budget commuter bike advice

roundthebend

Folks, I'm new here...hello.

I've been cycle commuting for 3 years now on my old Carrera MTB. Somehow I've managed to keep it going with only new tyres, tubes, cable and pads. Same cogs, chain, wheels, gears etc. since new 13 years ago.

I only ride 3 miles each way. Mostly on cycle paths with the occasional stretch of road.

No hills to worry about and nothing particularly uneven.

I'd like a new bike because the MTB is bound to give up soon. But I probably can't afford more than £150.

I've two options. I could buy new and have the peace of mind of a warranty. But then I might end up with a poor quality bike with a short life expectancy. However, my logic syas that if a 13 year old bike can last then surely one with modern components could last 5 years no sweat.

I just don't know what brands are generally worth a look. I don't know what components are good. My current bike has Shimano components and they've obviously lasted well. But I've seen some new bikes with Shimano components that look really flimsy.

Shove me in the right direction please :?:

nation

Shimano make everything from cheap and nasty to ultra-high-end, it's not necessarily a guarantee of quality. Having said that, for MTB components, anything Deore or better (it goes Deore, SLX, XT, XTR - there is also LX which is a "trekking" groupset and is apparently good) will be good quality and last.

Your other option for MTB components is SRAM, but they tend to be more expensive for an equivalent level of quality.

I don't really know much about road components.

What kind of bike are you after?

W1

Not sure if the budget will stretch, but I think much of the Revolution range from the Edinburgh Bike Co-op is good value and well spec'd.

http://www.edinburghbicycle.com/ebwPNLq ... 333c018336

roundthebend

nation - thanks for the Shimano advice. Very useful. In terms of type of bike.....well, I don't really care tbh. MTB suits me because I can use it for general use cycling with the kids. Road bike would work because my commute isn't over rough terrain. I guess a hybrid/town/CX would be perfect for both my needs.

W1 - those look good, but currently just beyond budget. If my employer to Cycle2Work then it'd make things much easier. But, they won't.

roundthebend

Well, I think my current steed must have heard me talking about it yesterday because I left the office only to find my rear tyre completely deflated. I've cared and nurtured it for 13 years and as soon as I mention retiring it to leisure use only it gets the huff and picks up a puncture (actually, 2 punctures!).

So, it's definitely going now. :twisted:

Trip to the local bike shop at lunch time today to get a new puncture repair kit and a look at some possible replacements.

Cafewanda

You'd best be very careful and say only nice things in the presence of said bike otherwise something else might go wrong

wgwarburton

roundthebend wrote:

Folks, I'm new here...hello.

Hi!

...I'd like a new bike because the MTB is bound to give up soon. But I probably can't afford more than £150. ...

£150 is low for a decent new bike.

I've two options. I could buy new and have the peace of mind of a warranty. But then I might end up with a poor quality bike with a short life expectancy. However, my logic syas that if a 13 year old bike can last then surely one with modern components could last 5 years no sweat. ... Shove me in the right direction please :?:

I think you'd be better served by a decent used bike. Do you have a bike-recycler place nearby? I know of a few in Scotland that would probably suit you down to the ground, maybe there's one near you?
This should get you access to clueful people and used bikes.
From your route description and mileage, you could get on fine with a very simple, reliable bike. If you can find something with a hub gear (an old Sturmey Archer 3-speed would probably do), then think twice before rejecting it.

Cheers,
W.

roger_merriman

roundthebend wrote:

Folks, I'm new here...hello.

I've been cycle commuting for 3 years now on my old Carrera MTB. Somehow I've managed to keep it going with only new tyres, tubes, cable and pads. Same cogs, chain, wheels, gears etc. since new 13 years ago.

I only ride 3 miles each way. Mostly on cycle paths with the occasional stretch of road.

No hills to worry about and nothing particularly uneven.

I'd like a new bike because the MTB is bound to give up soon. But I probably can't afford more than £150.

I've two options. I could buy new and have the peace of mind of a warranty. But then I might end up with a poor quality bike with a short life expectancy. However, my logic syas that if a 13 year old bike can last then surely one with modern components could last 5 years no sweat.

