Wheel trouble
smallfishC
Posts: 17
Hi, new to the forum and seeking some advice. I did have a scan through to see if this had been covered before but couldn't find anything so forgive me if there is already a post about this.
I recently got a turbo trainer to train with on late nights when I hadn't got the time to hit the roads. After ruining a good tyre within a few weeks I thought it would be a good idea to get a cheap spare wheel with a dedicated training wheel - that why I could keep my outdoor tyres fresh.
After setting up the new wheel with the same cassette as my regular wheel I assumed that the Derailleur would not need adjusting - however this is not the case! I have attempted to reset the rear derailleur to keep the chain on the cassette but no matter how much I adjust it, it just seems to be loose on the either the highest or lowest gear and constantly slipping and grinding. After messing around for ages I then just went back to my regular tyre and re-tuned the Derailleur for outdoor use.
Has anyone else experienced this problem - what is the solution? Should I give up or is there a quick way to swap between wheels without having to adjust the Derailleur every time ?
Cheers :?
I recently got a turbo trainer to train with on late nights when I hadn't got the time to hit the roads. After ruining a good tyre within a few weeks I thought it would be a good idea to get a cheap spare wheel with a dedicated training wheel - that why I could keep my outdoor tyres fresh.
After setting up the new wheel with the same cassette as my regular wheel I assumed that the Derailleur would not need adjusting - however this is not the case! I have attempted to reset the rear derailleur to keep the chain on the cassette but no matter how much I adjust it, it just seems to be loose on the either the highest or lowest gear and constantly slipping and grinding. After messing around for ages I then just went back to my regular tyre and re-tuned the Derailleur for outdoor use.
Has anyone else experienced this problem - what is the solution? Should I give up or is there a quick way to swap between wheels without having to adjust the Derailleur every time ?
Cheers :?
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Comments
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Does the 'cheap spare wheel' that you acquired have the same make cog as your regular set?
Same number of cogs / same make? If it's an old second-hand wheel, the cassette may be worn causing the slippage.Cycling weakly0 -
Cheers skyd0g, I bought the same cassette as I use on my regular wheel - a Shimano CS 5600 12-25. I had hoped that would mean no adjustment necessary. I does look as though there is a kind of spacer behind the cassette on the "outdoor" wheel though ? This is not on my "turbo" wheel.0
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smallfishC wrote:Cheers skyd0g, I bought the same cassette as I use on my regular wheel - a Shimano CS 5600 12-25. I had hoped that would mean no adjustment necessary. I does look as though there is a kind of spacer behind the cassette on the "outdoor" wheel though ? This is not on my "turbo" wheel.
I think you've answered your own question there.Cycling weakly0 -
A 10speed Shimano cassette is actually narrower than 8sp or 9sp.
Some rather expensive Dura Ace & Ultegra wheels from a few years ago, plus some other manufacturers usually higher-end wheels, had freehubs which would only take this 10sp cassette, a 8sp or 9sp cassette won't fit on them as it's too wide (and also 10sp uses deeper splines, which won't fit in the shallower spline-grooves on a 8sp or 9sp cassette).
These wheels are termed 10speed-only
Most wheels will take 8sp or 9sp or 10sp quite happily - termed Shimano 8/9/10sp wheels.
In order to get the narrower 10sp cassette to fit properly on them, there's a spacer (basically big washer approx 1 - 1.5mm thick) fitted onto the hub before the cassette goes on : when you buy a 10sp cassette this should come with it.
Assuming your 'cheap spare wheel' is actually a cheap wheel rather than DA/Ultegra/expensive other, and hence has a 8/9/10sp hub, you should have this spacer on it with your 105 10sp cassette.
Without the spacer, the cassette lockring can be done up tight, but won't hold the cassette, you'll find it can be wobbled around loosely by hand, hence your gear indexing will be hit and miss as the cassette moves - and it'll rattle.
If you don't have it, your LBS should be able to supply one.
What you're trying to do is perfectly achievable.
I regularly swap between 'best' and 'training' wheels on my bikes and don't have to do any mech adjustments to either top & bottom limit screws or to cable tensioner.0 -
Thanks Guys, It does seem that I need a spacer as when trying to switch to the Lowest Gear the chain wont jump up. The indexing is rubbish too and rattles around loads. I didn't get a spacer for the cassette to the hub when I bought it - just the spacers between cogs. Do you know if these are available online anywhere ?
The wheel is a Shimano R500 Clincher (it states it is compatible with a 10 speed cassette)
The cassette is a Shimano 105 10 speed (12-25) 56000 -
Problem solved !
I popped into my LBS and explained the problem, you guys were right I was missing a spacer between the hub and the cassette - 1mm ! and its made all the difference. no need to adjust when changing wheels now.
cheers0