter/winter/training)
    Trek superfly 7 (Summer XC)
    Giant Yukon singlespeed conversion (winter MTB/Ice/snow)

    Carrera virtuoso - RIP
  • i gave up my beloved land rover in jan 2009. leaving us with 1 tiny micra to run. i commute 41 miles a day. according to the aa website i've saved about £8,000 per annum. add parking fees at £3 per day, i would say my brommie has earned her keep. i've lost over 2 stone and my blood pressure has plummeted, all in all i'm quids in.
    Cotic Soul rider.
  • now then, the scott is a different matter, she costs me loads but she is to be ridden hard!!!
    Cotic Soul rider.
  • jimmypippa
    jimmypippa Posts: 1,712
    Most cycling related costs, I mean the big ones, are when you start up by buying the bike, helmet, lights, locks etc etc. Once you have all the basics you don't HAVE to keep spending. A lot of people do of course, keeping Wiggle, CRC etc in business, but it's possible to cycle very cheaply, especially if all you're doing is commuting. Whereas car costs tend to be constant and continuous - petrol, insurance, tax. As do rail or Tube costs (£100 per month nearly if you live in zone 2 in London).

    Bought a new bike on CTW this April: £650 i.e. £31/month for a year.

    My wife uses the car, so I'd either need another car, or public transport, which is £25/week at the moment (and due to rise).

    If I use the bike 6 days a month I am breaking even, and it would be paid off in this year.

    Using those maths I could buy an equivalent new bike every year and forget about servicing it...

    But I won't
  • prawny
    prawny Posts: 5,440
    Does anyone think there is a distance where it starts being not so much of a saving?

    My commute is 20-21 miles each way, my old train pass was about £55.

    So far I've bought the bike £400ish 3 new tyres £30 a pop 2 new cables summer shoes £60 winter boots £120 new saddle to replace knackered old one £60 Shorts £30 for a few pairs more shorts to replace inadequate ones for a 40 mile round trip, Chain & cassette lube grease new wheels the list goes on.

    It seems like all the money I have goes on my bike and I'm knackered all the time. Yesterday I felt like jacking it all in. I wish my commmute was half the distance.
    Saracen Tenet 3 - 2015 - Dead - Replaced with a Hack Frame
    Voodoo Bizango - 2014 - Dead - Hit by a car
    Vitus Sentier VRS - 2017
  • W1 wrote:
    [If you can tune a guitar, you can true a wheel. It's a LOT easier than people would have you believe.

    If you could link me to an idiot's guide for the mechanically inept I'd be much obliged.

    Didn't see this yesterday. This seems pretty good:

    http://bicyclewarehouse.com/how-to/whee ... -pg465.htm

    I do the bit at the end, "Truing by pitch". Make sure though, that on your rear wheel you aren't trying to get drive-side and non-drive-side to the same pitch, unless you're single-speed.
  • W1
    W1 Posts: 2,636
    W1 wrote:
    [If you can tune a guitar, you can true a wheel. It's a LOT easier than people would have you believe.

    If you could link me to an idiot's guide for the mechanically inept I'd be much obliged.

    Didn't see this yesterday. This seems pretty good:

    http://bicyclewarehouse.com/how-to/whee ... -pg465.htm

    I do the bit at the end, "Truing by pitch". Make sure though, that on your rear wheel you aren't trying to get drive-side and non-drive-side to the same pitch, unless you're single-speed.

    Thanks for that - I thought you were joking with the guitar comment!

    I might have a go at this too then, to add to my money-saving DIY bike maintenance scheme....
  • Mike400
    Mike400 Posts: 226
    Thats another element - because I commute purely by bike, and use the train as a backup, I dont need my own car.

    So a while back we (the wife and I) sold our scrappy cars and bought one nice car between us.

