Record BB replacement - tools needed?
About to change my 2003 Record 10sp bottom bracket (pre UT) and wondered if i have the necessary tools for the job. I have the Park crank puller and the Park BBT-5 which does the BB and cassette lockring for the Campag cassettes. Also have a good adjustable wrench for the BB nut.
And can anyone recommend a good 3/8inch torque wrench, Campagnolo recommend 70nM for the bb - really? That much? Thanks ......
And can anyone recommend a good 3/8inch torque wrench, Campagnolo recommend 70nM for the bb - really? That much? Thanks ......
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Even though I have a big torque wrench, I rarely use if for things like cassette lockrings and BBs - all you need is a big lever and a good heave. The problem is that unless you have the right tool that fits directly to the torque wrench, there's a chance that with a socket, for example, it doesn't hold the tool securely in the splines and that with that leverage, it's quite easy to mangle the splines IME. A good heave on a big spanner is more than sufficient and I can make sure the tool is held in place with my other handMake mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0
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Hmm thanks monty, this is my first attempt at changing a BB so I want to do it properly. Do you think campag exaggerate their torque settings? 70nM does seem a lot, wouldn't 40-50 do it? But as you say, I could do it by feel and just do it up bloody tight!0
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giant mancp wrote:Hmm thanks monty, this is my first attempt at changing a BB so I want to do it properly. Do you think campag exaggerate their torque settings? 70nM does seem a lot, wouldn't 40-50 do it? But as you say, I could do it by feel and just do it up bloody tight!
I've never installed a BB with a torque wrench, but I do use one for crank bolts, which I tighten to 45NM (spec). I'd guess I tighten BB's with a bit more force: that feels "bloody tight" to me, though I'm sure less than 70NM, but I've never had problems with them.
I agree with Monty. I think "feel" is good enough for this. Take your time on the job and make sure your tools are engaged and not liable to slip. It's easy to make a big gouge in something expensive (or yourself) if something slips.
However, I do think a torque wrench is useful for crank bolts, simply because most people without experience tend not to tighten them enough. Once you've tightened them to spec (45NM is surprisingly tight!) a couple of times you can go by feel thereafter.0 -
Cyclus do a workshop-quality tool art 720195 that fits on the end of a torque wrench - if a job needs doing...Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0
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But why would the BB shells need to be faced again? It's a carbon frame and the previous BB has been in there for the past seven years you see.
Can someone explain the advantages of facing? Thank you ....0 -
A Record BB should be faced on the right hand side, it isn't necessary on the left. Either way, I don't see why your frame should be faced again if you're satisfied it's already been done properly.giant mancp wrote:But why would the BB shells need to be faced again? It's a carbon frame and the previous BB has been in there for the past seven years you see.
Can someone explain the advantages of facing? Thank you ....
Facing the BB shell presents a perfectly perpendicular face against which some bearing types may be preloaded, and which partially bears the operating load from pedalling. Even though these things are apparently completely rigid, there is some flexibility even in BB assemblies, which can result in binding of the bearings if the face is not perpendicular, and consequently rapid wear.0 -
I understand that thanks but the 'right hand side' being the drive side, I presume?0
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Yep. I think "right" and "left" are more straightforward than "drive side" and non-drive side"!giant mancp wrote:I understand that thanks but the 'right hand side' being the drive side, I presume?0
