Nobby Nik v Maxxis Ignitor or others?

Aud Reekie MTB
Posts: 164
Hey all,
Currently I have the Rocket Rons which came with my hardtail as standard. In a sense they are excellent - I'd have to get on my roadbike to find something that rolls faster!
Unfortunately, they simply don't do mud!
Now I'm still after a tyre with good rolling resistance (obviously it won't be quite as good), but with the ability to cope with just a small layer of mud on the climbs - just looking for a fast rolling all year XC tyre really.
I was thinking of either Nobby Niks or saving the cash and going for Maxxis Ignitors or something else in the Maxxis range. Any other suggestions welcome too!
What are your thoughts? Are the Nobby Niks better and worth the extra? Wihich rolls faster and which is better in mud? Are the Nobbys a lot worse for punctures?
Currently I have the Rocket Rons which came with my hardtail as standard. In a sense they are excellent - I'd have to get on my roadbike to find something that rolls faster!
Unfortunately, they simply don't do mud!
Now I'm still after a tyre with good rolling resistance (obviously it won't be quite as good), but with the ability to cope with just a small layer of mud on the climbs - just looking for a fast rolling all year XC tyre really.
I was thinking of either Nobby Niks or saving the cash and going for Maxxis Ignitors or something else in the Maxxis range. Any other suggestions welcome too!
What are your thoughts? Are the Nobby Niks better and worth the extra? Wihich rolls faster and which is better in mud? Are the Nobbys a lot worse for punctures?
0
Comments
-
I use Nobby Nics pretty much all year,including winter and fit my particular circumstances very well and would seem to fit your criteria.
They are not spectacularly good in deep mud,but are good for light mud and they are a good all round compromise for me as most of my local routes incude an element of gravel paths and the odd road section to link up trails.
Having had more mud specific tyres I find the drag on the fast bits for me more of an issue,than grip through deep mud.
Not tried Ignitors but looking at the closely spaced tread pattern I would imagine that they would clog easily if you have heavy soil/clay.
Hope that helps.2006 Giant XTC
2010 Giant Defy Advanced
2016 Boardman Pro 29er
2016 Pinnacle Lithium 4
2017 Canondale Supersix Evo0 -
+1 for Nobbies0
-
Cheers Spidey.
So the Nobby Nics roll well and aren't especially prone to punctures?0 -
I think the ordinary ones are very prone to punctures but the snakeskin version sorts this out.
I would just buy some Ignitors though. They are great and On-One are selling folding 2.35's for 15 quid each :P0 -
That's certainly "dirt" cheap - but how do they stack up on rolling resistance and mud plugging?0
-
Aud Reekie MTB wrote:Cheers Spidey.
So the Nobby Nics roll well and aren't especially prone to punctures?
Roll very well and no more puncture prone than the Nevegals,or Specialized tyres I have had before.2006 Giant XTC
2010 Giant Defy Advanced
2016 Boardman Pro 29er
2016 Pinnacle Lithium 4
2017 Canondale Supersix Evo0 -
+1 nobbies. dont seem to have alot of puncture problems even on the normal ones.0
-
Buy them from here:http://www.nextdaytyres.com/tyres/Schwalbe/Nobby-Nic.aspx
They also have the new 2010 version for a little more.2006 Giant XTC
2010 Giant Defy Advanced
2016 Boardman Pro 29er
2016 Pinnacle Lithium 4
2017 Canondale Supersix Evo0 -
And go for 2.25s.....2006 Giant XTC
2010 Giant Defy Advanced
2016 Boardman Pro 29er
2016 Pinnacle Lithium 4
2017 Canondale Supersix Evo0 -
I have ridden both Nobby Nic's in 2.25" Evo 3's and Maxxis Ignitors in 2.35" and 2.1" Exception series (the lightest ones - 120tpi & 62a compound rubber) while the Ignitors are very fast and excellent tryes for hardpack and dry trails they do not clear mud well and can be a bit sketchy in the wet.
Slightly wet & slippy conditions they're fun tyres to ride if you like and active rear end and can cope with the biek moving around alot underneath you - especially the back end.
Nobby Nics on the other hand are a much better all round tyre, I find them slightly draggy on moorland crossings which are a bti grassy - Ralphs would be in their element there - but in every other situation other than deep winter mud they're much better.
