Inbred build questions

Iain C

Right then, this weekend my other half's Rockhopper will be coming apart (she's replaced it with a Trance) and all of the bits will be going on to my shiny new slot-dropout Inbred frame. However, I've got a couple of questions…

Rustproofing-is it worth trying to get a GT85 nozzle into the frame tubes to rustproof it a bit? Also, the gussets are open ended, and I doubt there's much paint under there, is it worth trying to get something in there too to protect against the dreaded tin-worm?

Headset-OnOne were supposed to fit the headset before shipping but did not…am I right saying that with a steel frame, gentle tapping with a block of wood/rubber mallet should see it fitted OK, or even a coachbolt and some big washers?

BB-the chainset and BB on the Rockhopper are a fairly nasty Specialized Strongarm 2 crank and internal BB. Presumably I don't need to face the BB tube on the frame itself? I do want to upgrade to a new SLX with external cups ASAP, so am I right in saying I do need to face the BB if I do this? I guess it's an LBS job, how much should I be paying?

Chaintug-the build will be standard geared 27 speed rather than SS, but as the frame is slot-dropout, I got a chaintug. OnOne's website says it's easier just to run one chaintug on the driveside and align the disc by eye…is this right and are there any tips? Seems a bit odd to me, even getting a zing-free ride with vertical dropouts can be tricky, so I would have thought a non-driveside chaintug would only help matters here?

Stem-I need to order ne at some point, I'm a pretty average size wise, just under 6'. My Fuel EX7 is a 17.5 and I run a 90mm stem, as I understand it the Inbred has quite a long top tube which works better with a shorter stem. Fork will be a 100mm Tora air, any recommendations on stem length (bars are standard Bontrager risers, frame size is 18")

Front mech-I'm pretty sure that the band-on front mech on the Spesh is going to be too big. I see Shimano do spacers to get it to fit thinner frame tubes, however I can't find the exact dimensions of the OnOne frame. Shimano do a 28.6, yet the seatclamp is 29.8. Frame's not with me as I type this, is it flared at the top or something and the 28.6 will do?

Finishing kit-just being a tart here. Green frame, white forks, black wheels/seatpost. Do I go black bars/stem/saddle, or will white Syncros stem, white bars, brown saddle and grips look cool? :-)

Thanks!

bomberesque

Headset. Coachbolt (or length of threaded rod) and big washers > hammer and wood but either can work. If using the coachbolt option, do the cups one at a time (sounds obvious but there you go), the frame keeps the cup straight that way

rustproofing, I don't think GT85 will help you, it'll just evaporate. There is stuff you can get (can't recall the name) but tbh I wouldn't bother. Probably you'll get some rust at the gussets. It builds character.

Internal BB doesn't need frame facing. External will (if you want the BB to last) LBS job and I don't know about cost but if you know them then a cup of tea and a chokky biscuit (doesn't take long, but the tool is pricey)

chaintug I expect on-one's advice is sound. Personally I'd put the wheel in, eye it straight, cinch the QR then tension the tug last

stem; borrow beg and steal some different length stems from your other bikes / mates to find the right length for you. Not only about reach but handling aswell and different folks etc....

dunno about front mech shim, but a scond chokky bikky will probably get your LBS mechanic rooting in his draw of spare shims left over from bike builds

White stuff blows ... unless it's Mrs B's new Blizzard frame then it's great ofc.

warpcow

I think on one's advice about chaintugs only applies if you're running SS. Otherwise just seat the wheel as far forward as possible, thus making the tug useless. You don't need to worry about chain tension cos the mech takes care of that.

Rustproofing - most liquid car waxes work fine (ordinary turtlewax is one I've used in the past). Some people apparently find that linseed oil is good too, but it can attract mold.

BB - on one say NOT to face it even for an external BB. I haven't, but then I'm running old Middleburn square-tapers. It seems to be one of those things that could go either way and cause endless discussion on these forums.

mmacavity

http://www.bikeradar.com/gear/category/ ... aver-10220
JP Weigle Frame Saver

bomberesque

bah. good point about the tug warpcow

and I didn't know on-one advise against facing .... meaning that the frame is already faced / doesn't need it? If it's factory faced that's an unexpected bonus on such a cheap frame.

Johnny Napalm

BB - I've just built a slotted Inbred and did have the bb shell faced (as well as the headtube). Most people I asked about facing a steel frame/corrosion issue recommended it to be done if using an external bb. Some almost laughed at my concern regarding facing a steel frame.

Chaintug - I agree, and wouldn't bother with one if you're running it geared. However, if you do run it SS, then I'd suggest a Surly Tuggnut...much better than the On One I got.

Framesaver - I never even considered this, but I'm now concerned myself. Having just built my Inbred, do people suggest that I do something to protect the inside of the frame? I imagine that it's got to be pretty difficult to effectively coat the inside of the frame?

Iain C

Booger. I thought the chaintug thing sounded a bit odd, the guy at OnOne must have misunderstood me or vice versa...I thought it was supposed to make alignment easier...I knew it was not required to maintain chain tension on a geared bike! Oh well, not required then!

Facing...will just leave as is then until I upgrade to SLX.

Mech...mic'd the frame and there is a flare just under the top tube so the mech spacer available from Wiggle should do it fine.

Bring on the build!

Thanks all!