Bike build

adukeofkent
Posts: 82
After long deliberation (about 6 Months) I decided to by a BMC Race Master frame.....I know its not great valure and they are a bit errrrm boutiquey or just good looking.
Anyway I only had the guts and the money to buy the frame this month. Ive got wheels so that leaves groupset (probably ultegra sl or 6700 compact from Merlin) handlebars, stem, cables, and sadle still to buy
My basic question is are there any real pitfalls in building a bike like this. What and how could I f**K up this stuff thats taken me half a year to save for (yes I am poor)
Thanks
Ant
Anyway I only had the guts and the money to buy the frame this month. Ive got wheels so that leaves groupset (probably ultegra sl or 6700 compact from Merlin) handlebars, stem, cables, and sadle still to buy
My basic question is are there any real pitfalls in building a bike like this. What and how could I f**K up this stuff thats taken me half a year to save for (yes I am poor)
Thanks
Ant
0
Comments
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Just be careful if you need to cut the fork steerer tube to the right length, especially if it's carbon.
Once it's cut, that's it, no going back. Using spacers is an alternative to cutting.
And things like carbon bars and stems - just be careful tightening up bolts. No need to overtighten. Go with the manufacturers recommendations for torque (generally on the side in Nm's). Forgive me if this is teaching you to suck eggs !
Other than that, just do it slowly and methodically, and don't rush into things. Best to build it over a few days and get it right than rush doing it in a day for example.
Good luck. You'll end up being rewarded with something that you've built yourself, and will give you that extra bit of pride when your out on it."There are no hills, there is no wind, I feel no pain !"
"A bad day on the bike is always better than a good day in the office !"0 -
as above really.
I always use extra spacers for the forks until I'm 100% confident that I have the stem at the right height before I cut the steerer.
Make sure all carbon components are not over tightened.
I use pipe lagging (foam tubes) from B&Q, Wickes etc and cover the frame tubes with this where possible to reduce the chances of scratching or chipping the paint. obviously you need to allow for cables etc but should still be able to cover most of the frame for protection.
Having once dropped an allen key onto a new frame I always opt for extra frame protection just in case :?
Enjoy your build!0 -
Ive got one and its wicked.
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/4305232/
http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/4733253/
I built it from scratch like you too. no real need to worry about steerer as it should be ali, but it mightnt hurt to get a shop to slap on the crown race and cut it to size- everything else is pretty easy to sort.
be careful with the headset as bearing surfaces are carbon.
People will tell you not to use grease on carbon surfaces as it delaminates it but appraently velo news and Lennard Zinn say otherwise
the only other thing I can think of is make sure you put on lots of protective tape to prevent wear and tear from cables etc no point having a nice shiny frame and screwing up over something so small.- especially true of larger chainstays and potential heel scuffs.0 -
Thanks for your advice guys.
A few questions
Whats a crown race?
Do I need a torque wrench?
I have never played with BBs before.
GODIHATEHILLS - That bike looks fly. Some inspiration there. Cant afford those wheels tho - just my Easton sl50's.0 -
godihatehills wrote:I
People will tell you not to use grease on carbon surfaces as it delaminates it but appraently velo news and Lennard Zinn say otherwise
fs.
I would stick to whatever the manufacturer says, they are the ones that honour warranties.
£1.25 for sign up http://www.quidco.com/user/491172/42301
Cashback on wiggle,CRC,evans follow the link
http://www.topcashback.co.uk/ref/MTBkarl0 -
definetely buy a torque wrench..after spending that much on such a nice bike can u imagine how you'd feel if you cracked it overtightening the seatpost or something!!! well worth the £50 and the fact u won't have to buy a new frame0
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If you have an exsiting bike and your comfortable with the set up take mesurements eg. hight of h/bars from floor...... center of saddle to center of h/bars...hight of saddle from center of b/bracket
Just a guide for getting your stem length and hight right
Also make sure that you cut the steerer about 2mm less than the stem or top spacer above the stem this will allow the top fixing cap to compress the crown race securely together
Crown race are the consealed headset bearings...
B/Bracket...the new b/b are simple to fit weather it be Shimano/Campag the outer bearing cups are handed and are marked as sutch as there opposit treads
If you are new to building your own bike...the best tips I can give you are read all instructions thorughly and understand each part make sure you have appropriate tools for the B/Bracket cups...Cable Cutters..Allen Keys
Most youtube vidios on fixing componants are always handy to watch0 -
One of these would be handy for tightening carbon components:
http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... delID=39470 -
The crown race is the bearing set that slides down the steerer tube first, so that it sits where the steerer tube meets the fork arms. It may be that this is a very tight fit at the very bottom, in which case I would pop it into your LBS to avoid risking fork damage.
While you are in the LBS, I would also suggest taking the frame, asthe bottom bracket shell mat need tapping/facing.0 -
This video came in very handy when I built up my bike
http://vimeo.com/8613681
Also you find this slightly interesting, I am in the process of putting a blog together about amongst other things, my bike build
http://markscyclingblog.blogspot.com/search/label/Bike%20build0 -
Cheers for the feedback guys. That 6700 video is just what the doctor ordered. Wicked.
Took the bike down the LBS today in order to cut the stem length. I just didnt have the confidence to do it myself but at least its done now. Put some spacers in too. I will try to build up some picks of the bike being built.0 -
It might pays dividends to look out for a sale bike with the components you want, which you can strip down and then fit on the BMC. You could easily spent 600 squids on the components you listed, while foir instance you could buy a Lidl Ultegra bike for ~700.
If you happen to get a bargain with a frame that fits you, you could then ponder building up a single speed or fixed gear in the future================
2020 Voodoo Marasa
2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
2016 Voodoo Wazoo0 -
You could easily spent 600 squids on the components you listed, while foir instance you could buy a Lidl Ultegra bike for ~700.
Really?
The last time they were selling this bike it was over a year ago. And to Northern Ireland customers only.Was about £800. Chances of it selling again anywhere near that price=zero.0 -
Merlin are selling the 2010 ultegra for £5500
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Hmm, looks like my memory played tricks on me again about the Lidl bike price, indeed it was 800 when it finally became available.
Having just done a quick scout round the "usual suspects" e-stores, seems like 700 shockingly gives you a Tiagra groupset bike! :shock:
Are you dead set at Ultegra? Would you not be tempted by the 11-speed Campag Athena for 600 at Merlin? Never done Italian, but they appear to be the best bang for the buck these days since the Shimano price hike.================
2020 Voodoo Marasa
2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
2016 Voodoo Wazoo0 -
May have spotted you a killer deal if you went Italian...
Athena/Miche new groupset for 500:-
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Campagnolo-Miche- ... 439d3e0fe5
Or better still, perhaps, get a complete bike with Chorus for 670:-
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DHC-Racing-Vulcan ... 35a7f929c3================
2020 Voodoo Marasa
2017 Cube Attain GTC Pro Disc 2016
2016 Voodoo Wazoo0