Merlin currently have the 2.1" Evo 3's in for £25 each and the 2.25" flavour for £30 - they are the pre facelift 2009 models, but on speaking to teh Schwalbe rep at last weekends Builth Wells Marathon, the 2010 Nobby Nic has slightly more aggressive tred and has moved up into their AM range from the XC range.0 -
Looks like Nobby Niks are the ones to go for!0
-
I've both the Rons and Nics, and have to say the extra traction you'll get with the Nics is negligible. I find the Rons great for all but the muddiest conditions - just reduce the pressure to the lowest you can get away with without pinch-flatting for some extra grip - think its around 25-30psi with a tube, but you can go lower if tubeless. The skill on a muddy climb is also a lot to do with weight transfer and smooth power, rather than bigger knobs! Spend that £75 on the missus, and you will be a lot happier!Scott Scale 20 (for xc racing)
Gary Fisher HKEK (for commuting)0 -
I was using a Ignitor on the back over winter and was very impressed with it. I wanted something that rolled a bit better and could handle wet conditions and it did the job brilliantly.
I also know a guy who uses Swalbe tyres a lot. Uses the Rons in the dry and Nik's when things start to get damp or when he's in a more aggressive riding mood. The reviews are great with the only downside being weak sidewalls and price. if you're a light rider and happy to spend the money i'd say go for the Niks otherwise the Ignitor is a great option too.0 -
You can get a pair of Nobby Nics 2.25 from Ribble Cycles for £52.28.Now where's that "Get Out of Crash Free Card"0
-
boneyjoe wrote:I've both the Rons and Nics, and have to say the extra traction you'll get with the Nics is negligible. I find the Rons great for all but the muddiest conditions - just reduce the pressure to the lowest you can get away with without pinch-flatting for some extra grip - think its around 25-30psi with a tube, but you can go lower if tubeless. The skill on a muddy climb is also a lot to do with weight transfer and smooth power, rather than bigger knobs! Spend that £75 on the missus, and you will be a lot happier!
Cheers all for the comments.
Hi Boney - Noting that we're heading into summer may stick with the Rons for a bit.
Can't help noting you have a Scott Scale 20 - great bike! I have a Scott Scale 35, which is carbon, but not at the level of your bike. I changed recently from a Cannondale Scalpel 2004, which is a 25lb full susser XC bike (I'm sure you know!).
I've been finding with the Scott that feels too light at the front end on climbs eg going up mud or shale surfaces I tend to do an involuntary wheelie! I have the Reba SL set to my weight (14st & 6'2"). Could it be the rebound setting or am I just taking a while to get used to a hardtail again?!
Andy0 -
I've got Ignitors and find they are great on almost everything, and you can plow through thick mud quite well, haven't used Shwalbes though, so I can't compare.Aud Reekie MTB wrote:I've been finding with the Scott that feels too light at the front end on climbs eg going up mud or shale surfaces I tend to do an involuntary wheelie! I have the Reba SL set to my weight (14st & 6'2"). Could it be the rebound setting or am I just taking a while to get used to a hardtail again?!
Andy
Thats probably cause the rear end is rigid and not bouncy so you are putting more power down, and thats lifting the front wheel. The rebound has nothing too do with it unless you are standing and the rebound is throwing the bike up.[/quote]And now you know, and knowing is half the battle
05 Spesh Enduro Expert
05 Trek 1000 Custom build
Speedily Singular Thingy0 -
Often had the backend locked on the climbs (one of the reasons I was happy to go back to HT).
Any other thoughts?0 -
Aud Reekie MTB wrote:Often had the backend locked on the climbs (one of the reasons I was happy to go back to HT).
Any other thoughts?
Just get used to it. Once you do, you know where to put your body to stop it happening.
Used to happen to me all the time with a new bike and again when I changed to lighter forks but now it hardly ever happens.
Just a case of learning how the bike behaves0 -
Aud Reekie MTB wrote:Often had the backend locked on the climbs (one of the reasons I was happy to go back to HT).
Any other thoughts?
Get you weight lower and further forward.Drop your elbows and make sure you are in the right gear2006 Giant XTC
2010 Giant Defy Advanced
2016 Boardman Pro 29er
2016 Pinnacle Lithium 4
2017 Canondale Supersix Evo0 -
Cheers folks - I'll just need to see if I can find bike skills classes somewhere!0