I just don't know what brands are generally worth a look. I don't know what components are good. My current bike has Shimano components and they've obviously lasted well. But I've seen some new bikes with Shimano components that look really flimsy.

Shove me in the right direction please :?:

I'd keep the old MTB and maybe treat it to some TLC, a new bike is likely to be fairly poor at that price point.

things that spring to mind are tires something more roadie and maybe puncture proof like say Marathon plus tires maybe some mudguards? and lights?

though old the bike should be fine seven speed gearing tends to be hard as nails, and nothing else is likely to be that pricey.

seataltea

This is great for commuting, nice spec, fairly light, cheap and cheerful.

http://tinyurl.com/yaatzwv

Even the chap at the LBS scratched his head and wondered how they could do it for the price.

The only drawback is the low gearing for my Yorkshire hills, one of which is cobbled, I've fitted bar ends which help a great deal and am pondering a Shimano Megarange experiment.

On the flat however the low gearing makes it fly.

roundthebend

roger merriman wrote:

I'd keep the old MTB and maybe treat it to some TLC, a new bike is likely to be fairly poor at that price point.

things that spring to mind are tires something more roadie and maybe puncture proof like say Marathon plus tires maybe some mudguards? and lights?

That's the thing, I've put some puncture resistant tyres on and it's definitely been helpful. I think I've had only 4 punctures in 18 months of everyday use.

Mudguards - I have some cheap ones on which give my clothes some protection. Would better guards do anything to protect the components of the bike from the elements? It's mainly the chain, crank and gear cogs (cassette?) that are suffering. I try and give it a good clean once a month and spray the chain with GT85 or WD40. I know I'll get in trouble for that as I should use a proper chain lubricant but this has been my approach for the last few years and it's worked thus far.

roger merriman wrote:

though old the bike should be fine seven speed gearing tends to be hard as nails, and nothing else is likely to be that pricey.

Not sure I understand that. Are you suggesting I replace the gears (shifters, derailleurs, cassette, chain) and that'll be the only expensive bit? You're probably right but I was led to believe that it was hard to obtain 7 speed parts so I might need to go up to 8 or 9?

lost_in_thought

Hey OP! Welcome!

I think for £150 you might do well to scour ebay and the like, maybe contact the local plod and see if they have local auctions, there might be a cheap bike up for sale in one of those.

I don't know that you're going to get a great new bike for that sort of cash. If you can keep the old girl going for long enough to get your budget to £200 you'll find a lot more quality.

roundthebend

seataltea wrote:

This is great for commuting, nice spec, fairly light, cheap and cheerful.

http://tinyurl.com/yaatzwv

Even the chap at the LBS scratched his head and wondered how they could do it for the price.

The only drawback is the low gearing for my Yorkshire hills, one of which is cobbled, I've fitted bar ends which help a great deal and am pondering a Shimano Megarange experiment.

On the flat however the low gearing makes it fly.

That looks lovely!
I guess I need to check out the components. My biggest fear is that something on it breaks after a year of use and then I'm no further forward.

iPete

I would either, press my work for the Ride2Work scheme and spend a little more or start trawling the second hand section on here.

If there isn't anything wrong with the frame, gearing etc, I'd be half temped to either get a second hander or change a few parts to the bike. Carbon front forks & some new puncture proof slicks for example..

seataltea

This bike is nigh on identical, the colour is different, the bars are dropped not flat and so of course it does not have the trigger shifters of the hybrid but same drivetrain plus the hybrid has a jolly comfortable all day saddle.

The hybrid also has the mudguards and rack, I would suggest it is greater than the sum of its parts for £180 new with a 1yr all parts warranty and a lifetime frame warranty.

Hence the head scratching and muttering from the LBS.

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/ ... d-09-34648

I think that a distinction needs to be drawn between the desire to get to work and back, cheaply, safely, reliably and the desire to own fancier and more expensive bikes which do just the same job whilst also having perceived 'cred' and the added ability to race other commuters.

roger_merriman

roundthebend wrote:

roger merriman wrote:

I'd keep the old MTB and maybe treat it to some TLC, a new bike is likely to be fairly poor at that price point.

things that spring to mind are tires something more roadie and maybe puncture proof like say Marathon plus tires maybe some mudguards? and lights?

