Headset torque

marin_maniac
marin_maniac Posts: 513
edited April 2010 in Workshop
Bit worried that I've done up me headset to tight to get rid of lateral play in it. I always just used to nip the headset up on my old bike, but to get rid of all lateral play I've had to torque it up more than I would like on me Team Carbon.

Even so, the headset still turns freely?

Comments

  • maddog 2
    maddog 2 Posts: 8,114
    you just need enough to take out the play in the headset and no more (whatsoever).

    it's never as much as what I would call "nipped up" but you might define it differently.
    Facts are meaningless, you can use facts to prove anything that's remotely true! - Homer
  • freehub
    freehub Posts: 4,257
    Even when the play appears to have gone, I still tightnen it up slightly more, when you put the front brake on hard and rock it backwards and forward you might still be able to detect abit of play.
  • jairaj
    jairaj Posts: 3,009
    If you have to tighten up the headset a lot to remove the play, then I'd check the bearings and/or internal surfaces aren't worn too. Usually its just the bearings that need replacing.
  • The bearing shouldn;t be worn as its a new bike.
    it's never as much as what I would call "nipped up" but you might define it differently.

    Ok I would say its not nipped up, but a bit tighter than say if I was torquing it up without using gorilla force if that make sense.
  • Smokin Joe
    Smokin Joe Posts: 2,706
    With cartridge bearings you don't need to be as sensitive as you had with loose ball systems, you can give them a bit more of a nip and they will still turn freely, In fact I find that without an extra 1/8 or 1/4 turn after taking up the slack they don't bed down properly and forever work loose.
  • bazbadger
    bazbadger Posts: 553
    Smokin Joe wrote:
    With cartridge bearings you don't need to be as sensitive as you had with loose ball systems, you can give them a bit more of a nip and they will still turn freely, In fact I find that without an extra 1/8 or 1/4 turn after taking up the slack they don't bed down properly and forever work loose.

    yep, agree with that. Had the same experience
    Mens agitat molem
  • Smokin Joe wrote:
    With cartridge bearings you don't need to be as sensitive as you had with loose ball systems, you can give them a bit more of a nip and they will still turn freely, In fact I find that without an extra 1/8 or 1/4 turn after taking up the slack they don't bed down properly and forever work loose.[/quote

    What an interesting post, thankyou.

    In fact I thought I was going mad because I was gingerly applying more torque to the headset than I would normally (and that isn't a lot!), and after torqing it, after a ride I thought it was coming loose again!

    1/4 turn after the slack has been taken out would feel like a lot!
  • rake
    rake Posts: 3,204
    i have the same bike and was having the same problem. it now seems to be sorted. i think my problem was without owning a torque wrench i was being very cautious about tightening the stem bolts up. i think maybe it was working loose because or road vibration and undertightening, ive since nipped them up a little more and all is well. i may try some carbon assembly paste to inrease the friction on the steerer. dont overtighten or you could damage the steerer (disclaimer) if you have a torque wrench thats probably best, i was just working on the principle of tightening as little as i thought i could get away with.
    like you i seemed to have to do the preload bolt up more than usuall on other bikes but i dont think it will cause any problems if it still turns freely.
  • Question for the Boardman Team Carbon owners:

    Does the expander plug that sits in the top of the fork steerer sit slightly proud of the top of the steerer, say about 2-3mm?