Gear adjustmnent

dan1502

I've just got back from my first bike ride in about 15 years and apart from hardly being able to move, my new bike needs it's gears adjusting as it's slipping into a different gear occasionally and sometimes shifting two at a time.

Can anyone recommend someone really good in the Manchester area (near Sale) who would sort them out while I wait? Also, I have the feeling I might need to adjust the position on the bike so I'm slightly further back as I could feel a bit of strain around the top of my knee when putting on the power and it felt better if I shifted so I was sat far back on the saddle. The saddle is as far back as it will go. I would like someone in the know to help me make sure it's set up correctly for me.

Thanks

Dan

supersonic

I'm afraid to say if the bike is too small, you may have got the wrong one. Though you can compensate a little with layback seat posts and longer stems.

Gear adjustment guides can be found on Park Tools - step by step guide. Probably justa tweak of cable tension needed.

dan1502

I looked at the difference in the length of the top tube between the two sizes and it's marginal (half an inch I think) and in terms of standover height I wouldn't have wanted it any bigger. I think I need to raise the seat a fraction which might help but if not I'm pretty sure a layback post would be enough to sort it. I tried the plumb line test and it was probably an inch forward of where it should be.

I think I'll raise the seat and see if that helps first. I also tried measuring my arm span against compared to my inside leg and they were almost exactly the same with my span being very slightly lower if anything. It's a 20" frame and I'm 6'3 with a 34" inside leg and everyone says if anything go slighly smaller. I'm pretty sure a 22" would have been a bit big.

I'd just like someone in the know to check it out with me and give me a view I can trust and advise if I need to change the seat post and/or stem.

supersonic

Go on what feels right - the plumbline test and comparing arms to legs is all pretty useless on a mountain bike to be honest! Saddle height however is important - with your heel on the pedal your knee should just about lock. When you move your foot forward you will have the saddle about the right height,

Maybe a longer stem?

dan1502

There's loads more height adjustment left in the stem. To be honest I was quite surprised how tall the frame is which I guess has something to do with the 29" wheels. I did do the test you mention above when setting the saddle height but probably didn't quite raise it enough and I could raise it an inch or so and still just be able to touch the ground with both sets of toes.

Regarding the Park Tools guides, I was really wanting someone to set it so it's just right then I know how it should be for future reference when adjusting things myself in future.

supersonic

Believe it or not, being able to touch the floor is not that important, except if you are a learner or getting used to a new bike.

With gears the cables stretch, so there isn't really a reference point for this.

dan1502

Sorry, I just mean riding it when it's set up just right so that I know what just right feels like to ride.

dan1502

I think I misunerstood earlier when you said longer stem as I was thinking seat stem. Can you adjust the height of the front stem?

I'd still be grateful for a recommendation of a good and trustworthy place to get things checked and for future servicing near Sale/South Machester.

nicklouse

stem goes between the steerer and the bars. the saddle is attached to the seat post which then fits in the frame.

what do you want to do?

Sloper

dan1502 wrote:

I'd still be grateful for a recommendation of a good and trustworthy place to get things checked and for future servicing near Sale/South Machester.

You're not far from Cheadle are you?

Try The Northwest Mountain Bike Centre http://www.nwmtb.com
Every time I've been there, I've been super-impressed with their fast and friendly service.

Went there this morning actually. The threads of my BB shell were damaged, probably by very rough threads on my new BB bearing-cups. The guy spent 20 mins cleaning the threads up while I waited and fitted the new BB. And wouldn't take any payment. Fantastic

dan1502

Sorry I do know what the stem is but got confused between stem and post before. Can you increase the height of the stem?

I'm not far from Cheadle and have a bike rack so can get over there easily enough. Thanks for the recommendation.

dan1502

Sloper wrote:

dan1502 wrote:

I'd still be grateful for a recommendation of a good and trustworthy place to get things checked and for future servicing near Sale/South Machester.

You're not far from Cheadle are you?

Try The Northwest Mountain Bike Centre http://www.nwmtb.com
Every time I've been there, I've been super-impressed with their fast and friendly service.

Went there this morning actually. The threads of my BB shell were damaged, probably by very rough threads on my new BB bearing-cups. The guy spent 20 mins cleaning the threads up while I waited and fitted the new BB. And wouldn't take any payment. Fantastic

I've been there today. I had a general check and they sorted the gear change checked the adjustment of everything and then spent some time checking all was ok size wise and apart from raising the saddle about an inch all seems fine. They aligned the discs properly so they no longer rub at all and adjusted the spokes so the wheels run true. The charge for this will be £20 and though I have no idea what these things cost, for over an hour of work it seems pretty good to me. The only other thing was that the grips were totally loose so I treated it to some lizard skins lock on ones.

There was one problem though. On checking the forks, apparently oil has leaked internally. This is annoying as it's a new bike. It's going to cost me £50 to service the shocks but I guess given I got the bike half price it's not the end of the world and good that I got it checked before riding it much.

supersonic

WHat fork is it?

dan1502

Rockshox Reba SL with 85mm of travel (as it's a 29er) though I belive it's internally adjustable to 100mm which I suppose begs the question whether I should ask them to do this at the same time. However I guess there's a reason why Kona went for 85mm.

supersonic

Is the fork not achieving full travel, or the lockout failing?

dan1502

supersonic wrote:

Is the fork not achieving full travel, or the lockout failing?

From what I could see it was not achieving full travel and it when locked it shouldn't travel at all then it wasn't locking either as I had tried that myself.

The guy who was doing the servicing spotted it and asked the other guy for a second opinion.

supersonic

The fork still travels 20mm when fully locked.

It could be a leak, but you can't see the leak, only feel it from the fork performance. When the do fully leak the fork tends to stop 50mm through the travel wheter lock out is on or off.

dan1502

supersonic wrote:

The fork still travels 20mm when fully locked.

It could be a leak, but you can't see the leak, only feel it from the fork performance. When the do fully leak the fork tends to stop 50mm through the travel wheter lock out is on or off.

That sounds about right. They said something about a circlip that can pop off.