That's the thing, I've put some puncture resistant tyres on and it's definitely been helpful. I think I've had only 4 punctures in 18 months of everyday use.

Mudguards - I have some cheap ones on which give my clothes some protection. Would better guards do anything to protect the components of the bike from the elements? It's mainly the chain, crank and gear cogs (cassette?) that are suffering. I try and give it a good clean once a month and spray the chain with GT85 or WD40. I know I'll get in trouble for that as I should use a proper chain lubricant but this has been my approach for the last few years and it's worked thus far.

roger merriman wrote:

though old the bike should be fine seven speed gearing tends to be hard as nails, and nothing else is likely to be that pricey.

Not sure I understand that. Are you suggesting I replace the gears (shifters, derailleurs, cassette, chain) and that'll be the only expensive bit? You're probably right but I was led to believe that it was hard to obtain 7 speed parts so I might need to go up to 8 or 9?

plenty of bikes made with 7 speed still, the chainring is likely to be fine, you might find you need a new chain and cassette at the back but not going to break the bank.

Aguila

Either second hand or a facelift for the current one.

I've just resurected an old mountain bike for carting the kids around/trips to the allotment. the frame was fine so I replaced:

chain
casette
front and rear mechs
brakes
shifters/brake levers
all cables
mudguards
front tyre

and serviced the hubs.

Came to £120 all in, bike rides very nicely now. Would obviouslty be more if had to pay a bike shop to do it, you'd be surprised how easy it is to do stuff like this yourself (I'm certainly not very experienced) so maybe get a maintainance book/basic tools and have a go yourself?

This bike was 7 speed BTW, the parts were very easy to source. (all off chain reaction cycles)

the_hundredth_idiot

Aguila wrote:

Either second hand or a facelift for the current one.

I've just resurected an old mountain bike for carting the kids around/trips to the allotment. the frame was fine so I replaced:

chain
casette
front and rear mechs
brakes
shifters/brake levers
all cables
mudguards
front tyre

and serviced the hubs.

Came to £120 all in, bike rides very nicely now. Would obviouslty be more if had to pay a bike shop to do it, you'd be surprised how easy it is to do stuff like this yourself (I'm certainly not very experienced) so maybe get a maintainance book/basic tools and have a go yourself?

This bike was 7 speed BTW, the parts were very easy to source. (all off chain reaction cycles)

Which bits did you go for? I'm resurrecting an old Marin MTB at the moment (been "on hold" over the winter but the nice weather is coming and I plan on spending a few Saturday afternoons in the garden building it back up again). Completely stripped - including cleaning/greasing headset and wheel hubs

I've bought new chain, cassette (eBay was a lot cheaper for a 7 speed cassette than anywhere else), bottom bracket, brake pads, grips, cables, saddle - came to about £60 so far. But was tempted to keep the brakes and shifters. How much were your new ones?

The only difficulty I'm having is putting the headset back together - I foolishly didn't keep track of the order of all the bits when I removed the forks.

vorsprung

roundthebend wrote:

Folks, I'm new here...hello.

I've been cycle commuting for 3 years now on my old Carrera MTB. Somehow I've managed to keep it going with only new tyres, tubes, cable and pads. Same cogs, chain, wheels, gears etc. since new 13 years ago.

I only ride 3 miles each way. Mostly on cycle paths with the occasional stretch of road.

Your own figures suggest that the bike is doing 1500 miles a year
(50 weeks, 5 days a week, 6 miles total )
So over the last 13 year it has done something like 20,000 miles on the same chain and sprockets :shock:

I get 5000 miles out of chains and think I am doing ok
My expensive bike's campag chain did about 8,000 miles but then broke in half

However, my logic syas that if a 13 year old bike can last then surely one with modern components could last 5 years no sweat.

