juicy 3's

hicko37
hicko37 Posts: 80
edited April 2010 in MTB workshop & tech
hi r juicy 3 pads the same as juicy 5/7 i bought them and they said they were but they wont fit in the caliper on there own never mind with the rotor in, any ideas?
2010 stumpy expert
1998 saracen tuff trak (classic)
2008 pinarello fp1

Comments

  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    FFS that is hard to read.

    have you pushed the pistons home with the old pads fitted?

    have you checked that the old pads have the same shape as the new ones?
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • hicko37
    hicko37 Posts: 80
    done both of the them mate, they do seem to have a thicker pad than the orignal ones if that makes sense.
    2010 stumpy expert
    1998 saracen tuff trak (classic)
    2008 pinarello fp1
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    so push the pistons fully home.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • hicko37
    hicko37 Posts: 80
    done that mate still no different could i rub the pads down a bit
    2010 stumpy expert
    1998 saracen tuff trak (classic)
    2008 pinarello fp1
  • stomith
    stomith Posts: 332
    Stick with the "pushing the pads back in". It does take a lot of sustained pressure for them to find their way back into the caliper. don't go trying to reduce their width - that's not the answer..
  • Had exactly the same problem on rear brake with Juicy 3 pad renewal Hicko 37. It took me countless goes to slide them in past the piston central pegs. They rubbed for a couple of rides with next to no free play on the lever till they freed off.

    I too got the impression the pads were thicker, but once run in the worked perfectly.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    if the brakes have been incorrectly bled then there maybe too much fluid in there to allow the pistons to be fully pressed home.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • ilovedirt
    ilovedirt Posts: 5,798
    I had some problems with avid pads recently, i couldn't get the central peg things on the piston to locate on the back of the pad, that was irritating. They tend to be a tight fit when brand new as well, as nicklouse said, there may be too much fluid in your system which is preventing the pistons being pushed fully back.
    Production Privee Shan

    B'Twin Triban 5
  • A further point; I bought a full set of ORGANIC pads (for next time) fron Halfords because they were half the price of the Specialised ones.

    Do others use them, and if so do they last?
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    organic for dry conditions. sintered for wet conditions.

    Organic in wet muddy conditions do not last very well.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • hicko37
    hicko37 Posts: 80
    finally ha ha ha there in, what a pain i see what you mean about no play in the lever too. cheers for the advice guys
    2010 stumpy expert
    1998 saracen tuff trak (classic)
    2008 pinarello fp1
  • peter413
    peter413 Posts: 4,909
    nicklouse wrote:
    organic for dry conditions. sintered for wet conditions.

    Organic in wet muddy conditions do not last very well.

    Not very long :lol:

    I burnt my old organic pads completely up in less then 3 miles of quick technical downhill riding (not full on DH, just Spooky wood and a secret trail at Glentress)

    Admitadly conditions were terible but I can get about 2 or 3 months from sintered pads in the same conditions
  • ilovedirt
    ilovedirt Posts: 5,798
    When do you guys change your pads anyway? When they're worn all the way down or not that far?
    Production Privee Shan

    B'Twin Triban 5
  • peter413
    peter413 Posts: 4,909
    I change mine when my levers travel further than I want them to (just before they are fully worn)
  • diy
    diy Posts: 6,473
    I change mine when they wear down to the point where the spring that separates them would be touching soon.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,666
    diy wrote:
    I change mine when they wear down to the point where the spring that separates them would be touching soon.
    I find with Juicy 3s the spring touches no matter what. Endless problems with these damn things and the spring catching the disc, even on new pads. I'm not alone as when I see someone go past with Juicy's, there's that obvious "pinging" noise as their discs rub on the spring. Rubbish design.
  • Have got Juicy 3 Sl's on my Spesh, 3 pad changes and they are still perfect.

    Cant see why so many have problems......I must have had a decent batch.
    4 wheels bad
    2 wheels good
    1 wheel for fun
  • rudedog
    rudedog Posts: 523
    deadkenny wrote:
    diy wrote:
    I change mine when they wear down to the point where the spring that separates them would be touching soon.
    I find with Juicy 3s the spring touches no matter what. Endless problems with these damn things and the spring catching the disc, even on new pads. I'm not alone as when I see someone go past with Juicy's, there's that obvious "pinging" noise as their discs rub on the spring. Rubbish design.

    wondered what that noise was lol :wink:
  • stomith
    stomith Posts: 332
    Oooooh.....so it wasn't a peg and a piece of cardboard?
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,666
    I have them too, and stickers which makes me go faster :D
  • diy
    diy Posts: 6,473
    deadkenny wrote:
    diy wrote:
    I change mine when they wear down to the point where the spring that separates them would be touching soon.
    I find with Juicy 3s the spring touches no matter what. Endless problems with these damn things and the spring catching the disc, even on new pads. I'm not alone as when I see someone go past with Juicy's, there's that obvious "pinging" noise as their discs rub on the spring. Rubbish design.

    When fitting the pads make sure the springs are properly pushed round the outside of the pad. if there is too much stress on the spring, work a little of the pad off with a screw driver until it is a good fit. Superstars can be a bit wide like this - particularly the kevlar ones.
  • Anonymous
    Anonymous Posts: 79,666
    diy wrote:
    When fitting the pads make sure the springs are properly pushed round the outside of the pad. if there is too much stress on the spring, work a little of the pad off with a screw driver until it is a good fit. Superstars can be a bit wide like this - particularly the kevlar ones.
    Yeah, tried all that. Thing is the spring doesn't seem to stay firmly in place and a bump can make one of the ends just poke out slightly and catch. But I don't think it's just the edges that catch. I think the back end catches the top of the disc somehow. Maybe I've just got big discs! :D

    I also find if I remove the front wheel, as I always have to when putting the bike in the car, refitting results in it rubbing again. It just seems to shift easily, and if it's a muddy ride I have to take the whole sandwich out, clean and refit attempting to get the spring back in place properly.

    Much better idea is to do away with a spring and use magnets to keep the pads in place. Cheap Apollos from Halfords do that and they work great!