Change cassette for better climbing ?

afcbian

I currently run a Campag double ring with a 12-23 casstte which means I have to stand quite a lot when climbing and want to change the ratios for better climbing.
I was looking at either a 13-26 or a 13-28
Anyone have an opinion on which would be best ?
Will the 26 make enough of a difference ? or will 28 be too much
My fitness is pretty good and I regularly ride 40+ miles
Cheers

Smokin Joe

As you are already managing the climbs with a 23 I'd go for the 13-26. You will find a big difference, allowing you to sit and spin rather than honk your way up.

afcbian

Smokin Joe wrote:

As you are already managing the climbs with a 23 I'd go for the 13-26. You will find a big difference, allowing you to sit and spin rather than honk your way up.

Thanks for that. That's what I thought but just wanted some feedback

ajb72

Totally agree with Smokin - the 26 will give you an option to spin your wy up the hills with greater comfort. I reckon a 28 cog would leave some big gaps in the block

darren H

the 13/26 will be ideal
No exactly where your at. You will find it a big difference and will benefit no end

solocp

I did the same and put a 13 - 26 on the back. I'm not sure but the 28 option may be too much for your rear mech. I'm not young or particularly fit at the moment but the 26 takes me up every hill I encounter in Kent including Westerham Hill. Not sure about Devon but I'm about to find out.

moolarb

it depends what hills you're talking about

my lowest gear is 38x26 and I struggle over 20% gradients even out of the saddle

I'm getting a 12-28 fitted next week so it will give me one extra gear which might get me up Mow Cop (25%) if I'm lucky!

bompington

ajb72 wrote:

Totally agree with Smokin - the 26 will give you an option to spin your wy up the hills with greater comfort. I reckon a 28 cog would leave some big gaps in the block

I may just be a bit ignorant, but what is the deal with big gaps between gears? I presume the idea is to be able to keep your cadence as close to constant as possible, but given even a wide ratio block isn't going to force you to change your cadence by more than +/-10% from average, is this really a problem?
My bike originally had an 8 speed 12-23, it's now 11-28, I never felt at any time after changing it that the jumps were too big; nor did I notice any significant difference getting a new bike with a 10 speed 12-25.

Stevie2wheels

I run a 28 (53/39 front) as it get me up some steep stuff around where I live in Scotland. And I need it although I'm pretty fit.................maybe I'm just getting old.

oldwelshman

bompington wrote:

ajb72 wrote:

Totally agree with Smokin - the 26 will give you an option to spin your wy up the hills with greater comfort. I reckon a 28 cog would leave some big gaps in the block

I may just be a bit ignorant, but what is the deal with big gaps between gears? I presume the idea is to be able to keep your cadence as close to constant as possible, but given even a wide ratio block isn't going to force you to change your cadence by more than +/-10% from average, is this really a problem?
My bike originally had an 8 speed 12-23, it's now 11-28, I never felt at any time after changing it that the jumps were too big; nor did I notice any significant difference getting a new bike with a 10 speed 12-25.

The difference is more noticable on higher gears at higher speeds.
In normal riding I don't notice much but in a race often I end up going up and down two between two gears which is why most cassettes do 1 tooth steps if possible.

rickhotrod

bompington wrote:

I may just be a bit ignorant, but what is the deal with big gaps between gears? I presume the idea is to be able to keep your cadence as close to constant as possible, but given even a wide ratio block isn't going to force you to change your cadence by more than +/-10% from average, is this really a problem?

If you go along to a local gym and try out an exercise bike with a computer you will be able to see for yourself that it is much harder to maintain the same power that you can generate at 90rpm at only 80rpm. I agree with another poster that close gear ratios is more important when you are trying to maintain maximum speed. You could also try to keep up with a fast local chain gang. Wide gaps will have you falling off the back!

louismichaels

What are you running at the front? Standard or compact chainset? And if compact, is the smallest chainring 36 or 34?
I had this same conundrum last year, when I went to the Alps with my road bike for the first time. I started by changing my cassette to a 28T. After the first day of climbing, I found I had still struggled, so I changed my smallest chainring from 36 to 34.
Now, to you hardcore roadies out there, this might sound a bit fey, BUT I suffer from achilles tendonitis if I push a big gear, and this set up allows me a 'get out' gear.
I also changed my rear derailleur to a medium cage (I'm using Shimano on this bike).
It all worked fine - there are some bigger gaps between gears, and occasionally I can't seem to find just the right cadence, but it's OK.
I did consider converting to a triple, which would have allowed me to run a closer ratio cassette, but the cost of a new chainset and new levers was not worth it. Plus of course, incurring the sneers of the aforementioned hardcore roadies!!

N0bodyOfTheGoat

I'm no "mean, lean, power machine" these days, despite the name and wishing I still was like in the 90s, but I do love the 16-27 cassette on the Felt for undulating terrain around the east side of Southampton.

The one-tooth steps from 16 to 23 inclusive allows me to fine tune the gearing for whatever uphill gradient. Just a shame I have only rarely dared take her for a spin since the fitting, due to the racey positioning having a tendancy to make my 2008 back muscle injury moan.

Given that I am fitter now than when I bought that 16-27 cassette, I would probably buy something with a stronger high gear now, either 14t or maybe a 13t for more speed on descents.

Perhaps a Campag 13-29 would fit the bill? Failing that, find out what size sprocket suits your level of fitness and then buy/build one of those custom cassette kits found at places like Ribble?