Cannondale Synapse 2009 Rival/Force/Dura Ace
Evil Laugh
Posts: 1,412
Here's my Synapse with all recent additions. Swapped the 105 bits for Rival/Force and stuck some Dura Ace clinchers on.
Really not sure about the white hoods, might stick black back on.
Sorry for the awful iphone photos no flash and doesn't seem to be able to focus on more than 1 sq inch at a time. :?
Thought I'd take some snaps before I get the tape etc filthy though.
Not had any gears for 2 weeks or so so I'm gonna have to go try the new Sram now and remind myself exactly how nice those wheels are!
Pics:
Love looking down on that green stripe, looks so much brighter and better in the flesh than these rubbish photos.
Frame: Synapse Carbon
Forks: Synapse Carbon S.A.V.E
Bars: Cannondale C3
Stem: Cannondale C4
Headset: FSA si
Bar Tape: Sram Supercork
Front Brake Lever: Sram Force 2010
Front Caliper: Sram Rival
Rear Brake Lever: Sram Force 2010
Rear Caliper: Sram Rival
Pads: Swissstop Green (High Performance) Brake Pads
Shifters: Sram Force 2010
Cables: Pit Stop PTFE coated
Front Mech: Sram Force 2010
Rear Mech: Sram Force 2010
Seat: Fi'zi:k Pave CX Sport
Seat Post: Cannondale Aero Carbon
Seat Post Clamp: Cannondale
Cranks: FSA Gossamer BB30
Chainring(s): 50/34
Chain: Shimano 105
Cassette: Shimano 105 11-25
Pedals: Look Keo Sprint
Bottom Bracket: FSA BB30
Front Wheel: Shimano WH-7850-C24-CL Dura-Ace
Tube: Michelin Aircomp Ultra-light
Tire: Vittoria Open Pave EVO CG II Road Bike Tyre 320TPI
Back Wheel: Shimano WH-7850-C24-CL Dura-Ace
Tube: Michelin Aircomp Ultra-light
Tire: Vittoria Open Pave EVO CG II Road Bike Tyre 320TPI
Accessories:
Weight: ??? Light.
Other info:
Really not sure about the white hoods, might stick black back on.
Sorry for the awful iphone photos no flash and doesn't seem to be able to focus on more than 1 sq inch at a time. :?
Thought I'd take some snaps before I get the tape etc filthy though.
Not had any gears for 2 weeks or so so I'm gonna have to go try the new Sram now and remind myself exactly how nice those wheels are!
Pics:
Love looking down on that green stripe, looks so much brighter and better in the flesh than these rubbish photos.
Frame: Synapse Carbon
Forks: Synapse Carbon S.A.V.E
Bars: Cannondale C3
Stem: Cannondale C4
Headset: FSA si
Bar Tape: Sram Supercork
Front Brake Lever: Sram Force 2010
Front Caliper: Sram Rival
Rear Brake Lever: Sram Force 2010
Rear Caliper: Sram Rival
Pads: Swissstop Green (High Performance) Brake Pads
Shifters: Sram Force 2010
Cables: Pit Stop PTFE coated
Front Mech: Sram Force 2010
Rear Mech: Sram Force 2010
Seat: Fi'zi:k Pave CX Sport
Seat Post: Cannondale Aero Carbon
Seat Post Clamp: Cannondale
Cranks: FSA Gossamer BB30
Chainring(s): 50/34
Chain: Shimano 105
Cassette: Shimano 105 11-25
Pedals: Look Keo Sprint
Bottom Bracket: FSA BB30
Front Wheel: Shimano WH-7850-C24-CL Dura-Ace
Tube: Michelin Aircomp Ultra-light
Tire: Vittoria Open Pave EVO CG II Road Bike Tyre 320TPI
Back Wheel: Shimano WH-7850-C24-CL Dura-Ace
Tube: Michelin Aircomp Ultra-light
Tire: Vittoria Open Pave EVO CG II Road Bike Tyre 320TPI
Accessories:
Weight: ??? Light.
Other info:
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Comments
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Nice mate.
Loks good with teh white hoods.
Move your speedo sensor to the front of your forks though.Specialized S Works Venge
Argon18 E114
Specialized Langster Single Speed
Scott Spark Expert 29'er
GT Avalanche
http://www.glasgowgreencycleclub.co.uk0 -
Edited:
Instructions show fitting to be correct. :?0 -
Reckon I could get a job doing Baum's photography?
Me neither.0 -
Only reason the sensors are fitted to the front mate is in case it goes into the spokes. If it faces forward the spokes have a chance to knock it out........if it faces backwards it might get caught and pop a spoke.
I had mine fitted like the instructions said before the lads on here told me to change it.Specialized S Works Venge
Argon18 E114
Specialized Langster Single Speed
Scott Spark Expert 29'er
GT Avalanche
http://www.glasgowgreencycleclub.co.uk0 -
AndyD2574 wrote:Only reason the sensors are fitted to the front mate is in case it goes into the spokes. If it faces forward the spokes have a chance to knock it out........if it faces backwards it might get caught and pop a spoke.
I had mine fitted like the instructions said before the lads on here told me to change it.
It's not about popping a spoke, it's more likely to lock your front wheel up, long enough to stick you on your face!Start with a budget, finish with a mortgage!0 -
I always have mine facing backwards, as its more likely to get jammed if its going forward I thought?0
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Squillinossett wrote:I always have mine facing backwards, as its more likely to get jammed if its going forward I thought?
Not correct imho. When the wheels are in forward motion, the spokes will direct a loose sensor away from the spokes/wheel, whereas at the back it will take it into the wheel/spokes and possibly jam behind the forks."There's a shortage of perfect breasts in this world, t'would be a pity to damage yours."0 -
I like the added white paint work-very nice! And you added the matching pedals
(Some sensors don't always fit within the fork-mine fits on the rear.)0 -
Re the sensor, I lost my sensor from the front of the front fork descending and going over a cattlegrid at 55mph on the Dragonride a few years ago. Because it was facing forward it pinged on the spokes and was thrown out, makes me get the cold cakkers when I think of it being on the back of the forks, brrr. :shock:0
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Ok I'll move it then.0
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I'm gonna be selling this bike, I'm keeping the wheels so at present selling wheelless but am also looking out for something worthy to stick on it, ksyriums, eastons or something similar. The rear mech is now SRAM red and the chainset a cannondale si compact and the bartape changed to white microtex.
Pm me if interested. It's a 54cm0