Nokon gear cables - worth the cash?
Stellite
Posts: 544
Just wondering if the gear and brake cables are worth the outlay?
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Stellite wrote:Just wondering if the gear and brake cables are worth the outlay?
Not really. If you have some special condition where you need a tighter radius cable turn
than standard housing can give you then Nokon is what you might try. I use it for the housing of my rear mech cable at the rear wheel due to a hard to explain issue, but other than that I've never had a problem with standard housing.0 -
I have Alligator I-Links (same principle) on my Madone, far better gear shifting than the Gore cables that came standard with my SRAM Red groupset. I won't be using normal cable outers again any time soon0
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Hmmmmmmmmm, one for and one against. I'm betting that this trend will remain this way pretty much for the rest of it's life on this forum.
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spanielsson wrote:I have Alligator I-Links (same principle) on my Madone, far better gear shifting than the Gore cables that came standard with my SRAM Red groupset. I won't be using normal cable outers again any time soon
I'm now using the FULLY sealed gore cables on my Madone - find it much better than the standard Gore cables.
Basically the cables are sealed 100% of the way. I think it is supposed to extend the life of them as well.0 -
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Have tried a fully sealed system on the MTB and found they were a little more reluctant to drop down the sprocket in the dry, but werent affected by crap. Not considered them on the road bike as the stock Ultegra cables shift fine in all conditions0
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redddraggon wrote:If you are using a quality groupset like Campag with proper positive shifting you don't need it. Maybe it would help with the slightly sub standard shifting of Shimano and SRAM
:P
At least we can all ride up hills.
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NapoleonD wrote:redddraggon wrote:If you are using a quality groupset like Campag with proper positive shifting you don't need it. Maybe it would help with the slightly sub standard shifting of Shimano and SRAM
:P
At least we can all ride up hills.
I can't!0 -
NapoleonD wrote:redddraggon wrote:If you are using a quality groupset like Campag with proper positive shifting you don't need it. Maybe it would help with the slightly sub standard shifting of Shimano and SRAM
:P
At least we can all ride up hills.
pwned.0 -
+1 on the Gore Cables, just had the fully sealed ones fitted, lot better shifting with my Ultegra/Dura Ace mix.0
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redddraggon wrote:NapoleonD wrote:At least we can all ride up hills.
I'm sure that once I am able to actually ride without suffering from illness and mechanical failures I'll be better than you again.
I'm not trying to start a "my dick is bigger than your dick" type argument, but, if you are being serious, your training program had best be a good one.....0 -
spanielsson wrote:your training program had best be a good one.....
It's called "riding my bike".0 -
Maybe you should enter the mountain time trial on May 2. Beacon Ruth's event.
As NapD will be there and it's a rolling event, will be a good chance to show how much you can beat him by over a 40 mile distance.0 -
yawn
wasn't this thread about cables?0 -
If you are a weenie the Nokons will save you a few grams over conventional cables...
Depending on your taste they look pretty cool, like the terminator's tendons or something. The red anodised ones look particularly nice with black campagnolo skeleton brakes on a Ti frame , but don't overdo it by adding other anodised stuff or you'll end up with a bike that looks like it's from 1990...
I use them for my brakes but not for the gears, as I've heard they can sometimes cause problems and I don't want to muck about with the components of the campagnolo 11sp system. The English instructions supplied with them are possibly the worst case of bad translation I have ever come across in a cycling product, which is particularly deadly given how complicated the system is to set up. There are a number of websites around that will help you make sense of them, be prepared to do some research first or you will set them up incorrectly and cut the plastic inners in the wrong place... Set up properly it is a completely closed system - that's probably one of the biggest practical advantages - once you've (eventually) managed to set them up you can just leave them and not worry about them for years. The brakes do feel a little more positive compared to standard cables, but there's not much in it. 0 -
Pokerface wrote:Maybe you should enter the mountain time trial on May 2. Beacon Ruth's event.
As NapD will be there and it's a rolling event, will be a good chance to show how much you can beat him by over a 40 mile distance.
right, yeh, 1 month training from "untrained". I know am unfit at the moment, that's what hardly riding a bike for 6 months does. I guess it makes you feel better about yourself, being able to ride a bike faster than an unfit person. Perhaps you should concentrate on your own riding like I will do mine. I guess this thread has shown some insecurity you lot have.
I guess Will is right that this forum is full of thick w@nkers.0 -
redddraggon wrote:Pokerface wrote:Maybe you should enter the mountain time trial on May 2. Beacon Ruth's event.
As NapD will be there and it's a rolling event, will be a good chance to show how much you can beat him by over a 40 mile distance.
right, yeh, 1 month training from "untrained". I know am unfit at the moment, that's what hardly riding a bike for 6 months does. I guess it makes you feel better about yourself, being able to ride a bike faster than an unfit person. Perhaps you should concentrate on your own riding like I will do mine. I guess this thread has shown some insecurity you lot have.
I guess Will is right that this forum is full of thick w@nkers.
You never said you were unfit. Just that you were ill and had mechanical problems. A month should be more than enough time to sort those things out. :roll:0 -
They're a bit of a fiddle to fit, but once they're they're good for years - had them on my race bike for 5 years and haven't had reason to touch them - they work well if you have a short headtube and stem as they are a lot more flexible - they also don't scuff your paint because the outer segments can twist. I'm less positive about i-links, they split easily and don't like any sort of abuse - fitted them to my cross bike and the inevitable crashes have meant I've had to replace a few section - the liner isn't as tough as the Nokon one either.Make mine an Italian, with Campagnolo on the side..0
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balthazar wrote:
Go on, try..! I'm curious nowdennisn wrote:I use it for the housing of my rear mech cable at the rear wheel due to a hard to explain issue
O.K. I'll try. On the right chainstay, near the rear dropout, is a part that I'm not sure has a name. Cable guide possibly. Anyway it's that thingy that the shifter cable goes into after running along the length of the chainstay. After it come out of this cable guide it goes into
some housing and on to the rear mech. On my Gios Compact Pro this cable guide is so close to the rear axle that standard housing takes a somewhat strange bend to get around and over the quick release nut. So I bought a Nokon extender kit, no cables, just
40 or so links and the interior housing. This allowed me to sort of build my own housing back there, which takes a much smoother route over the quick release nut. Now, aren't you sorry you asked? I would post a picture if I was even remotely internet savy.0 -
redddraggon wrote:NapoleonD wrote:At least we can all ride up hills.
I'm sure that once I am able to actually ride without suffering from illness and mechanical failures I'll be better than you again.
Mechanical failures?
Perhaps you should stick to Sram/Shimano then
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I have the gore cables both part sealed and fully sealed. Never noticed a difference over standard Dura Ace tbh.
I am considering Alligator i-links for my TT bike as a friend uses them and rates them whereas another friend has tried nokons and didn't get on with them...0
