Headset torque

marin_maniac

Bit worried that I've done up me headset to tight to get rid of lateral play in it. I always just used to nip the headset up on my old bike, but to get rid of all lateral play I've had to torque it up more than I would like on me Team Carbon.

Even so, the headset still turns freely?

maddog 2

you just need enough to take out the play in the headset and no more (whatsoever).

it's never as much as what I would call "nipped up" but you might define it differently.

freehub

Even when the play appears to have gone, I still tightnen it up slightly more, when you put the front brake on hard and rock it backwards and forward you might still be able to detect abit of play.

jairaj

If you have to tighten up the headset a lot to remove the play, then I'd check the bearings and/or internal surfaces aren't worn too. Usually its just the bearings that need replacing.

marin_maniac

The bearing shouldn;t be worn as its a new bike.

it's never as much as what I would call "nipped up" but you might define it differently.

Ok I would say its not nipped up, but a bit tighter than say if I was torquing it up without using gorilla force if that make sense.

Smokin Joe

With cartridge bearings you don't need to be as sensitive as you had with loose ball systems, you can give them a bit more of a nip and they will still turn freely, In fact I find that without an extra 1/8 or 1/4 turn after taking up the slack they don't bed down properly and forever work loose.

bazbadger

Smokin Joe wrote:

With cartridge bearings you don't need to be as sensitive as you had with loose ball systems, you can give them a bit more of a nip and they will still turn freely, In fact I find that without an extra 1/8 or 1/4 turn after taking up the slack they don't bed down properly and forever work loose.

yep, agree with that. Had the same experience

marin_maniac

Smokin Joe wrote:

With cartridge bearings you don't need to be as sensitive as you had with loose ball systems, you can give them a bit more of a nip and they will still turn freely, In fact I find that without an extra 1/8 or 1/4 turn after taking up the slack they don't bed down properly and forever work loose.[/quote

What an interesting post, thankyou.

In fact I thought I was going mad because I was gingerly applying more torque to the headset than I would normally (and that isn't a lot!), and after torqing it, after a ride I thought it was coming loose again!

1/4 turn after the slack has been taken out would feel like a lot!

rake

i have the same bike and was having the same problem. it now seems to be sorted. i think my problem was without owning a torque wrench i was being very cautious about tightening the stem bolts up. i think maybe it was working loose because or road vibration and undertightening, ive since nipped them up a little more and all is well. i may try some carbon assembly paste to inrease the friction on the steerer. dont overtighten or you could damage the steerer (disclaimer) if you have a torque wrench thats probably best, i was just working on the principle of tightening as little as i thought i could get away with.
like you i seemed to have to do the preload bolt up more than usuall on other bikes but i dont think it will cause any problems if it still turns freely.

marin_maniac

Question for the Boardman Team Carbon owners:

Does the expander plug that sits in the top of the fork steerer sit slightly proud of the top of the steerer, say about 2-3mm?