I think your hope that a £150 bike will last 5 years or 4500 miles without breaking anything is somewhat optimistic

Aguila

The Hundredth Idiot wrote:

Which bits did you go for? I'm resurrecting an old Marin MTB at the moment (been "on hold" over the winter but the nice weather is coming and I plan on spending a few Saturday afternoons in the garden building it back up again). Completely stripped - including cleaning/greasing headset and wheel hubs

I've bought new chain, cassette (eBay was a lot cheaper for a 7 speed cassette than anywhere else), bottom bracket, brake pads, grips, cables, saddle - came to about £60 so far. But was tempted to keep the brakes and shifters. How much were your new ones?

The only difficulty I'm having is putting the headset back together - I foolishly didn't keep track of the order of all the bits when I removed the forks.

These were the shifters (which include cables, both inners and outers, not mentioned in the desciption):

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=38723

work nicely and seem decent quality.

Brakes:

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=38378

which again seem good for the price.

Headsets are the one bit I still wont touch, not justified the cost of heaset press/crown race remover etc.

Have you tried looking online for video tutorials re repair, bicycle tutor is a good site and might show you how to put it back together. Otherwise I can recommend the Zinn maintainance/repair books.

roundthebend

Aguila wrote:

Either second hand or a facelift for the current one.

I've just resurected an old mountain bike for carting the kids around/trips to the allotment. the frame was fine so I replaced:

chain
casette
front and rear mechs
brakes
shifters/brake levers
all cables
mudguards
front tyre

and serviced the hubs.

Came to £120 all in, bike rides very nicely now. Would obviouslty be more if had to pay a bike shop to do it, you'd be surprised how easy it is to do stuff like this yourself (I'm certainly not very experienced) so maybe get a maintainance book/basic tools and have a go yourself?

This bike was 7 speed BTW, the parts were very easy to source. (all off chain reaction cycles)

This may well be the option I go for. I'm pretty good at the DIY side of things. I've already replaced the brake system apart from the levers.

It was actually CRC that advised me to go for 8 or 9 speed replacements because 7 speed weren't so readily available. It might have been something to do with me having combined brake/gear levers, but then the Acera ones you link to look perfect.

Here's my list of component concerns:

1. Wheels are 13 years old - very weathered, worn rims and bearings seem to be going.
2. Headset - seems to shudder when I brake or corner which suggests that something is worn out.
3. Chain - rusty and rattly and will surely go at some point soon.
4. Derailleurs - caked with goo and gunk, the front one is pretty well ceased up.
5. Gear changers (above and below type) - LH one has a fault like some of the teeth inside are missing. Feels really loose most of the time until it suddenly bites and let's me force the gear change.
6. brakes - i changed them to v brakes but I'm told the levers aren't really suitable. they work ok but the front cable occasionally pops out and leaves me with no front brake!
7. pedals/crank - again, doesn't run smooth and feels like the bearings are at the end of their life.
8. Seat - got a rip in it which allows water in, and then I get a damp backside.

So, that leaves me with the frame and handle bars.

roundthebend

vorsprung wrote:

Your own figures suggest that the bike is doing 1500 miles a year
(50 weeks, 5 days a week, 6 miles total )
So over the last 13 year it has done something like 20,000 miles on the same chain and sprockets :shock:

Almost....I've had the bike for 13 years but only used it for commuting over the last 3 years. So that would be about 5000 miles I guess. Probably just above average, and I suppose you guys change them before trouble starts whereas I am pushing it beyond its limits.

the_hundredth_idiot

Aguila wrote:

Top tips

Good finds - I've bookmarked them for later. The current combined brakes/shifters seem to work but my old copy of Zinn for MTBs says they are the original
(Rapidfire?) Shimano shifters and are a bit cack and not worth repairing. They I'm umming and aahing whether to dump them but I'll probably leave for now as it is supposed to be a budget rebuild. The new Cantis look like a good buy given I paid about £4 per pair of brake blocks.

I've left the headset in place (i.e. the bearing races on the headtube) but just took the forks out to clean it all up and regrease. As you, I don't have the tools to remove the old headset and install a new one and the tools seem quite pricey. When putting it all back together, there is what looks like some sort of washer left over. It's not the notched washer which goes beneath the locknut and I don't think it's just a spacer washer. I need to have another go at it to figure it out.

And so I don't completely hijack the OP's thread, I did get some "advice" from a bike mechanic once that the correct time to change a chain was when the old one broke! :shock:

roundthebend

Oi, hijackers! Nah, it's all interesting stuff.

