Different tyres on front to the back
Oxygen Thief
Posts: 649
What's the purpose of this please?
Cheers
Cheers
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Because they are designed to suit thier specific locations.
Eg, the back tyre may have a tread pattern designed to provide more traction under power or decreased rolling resistance, whereas the front tyre may have tread pattern to assist with something else, maybe grip whilst cornering.0 -
jonbonjovial wrote:What's the purpose of this please?
Cheers
Generally you want more grip on the front wheel.
If your going to slide out it its preferable for the back to slide first rather than have the front slide from under you. There are no hard and fast rules its down to personal preference so some, myself included, will run a more aggressive pattern or a softer compound on the front and an nice easy rolling tyre on the back.0 -
I don't know what to try first. Don't want to be buying loads of tyres to try different combos. :-/0
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jonbonjovial wrote:I don't know what to try first. Don't want to be buying loads of tyres to try different combos. :-/
Thats the problem everyone has. Best to go with other peoples advice and hope they suit you.0 -
What are you running at the moment? Any particular problems with them? Why do you want to try something different?0
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jonbonjovial wrote:I don't know what to try first. Don't want to be buying loads of tyres to try different combos. :-/
I'm not sure its always strictly necessary, I suppose it comes down to the overall balance of the bike.
I had a few issues with the front sliding from under me so just stuck on the stickiest tyre I could find. So during the winter I now run a Maxxis Minion 2.3 super tacky on the front and I have to say it really is confidence inspiring.
I am looking at replacing it with a Nobby Nic for the summer months.
But if your not having problems?0 -
Only got a bike last Saturday. Not had any problems yet, but was just looking to see what's on offer because I'm bound to not be using an ideal setup if I'm using the tyres the bike came with, tyures same on back and front. Nobody does that do they?! Tyres are Innova?! 2.1 inch0
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People tend to find that different tyres on either ends of the bike improves the set up (so do I).
Currently running 2.5 Conti Diesels front and 2.5 Conti Digga's rear. The Diesel tracks the ground with great ease and large side knobs grip like no ones business keeping my front end where I want it.
The Digga rear is a perfect braking tyre with large spacing between the knobs, meaning that I can drift the rear end out to get round those annoying switchbacks yet keep the bike firmly planted on off cambers. Clears well in mud too.
While I found using a more grippy tyre on the rear means I cant get that rear end out when I want too, and finding which ones DO NOT work well as a front either. Most of the time in a bush...
Just keep trying different options, before long you will find one that suits your riding style best
8)"If I Was Falling, YOU BETTER FREAKING CATCH ME!!!"
6 years riding bikes, 8 broken bones, gravity can be a b**ch
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Cheers, it's what to try first that's proving the problem. I'll get something grippy on the front and not as grippy on the back I think.0
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jonbonjovial wrote:Only got a bike last Saturday. Not had any problems yet, but was just looking to see what's on offer because I'm bound to not be using an ideal setup if I'm using the tyres the bike came with, tyures same on back and front. Nobody does that do they?! Tyres are Innova?! 2.1 inch
As you say your unlikely to have the ideal setup but I'd get a feel for the bike first.
Its difficult to be specific when in comes to tyre recommendations but I have no doubt you would benefit from fitting some high volume 2.3 's if your frame rims will allow, more so if you have a hardtail.
What bike have you got, Carrera Vulcan?
Have a read through this.
http://www.bicicletta.co.za/Downloadabl ... trated.pdf
(Note sometimes the page can be slow to upload).0 -
Yeah, how'd you guess! haha! I'll have a read of that link now. Cheers. How would I know if my rims can take 2.3's? I also use it to get to work, only 4miles each way. Wider wheels will slow me down won't they? It doesn't bother me as it's only 4miles anyway I'll just pedal harder
Cheers again all, good advice on these forums! 0 -
Interesting read that like. Offroad tyres should be as wide as the frame etc allows and only pumped up to as much as is necessary. That's just to increase your speed though, no mention of handling etc was there? But slightly flatter should give more grip anyway?!
And wideish tyres on road too, none of the old skinny wheels with high pressures.
Good stuff. Cheers0 -
if , as you say , you commute upto 8 miles a day , is this on tarmac ?
if so , i would not be buying wider 2.3 tyres.
either get some semi-slick 1.9 's for road use , and have a set of full knobblies for the track.
2.1 is a good all-round size and maybe you need better quality tyres rather than bigger tyres to suit your riding terrain.0 -
8 miles a day yeah and it's all on road. Might consider getting two sets like you say. Chunky ones for the weekend, slickish ones for the weekdays commute. Not had any problems with these tyres yet but I just know they're not that good so want some better ones.0
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Almost any tyre you buy will be an upgrade - those stock ones on the Vulcan weigh about 1kg! Those rims appear on a couple of Carrera bikes, and If I remember correctly, they were about 18mm internal width, so a 2.3" tyre should have no problems.
I don't know if you've had to remove tyres from those rims before, but they're quite a tight fit with some tyres - so I'd advise against rotating between different tyres on a weekly basis for commuting purposes. Simply because it's not worth the effort, unless you get some pretty easy fitting tyres (or have very strong thumbs :P ).0 -
asdfhjkl wrote:I don't know if you've had to remove tyres from those rims before, but they're quite a tight fit with some tyres - so I'd advise against rotating between different tyres on a weekly basis for commuting purposes. Simply because it's not worth the effort, unless you get some pretty easy fitting tyres (or have very strong thumbs :P ).
DT rims ahve a bad reputation for being really hard to fit/remove tyres but I don't have any bother since i have learnt the right technique.
Your technique plays a bigger part than how tight the beads are/rims0 -
peter413 wrote:asdfhjkl wrote:I don't know if you've had to remove tyres from those rims before, but they're quite a tight fit with some tyres - so I'd advise against rotating between different tyres on a weekly basis for commuting purposes. Simply because it's not worth the effort, unless you get some pretty easy fitting tyres (or have very strong thumbs :P ).
DT rims ahve a bad reputation for being really hard to fit/remove tyres but I don't have any bother since i have learnt the right technique.
Your technique plays a bigger part than how tight the beads are/rims
Agreed. They're not that bad so long as you do it properly, but in comparison to other rims I've worked with, they're quite tight.0 -
I also forgot to mention I swap my tyres on a regular basis, sometimes a few times a week :shock:0
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The gluey mountain kings (I believe they are) on my fury can be a right pain (in the legs mostly!). So since I had the wheels and tyres off anyway, I've decided to fit a spare one I had lying around to the back. See how I get on.0
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I'm def changing them come payday like. Just gunna have to decide what to from now 'til then! Chunky on front and not so much so on back I think.
Never changed a tyre before, bet it'll be a right nightmare!0 -
Just remember to push the bead into the well of the rim and you'll be fine. It'll give you plenty of slack. Most people have trouble because they don't do this and it becomes so much tighter.0
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Yeah, when I find out what the bead is that's what I'll do! lol. I'll be back asking for advice soon I bet
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