Chain tension problem

supergunn
supergunn Posts: 59
edited April 2010 in The workshop
Hi,
Hope you can help..
I converted my GT Arrowhead mountain bike to a singlespeed (not fixed) for my flat commute to and from work.
I removed the inner and outer chainrings and left the middle ring 32T, I fitted a DMR conversion kit 16T cog complete with STS tensioner.
I refitted everything shortened the chain etc and everything fitted perfectly no noise or loss of tension.
I decided after a week to change the chain ring as it was too spinny.
I bought a middleburn 38T chainring but when i tried to rejoin the chain it was too slack even with the tensioner at it's max and if i took out a link I could not get the chain to meet up.
I bought a charge masher half link chain and this seemed to solve the problem of getting things reconnected but this has given me another problem.
If I tension the chain perfectly ie half inch movement as per Sheldon's advice I get a very noisy Rattling Grrrrrrrrrring noise if that makes sense.
If I release the tensioner a bit the noise goes away and everything is silent but the chain is now too slack.
I also have to retension the tensioner every couple of days.
I'm confused.
I don't know if the new chain is stretching or bedding in or if the tensioner is slipping or is it a crap tensioner.
Would I be better with a sprung tensioner
I really like the 38T and 16T combination but I was tempted to change the rear cog to a 17T to see if I could just use a normal chain again as I did not have any problems until I changed to this half link chain.
Your help and advice would be most welcome and greatly appreciated
Kind Regards
Supergunn

Comments

  • Salsa
    Salsa Posts: 753
    I had the same problem trying to run 38/16 on my converted Marin MTB (not enough tension even at max on the STS), I ended up changing to 44/16 with an STS tensioner before building myself a Surly SS wheel & running 44/18. With this I hit that magic ratio & no longer needed the tensioner.

    Does yours constantly rattle ? Or is it just when the half link passes through the tensioner?
    Obvious things would be a stiff link where you have joined it, or the half link on upside down/back to front (I run them flat bit on the top & the large bit to the front).
    Is the chainline perfect? Are you running a 1/8 chain on 3/32 parts?
    A SS specific high tooth, unramped chainring is worth buying (Salsa/Surly etc).
    I have always found half link chains rubbish as they stretch really quickly & prefer to just use 1 link in a normal chain if needed.
  • Hi

    I had a similar problem with my ss conversion also using a half link . Although I'm sure the half link added some noise I think the main problem with my setup was more to do with the tensioner's plastic wheel TBH.

    Next time around I would go for a sprung/sproket tensioner . I hated having to adjust the arm all the time as well , no matter how tight the securing bolt was done up.

    +1 on Salsa's chainline/link advice and on using a dedicated sproket -- I bought a surly one from www.charliethebikemonger.com

    If you don't mind tinkering -- try and find the magic gear . I took me some time , but with a half link I got there in the end .

    Most useful link -- www.sheldonbrown.com

    Good luck
  • supergunn
    supergunn Posts: 59
    Hi,
    In reply to salsa's letter.
    The whole thing rattles constantly.
    It is a half link chain.
    All the links on the chain are half links not just one.
    This chain is a lot thicker than a normal bike chain.
    There are no stiff links or anything.
    I may try and put a normal chain back on with just 1 half link.

    In reply to rubbercolin's letter I'm going to take the chain off and try again
    I was just a fraction short when I initially tried it when the chain was new
    If the chain has streched a bit I might just find the magic gear.
    If not I will try my old normal chain and add 1 half link to it .
    I'll let you know how I get on.

    Kind Regards
    Supergunn.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    which way are you using the tensioner?

    what is the Half link chain?

    as the STS does not like them all.

    and Pics.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • supergunn
    supergunn Posts: 59
    Hi Nicklouse,
    Thank you for your reply.
    The STS is pushing down on the chain could not get it to push up because of the chainstays.
    The chain is a Charge masher (maybe not designed to be used with a tensioner)
    I think you are probably right that the STS does not like some chains as I had no problems with my other normal bike chain.
    Kind Regards
    Supergunn.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,675
    if the info i can find is correct with it being a 1/8 width chain then the STS is the problem

    have a look at the Gusset Bachelor

    chgu-batch-blu.jpg

    http://www.gussetbikes.com/gusset/produ ... d=CHGUSSFK

    works with Fat chains.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • supergunn
    supergunn Posts: 59
    Hi Guy's ,
    This is to thank Nicklouse for pointing me in the right direction with my tensioner problem.
    The problem was with the Charge masher chain.
    The STS did not like it just as Nicklouse had suggested.
    The chain is too thick for the STS tensioner.
    I reffited my old thinner chain but had to change the 16T sprocket for a 15T to get the chain to join up and I nearly found the Magic tension but not quite.
    I now have everything refitted with a small amount of tension on the chain and everything is now superquiet.
    All I can hear now are the tyres rolling and I don't notice any difference between the 16T and 15T cog , in fact the 15T cog will give me more gear inches.
    Please note the STS Tensioner is not compatible with 1/8 chains as Nicklouse pointed out
    Thank's again Nicklouse.
    Kind Regards
    Supergunn.