I nipped to my LBS at lunch to get a new puncture repair "outfit" (why do they call it that?). They had a couple of bike options that might suit but above budget. What I was impressed with was the service - the chap recommended a Diamond Back MTB with alloy frame and said that for the marked price he'd also change the tyres to semis of my choice, fit full mud guards and a panier rack. Tempting indeed, but the bike was bright orange!

Another option suggested was a Raleigh Oakland which comes fully kitted but has a steel frame. And again it was over budget. And it had twist shift gears which I don't like.

And I priced up some components but it's a nightmare when you don't know what is compatible with what. I reckoned on about £130 for it all but I guess I might need some tools too.

daniel_b

I bagged my Carrera Subway one, with a fitted rack, for a paltry £80 - it was 2 years old, but had never been used, had sat in the chaps garage all that time.

That was off the Friday ads website.

I expect you would get a good Subway 1 or 2 for your budget second hand, or maybe even new if you get lucky with one of their sales.

Mine is a similar commute to yours, and the only issue with mine has been the rear brake had a bit snap off - that was a year ago, and I bought a replacement but have not yet gotten around to fitting it :oops:
I stuck a full set of SKS MTB guards on too, around £20 worth.

Mine has twist grips, not used them before myself, but for the commute they are excellent, especially in winter when you can still wear big gloves and change gear with ease.

Cheers

Dan

jw4g

roundthebend wrote:

seataltea wrote:

This is great for commuting, nice spec, fairly light, cheap and cheerful.

http://tinyurl.com/yaatzwv

Even the chap at the LBS scratched his head and wondered how they could do it for the price.

The only drawback is the low gearing for my Yorkshire hills, one of which is cobbled, I've fitted bar ends which help a great deal and am pondering a Shimano Megarange experiment.

On the flat however the low gearing makes it fly.

That looks lovely!
I guess I need to check out the components. My biggest fear is that something on it breaks after a year of use and then I'm no further forward.

Carrera frames are not bad. £150 won't buy you a better bike I would guess as at that price you'll get a heavy bike with low-rent components. You don't need more than a 7 speed cassette and getting 7-speed kit is not a problem. I'd replace the chain and keep it going.

Stuff that will wear out:
1. Chain. Likely already at the end of its useful life - you should probably replace that. You can easily check how 'stretched' it is - http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chains.html
2. Cassette and chainrings - if your chain is stretched then these may wear. Not expensive to replace if you do the work yourself.
3. Rims - this is where it gets pricey as you'll need new wheels if the rims are worn.
4. Bearings (wheel hubs and bottom bracket). If your BB's gone you'll know about it. Not expensive to replace if you DIY. Hubs = new wheels - see above.[/url]

Paddy O Dawes

If you're basically looking for something to commute on the roads and you're ''pretty good at the DIY side of things', I'd definitely look to buy a good road bike second hand rather than try to revive a knackered MTB. £100 could buy you a very nice 531 framed racer that would show your old MTB up for the donkey it is - and be cheap and easy to maintain toboot.

holybinch

Last July, bought a Spesh Allez for 200£, in perfect condition (less than 500 miles)
(then spent a fortune doing it up)

You know you want a roadie

roundthebend

If I buy new complete wheels, do they normally come with BBs etc? I'm baffled by all the lingo:

"Cassette"
"crank"
"chainrings"
"bottom bracket"
"531 framed"

roundthebend

btw - my commute only has a small amount of road use. I can't really alter that because the only real road option is a mega busy dual carriageway which is far from cyclist friendly.

jw4g

Cassette = stack of sprockets on the rear wheel
Crank = what the pedal is screwed into, other end connects to the bottom bracket.
Bottom bracket = spindle passing through the frame connecting the two cranks together. Comes with bearings in a cylindrical unit.
Chainrings = 2 or 3 sprockets at the front of the bike, attached to the RH crank.

(Reynolds) 531 = a (decent-quality) type of steel

jw4g

New wheels will come with hubs. The front weel will be a straight replacement, the rear you'll need to fit a cassette. You need a special tool but it's not that hard.