    She uses it during the week, I use it evenings / weekends as and when.

    works better than expected - I thought there might be a bit of bother if we both wanted it at the same time at the weekend or whatever but im finding im starting to cycle more of my "leisure" journeys anyway :D

    Split the cost down the middle and I guess im seeing serious cost savings as im only running half a car now :)
    twitter @fat_cyclist
  • gbsahne001
    gbsahne001 Posts: 1,973
    just worked out the costs in terms of depreciation and running if I had bought a second car; means that I can justify the outlay of a very nice bike..... now how do I hide it?
  • W1
    W1 Posts: 2,636
    W1 wrote:
    W1 wrote:
    [If you can tune a guitar, you can true a wheel. It's a LOT easier than people would have you believe.

    If you could link me to an idiot's guide for the mechanically inept I'd be much obliged.

    Didn't see this yesterday. This seems pretty good:

    http://bicyclewarehouse.com/how-to/whee ... -pg465.htm

    I do the bit at the end, "Truing by pitch". Make sure though, that on your rear wheel you aren't trying to get drive-side and non-drive-side to the same pitch, unless you're single-speed.

    Thanks for that - I thought you were joking with the guitar comment!

    I might have a go at this too then, to add to my money-saving DIY bike maintenance scheme....

    Hmm, new wheel required apparently....oh well!
  • itsbruce
    itsbruce Posts: 221
    Do people take into account the savings gained from not paying for Gym membership?.

    Not a saving for me; I cycle-commute 5 days a week and go to the gym 3 days a week. But then I don't go to the gym for cardio.
  • W1 wrote:
    W1 wrote:
    W1 wrote:
    [If you can tune a guitar, you can true a wheel. It's a LOT easier than people would have you believe.

    If you could link me to an idiot's guide for the mechanically inept I'd be much obliged.

    Didn't see this yesterday. This seems pretty good:

    http://bicyclewarehouse.com/how-to/whee ... -pg465.htm

    I do the bit at the end, "Truing by pitch". Make sure though, that on your rear wheel you aren't trying to get drive-side and non-drive-side to the same pitch, unless you're single-speed.

    Thanks for that - I thought you were joking with the guitar comment!

    I might have a go at this too then, to add to my money-saving DIY bike maintenance scheme....

    Hmm, new wheel required apparently....oh well!

    What did you do when trying to true it?? :shock:
  • W1
    W1 Posts: 2,636
    W1 wrote:
    W1 wrote:
    W1 wrote:
    [If you can tune a guitar, you can true a wheel. It's a LOT easier than people would have you believe.

    If you could link me to an idiot's guide for the mechanically inept I'd be much obliged.

    Didn't see this yesterday. This seems pretty good:

    http://bicyclewarehouse.com/how-to/whee ... -pg465.htm

    I do the bit at the end, "Truing by pitch". Make sure though, that on your rear wheel you aren't trying to get drive-side and non-drive-side to the same pitch, unless you're single-speed.

    Thanks for that - I thought you were joking with the guitar comment!

    I might have a go at this too then, to add to my money-saving DIY bike maintenance scheme....

    Hmm, new wheel required apparently....oh well!

    What did you do when trying to true it?? :shock:

    Hadn't even tried yet! Had dropped it off the a bike shop as I don't have my Fisher Price toolkit yet, they called to say a spoke had pulled through the rim. Such is life, I'll true them myself from now on though!
  • El Capitano
    El Capitano Posts: 6,401
    I save £5 on petrol for every day I ride to work. In the past 18 months, all I've spent on the commuter bike is 2 or 3 bottles of chain lube. Drivetrain is holding up well, but will probably need a new cassette and chain before the summer's out. Continental Contacts are also wearing well, but again will probably need another pair (or Gatorskinz) before the winter.

    Wear cheap clothes from Aldi and t-shirts from Sports Direct for commuting - they become virtually disposable (and get used as bike rags) at that price. Also utilise my 'old' cycling shoes, keeping the new ones for 'proper' riding. My only real expensive clothing item would be the Endura overshoes at £20 that TBH have been worth every penny.

    Out of choice, I'd rather ride than drive. At 46, and a type 1 diabetic, riding keeps me much healthier than driving ever will. :D