Juicy 5's tricky to set up ?

Zidane

Hi, I have always had trouble getting the Juicy 5's on my hardrock set up right. They always seem to catch on the rotor. I've followed all the guides an instructions on adjusting the caliper bolts while holing the brake on but I just can't seem to get them right.
Last time I had my bike serviced they were great until I took the wheel off to get the bike home in the car and as soon as I put it back on they were catching again.
Anyone have any advice? At the moment I am doing like the instructions say and pumping the brake then holding on whilst I tighten the bolts little by little.

Thanks.

nicklouse

every time you remove the wheel the pads will need to be bedded it again.

if the calipers were set right at the last service then leave them and let the pads bed back in again.

this happens to all brakes and the only way to limit the rub after replacing the wheel is make sure the wheels go back the same place and the Qr the same tension. Or dont take the wheels out

ride_whenever

are both pistons returning properly?

JamesBrckmn

If it's just a matter of aligning them, loosen the caliper bolts slightly,pump the brake lever a few times, then hold the brake lever on, while you re-tighten the bolts.

Zidane

Thanks for the info guys, I will keep trying to get them just right. I think the pistons are returning properly from what my untrained eye can see.
Should I be holding the lever in just to the point of contact or really hold the lever as tight as possible ?

biff55

keep firm pressure on lever and tighten caliper bolts fully at the same time.

ride_whenever

i find zip tying the lever on helps, plenty of pressure.

Zidane

Thanks again, I will have another bash at it tomorrow.

Zidane

Just can't seem to get it right, always catching the rotor even when the caliper bolts are loose.
Not sure if it's something I am doing wrong or if there's a problem with the caliper or pads.

Soul Boy

To be fair, I did away with the squeeze the lever several times and then tighten up the bolts. Never seemed to get it right.

So I just use my eye. Turn bike upside down and in good light and with something white as a background you can see the gap between the pads and rotor. Its a bit of a faff, but as I say the pumping lever and tightening bolts never worked out for me. Mine are spot on. I drop my wheel in and ride.

If you are taking the wheel out for transportation, always make sure you put a shim intween the pads. This will stop the pads moving if you accidentally press the brake lever.

tjwood

Exactly as Soul Boy says. I've never had much luck with the Avid method either.

Make sure your wheel is fully in the dropout before doing this and every time you tighten the QR. Either turn the bike upside down or hold the bike upright on the ground (not in a workstand) and apply pressure to the stem/saddle as you tighten the QR to achieve this.


Once you have the adjustment right, I find the main problem is that if the pistons get dirty (mud, brake dust etc) they stick a bit & don't retract fully so the pads start to rub. To avoid this I make sure I clean the brakes whenever I wash the bike - firstly applying a gentle hose into the caliper while working the brake, then spray some cleaner/degreaser in there while working the brake, leave for a minute or two and hose off. I was slightly aprehensive the first time I tried this but have done it many times since without any problems.

Zidane

Thanks again for the advice, I'll give the eye method a go next time.

Dan_xz

Have you checked to see if the rotor is deformed? Take it off and lay it on a flat surface and it should lay perfectly flat on it. Have you ever had disc brakes (these or others)working fine on the same frame & wheel?