I've had enough - tell me about single speed conversion

pastryboy

Replaced chain when it got to 0.75.
New chain skipped a lot on certain gears.
Replaced cassette.
Got 100 yards on first commute back, heard a clunk - freehub was spinning independently of the wheel (second time its happened on this bike).

I've also got a skipping chain on my other bike which has just had a freehub replaced under warranty. :roll:

I'm getting a bit sick of having to spend so much time and money on repairs. I don't think geared systems are up to the job of my commute (28-ish miles per day much of which is on dusty/muddy canal path).

I've seen these single speed conversion kits which looks like it should save me a headache at least till my C2W comes up in a few months and I can get a proper single speed.

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=10009

Just to check - I replace the rear derailleur with the tensioner, and just use the middle chain ring (ditching the front derailleur too) and that's it? What about size of chain - is it just any standard 1/8" I see they come in different pin lengths?

The new sprocket goes with spacers on the existing freehub cassette - would it be better just to get a new single speed rear wheel instead bearing in mind the problems I've had with cassette freehubs or are they all the same?

whyamihere

That kit just slides straight onto your existing hub, and the tensioner replaces your rear mech. It's actually a really good kit. I have one, and the tensioner's brilliant. Using your middle chainring would give you probably a 39/16 ratio, which might be a bit weak and girly, but if you like riding SS, then you can change this. They chain can be a standard chain for gears (if you get an 8 speed the side plates are a bit thicker and they'll last a bit longer) or a single speed specific chain, 3/32 or 1/8, doesn't matter really.

I wouldn't bother with a singlespeed rear wheel. They're a bit stronger due to the lack of dishing, but unless you're killing wheels, save your money. As long as you're using a decent quality freehub/freewheel, they're all much the same.

pastryboy

Do I have to use the middle chain ring so it lines up properly or can I choose to use the largest?

whyamihere

You can use the largest. You can either swap it into the middle position, or there's enough flexibility with the spacers to have the chain running straight with it in the outer position.

Aidy

What hubs are they? (I'm betting they're Shimanos).

If you're regularly killing freehubs, it's worthwhile getting wheels with better hubs.
Presumably, if you're looking at dedicated singlespeed wheels, you aren't completely opposed to upgrading here.

pastryboy

One was a Deore hub on an MTB and one was a Joytech hub on my CX - I don't know if freehubs are made by the hub maker or if they're all shimano stuck on hubs?

The one that died this morning, when I got home, seemed to work perfectly again - I don't know if there's anything that I could be doing to cause problems with them other than riding in the cold.

nicklouse

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/article/w ... life-18464

and more info in the MTB FAQs section.

Mikelyons

pastryboy wrote:

Do I have to use the middle chain ring so it lines up properly or can I choose to use the largest?

You can use any ring you like - but you would normally mount it as the only ring using the
middle mounting points.

Most conversion kits come with shorter bolts to allow for the fact that you'll only be mounting one ring.

I converted my old hack bike with a kit from http://www.charliethebikemonger.com/ and what struck me at first was how smooth it was to ride afterwards.

I originally went for a 38:16 ratio using my original middle ring - but have since bought a bigger chain ring as I felt I was spinning out on fast level sections.

Mike

marchant

I found Sheldon Brown useful, Charlie the Bike Monger too (check out his vids on Youtube ) and for probably the best "series" take a look at Shiftless Bastards on Youtube

wgwarburton

whyamihere wrote:

That kit just slides straight onto your existing hub, and the tensioner replaces your rear mech. It's actually a really good kit. I have one, and the tensioner's brilliant. Using your middle chainring would give you probably a 39/16 ratio, which might be a bit weak and girly, but if you like riding SS, then you can change this. They chain can be a standard chain for gears (if you get an 8 speed the side plates are a bit thicker and they'll last a bit longer) or a single speed specific chain, 3/32 or 1/8, doesn't matter really.

I wouldn't bother with a singlespeed rear wheel. They're a bit stronger due to the lack of dishing, but unless you're killing wheels, save your money. As long as you're using a decent quality freehub/freewheel, they're all much the same.

OTOH, given the rate you're eating drivetrains, it might be worth moving to chunkier 1/8" parts, there's more metal in them, so they last longer.

Cheers,
W.

Kiblams

I don't mean to sound stupid here, but if it's the freehub you are breaking; won't you still using the same freehub systems on a SS :? Granted when you wear the chain and sprocket/chainrings it will be cheaper and less time consuming to fix, but surely a Fixed hub is what you need to prevent hub replacements?

pastryboy

That's why I was asking about whether I should go for a single speed wheel.

I am at a loss as to why I keep getting freehub problems. I did 150 miles a week for most of last year and never had a problem then in the space of a few months had the freehub fail to work on three occasions in the space of a couple of months. The fact that it's happening with different bikes is the bit that concerns me.

I think it's partially related to the cold but I don't know for sure and I don't want something breaking on me miles from home or in the middle of the road.

biondino

Go fixed - then you have no freehub to worry about, and you'll be more of a man (NB this also applies if you are a woman).

rf6

+1 for the charlie the bike monger video. my advice would be spend as little as possible now - I've used the dmr kit on my old zaskar, and it's simple and good to use.

If you're commuting and have suffered from punctures, you may want to consdier a self sealing inner tube, as getting the wheel off a ss conversion is a bit more of a pain. THis will let you change the tube in your own sweet time.

good luck with it, I thoroughly enjoy mine.

Oddjob62

biondino wrote:

Go fixed - then you have no freehub to worry about, and you'll be more of a man

Funny... i lost several pounds of man when i went fixed :P

rubbercolin

++1 on charliethebikemonger stuff . fast mail order too...

simple to use and works really well

I prefer the tensioner with a cog rather than the roller. Prob already said ,but keep the chainline straight

good luck

wgwarburton

pastryboy wrote:

...I am at a loss as to why I keep getting freehub problems. ... had the freehub fail to work on three occasions in the space of a couple of months. The fact that it's happening with different bikes is the bit that concerns me.

I think it's partially related to the cold but I don't know for sure ....

Here's a theory- Could the oil you are using be drying to a thickish consistency inside your freehub? When it's cold the viscosity drops and the pawls stick, leading to problems.
The pawl springs are not very strong, and it doesn't need to be cold enough for anything to freeze- thick, tacky oil/grease would be enough.

If this is what's happening, then the problem will go away when the ratchets are warm and a different oil would be needed in the long term. If you need to remove the old residue, that might be tricky- You might not need to, if the new oil keeps it loose. You might be able to flush it out, though be careful not to leave solvent inside the hub, as it'll stop your new lube working properly. Worst case would be stripping down the hub.

What are you lubing with (the bike...! :-) )

Cheers,
W.

pastryboy

I don't use any oil in the freehub - I understand it's meant to be a sealed unit so I didn't think I could/should do anything with it. Elsewhere I lube the chain and throw GT85 on pretty much everything.

I've heard the theory of the cold causing it which seems fair enough - it happened to my main bike once then sorted itself straight away. It's very random since those two occasions were no colder than other days. It seems odd I've had this happen on two different bikes yet it's not happening to everyone...