Chain fitting and measuring
The Big Cheese
Posts: 8,651
I am going to be fitting my new chain this week when it arrives.
I counted the links on the brand new XTR chain I sold to make fitting this one easier. Should be OK shouldn't it, as before the old one was new so had no stretch?
Oh, and the rear mech is different (long cage as previous, but X0 instead of XTR) will this make a difference?
I counted the links on the brand new XTR chain I sold to make fitting this one easier. Should be OK shouldn't it, as before the old one was new so had no stretch?
Oh, and the rear mech is different (long cage as previous, but X0 instead of XTR) will this make a difference?
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Comments
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surely the traditional way of measuring the chain is easier than counting the links?
loop it round the big ring at the front and the big ring at the back without putting it through the mech and then make it slacker by 2 rivets (about an inch)Whenever I see an adult on a bicycle, I believe in the future of the human race.
H.G. Wells.0 -
cee wrote:surely the traditional way of measuring the chain is easier than counting the links?
loop it round the big ring at the front and the big ring at the back without putting it through the mech and then make it slacker by 2 rivets (about an inch)
Don't know why I counted the links TBH
Yep, I know the traditional way, think I'll just go with that method - well, it is tried and tested
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what are you replacing a brand new XTR chain with?
actually my tried and tested method is to hold the old and new chains up together and see where to break the chain that way, but ofc that wouldn't work for you as you've got rid of th chain alreadyEverything in moderation ... except beer
Beer in moderation ... is a waste of beer
If riding an XC race bike is like touching the trail,
then riding a rigid singlespeed is like licking it
... or being punched by it, depending on the day0 -
bomberesque wrote:what are you replacing a brand new XTR chain with?
actually my tried and tested method is to hold the old and new chains up together and see where to break the chain that way, but ofc that wouldn't work for you as you've got rid of th chain already
Oh I went for a KMC X10 SL in Gold, as I am a tart and wanted a lighter chain that was gold :oops:0 -
The Big Cheese wrote:bomberesque wrote:what are you replacing a brand new XTR chain with?
actually my tried and tested method is to hold the old and new chains up together and see where to break the chain that way, but ofc that wouldn't work for you as you've got rid of th chain already
Oh I went for a KMC X10 SL in Gold, as I am a tart and wanted a lighter chain that was gold :oops:
Seems you've bought the wrong chain, that'll only work with XX or 10 speed Shimano/campag, XO/XTR requires the X9 version, see it's all in the name.0 -
Chunkers1980 wrote:The Big Cheese wrote:bomberesque wrote:what are you replacing a brand new XTR chain with?
actually my tried and tested method is to hold the old and new chains up together and see where to break the chain that way, but ofc that wouldn't work for you as you've got rid of th chain already
Oh I went for a KMC X10 SL in Gold, as I am a tart and wanted a lighter chain that was gold :oops:
Seems you've bought the wrong chain, that'll only work with XX or 10 speed Shimano/campag, XO/XTR requires the X9 version, see it's all in the name.
Wrong, although it's a 10 speed it will work with 9 speed gearing. A few on here run that very set-up.
Do you seriously think I would have bought a chain of that price if I knew it wouldnt work..... ? 0 -
The Big Cheese wrote:Do you seriously think I would have bought a chain of that price if I knew it wouldnt work..... ?
so we'll see it in the classifieds tmorra ? 0 -
biff55 wrote:The Big Cheese wrote:Do you seriously think I would have bought a chain of that price if I knew it wouldnt work..... ?
so we'll see it in the classifieds tmorra ?
LOL - I did my homeworkon this one0 -
homework sucks
impulse buying with no research is living on the edge 0 -
biff55 wrote:homework sucks
impulse buying with no research is living on the edge
he he:
http://www.kmcchain.com/index.php?ln=en ... iew&id=600
That and the X9sl are the same size 0 -
I will give you that one.
They are the same size. How about the inner rollers, do they still match the teeth ok?
CMIIR but 10 speed equal less width in a spocket meaning the inners on a 10 can be less wide, meaning 9s have thicker sprockets and thinner internals on the 10 might not work with the width on a 10?0 -
Chunkers1980 wrote:I will give you that one.
They are the same size. How about the inner rollers, do they still match the teeth ok?
CMIIR but 10 speed equal less width in a spocket meaning the inners on a 10 can be less wide, meaning 9s have thicker sprockets and thinner internals on the 10 might not work with the width on a 10?
As far as I know it doesn't cause any miss-shifting with the KMC chains, but I can see where you are coming from. I know a few people who are running the set-up with great results. Without any shifting compromise. The X10 is lighter than the X9 hence using it, shall give a report back when it's fitted and tested0 -
I had to do a little minor rear mech cable tension tweak with my X10sl after swapping it from the 9 speed chain, nothing major though. I assume it was because the outside width is slightly thinner.0
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Salsa wrote:I had to do a little minor rear mech cable tension tweak with my X10sl after swapping it from the 9 speed chain, nothing major though. I assume it was because the outside width is slightly thinner.
My XO mech and shifters are new as is the cassette and chain so I should nail it first time, emphasis on *should* 0
