Hope rotors with Juicy Carbon brakes?

Beardface
Beardface Posts: 5,495
edited January 2010 in MTB workshop & tech
Hey,

Kinda says it all in the title, but I'm eventually going to be running a set of Hopes, and was thinking of purchasing the rotors/adapters this month, then front brake followed by rear over the next few months (funds are tight at the moment, and my 'bling/wish list' is ever growing!)

I think I've seen it done elsewhere, but are there any major setbacks of running some Hope floating rotors with Avid Juicy Carbons for a month or 2?
(I have heard that the riveting on the rotors can cause problems.. is this true?)

Sorry if this sounds naiive/stupid, but I'm just unsure, and would rather some of you more knowledgeable folk enlighten me/warn me of any dangers etc.. Thanks!
Bird Aeris

Comments

  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    I think the rivets catch on the removal tabs of the pads. So you need to file/cut them off, which then means you need pliers to change the pads. And if you carry spare pads with you then you need them filed down in case you need to change them while you're out.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    yes it can cause conflicts between the removal tabs and the rivets.

    and you will not see any great benefits using them either.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    Why not do it the other way round? Buy the brakes, then, if you really want them then buy the rotors.
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • Beardface
    Beardface Posts: 5,495
    Because the brakes are more expensive.. :oops:

    Haha, just been running through my outgoings for the month, theres no way I can get the brakes this month (Damn early xmas pay!), hence why I thought get the rotors this month, brakes next month.

    I'll just stick a few quid away this month, and invest in the lot in the next month or 2..

    Cheers for the quick responses guys, much appreciated, I'll stick with smaller bits of bling this month then! :lol:
    Bird Aeris
  • ScottAspect45
    ScottAspect45 Posts: 158
    There's this old fashioned thing, called "saving up", you could do that :P
    Liking my Stiffee doesn't mean you're gay.
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    Oh and you have some juicy carbons on now?

    dont expect great improvement with the Hopes.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Beardface
    Beardface Posts: 5,495
    ScottAspect45 wrote:
    There's this old fashioned thing, called "saving up", you could do that :P

    What's that all about then.. this 'saving' lark?! :lol: I'm terrible, it's that old 'I see it, I want it' situation.. but in all seriousness, because of this:
    nicklouse wrote:
    Oh and you have some juicy carbons on now?
    dont expect great improvement with the Hopes.

    That has kind of confirmed what I was thinking anyway, I might just stick some bigger rotors on and get a bleed kit.. works out much cheaper! (The brakes are lacking in power at the moment, it's got brand new pads, pistons are pushed back etc, but 160mm f&r, and not been bled for a while.. it's something that I'm not very good at doing!)

    That, or Elixirs.. :wink:

    Cheers again for your help guys!
    Bird Aeris
  • nicklouse
    nicklouse Posts: 50,673
    a bleed is only needed is the lever is mushy.

    check alignment and let them bed in.

    if you do go bigger then only do it at the front. 185mm on the front will do most people.
    "Do not follow where the path may lead, Go instead where there is no path, and Leave a Trail."
    Parktools :?:SheldonBrown
  • Beardface
    Beardface Posts: 5,495
    nicklouse wrote:
    a bleed is only needed is the lever is mushy.

    check alignment and let them bed in.

    if you do go bigger then only do it at the front. 185mm on the front will do most people.

    Ok, thanks Nick, the lever doesn't feel too bad, and the pads have been in a week or so (I ride every day), so should be pretty much bedded in by now (they're the A2Z Kevlar Sintered pads, so maybe they take a bit longer?)

    As for the rotor, thats what I was thinking, just upgrading the front.. I'm hunting now :)
    Bird Aeris
  • bails87
    bails87 Posts: 12,998
    Stav83 wrote:

    As for the rotor, thats what I was thinking, just upgrading the front.. I'm hunting now :)

    Me too, if it's any help!

    http://www.bikeradar.com/forum/viewtopi ... 38&start=0
    MTB/CX

    "As I said last time, it won't happen again."
  • Beardface
    Beardface Posts: 5,495
    Cheers Bails, that has helped, and potentially solved my issues.. I run 160mm f&r at the moment, and am 12.5-13st (Depending on the day :lol: ), so I'll give a bigger rotor a go, and see how that works!

    Edit: So, although the floating rotor won't work with the Juicys, would there be any issue with this:
    http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Mode ... elID=16448
    (I've always been a fan of the saw style rotors..)

    Thanks again all :)
    Bird Aeris
  • Beardface
    Beardface Posts: 5,495
    Just seen this comment on CRC:

    "1.8mm thick and 122grammes for the 160mm version. Avid rotors are only 1.7mm thick, and are still a tight fit in Juicy calipers with new pads, so no chance of squeezing these fat mommas in there. Because they are thinner, the Avid G2 rotors also only weigh 105grammes for the 160mm. So you can run Avid rotors with Hope calipers, but not the other way round. The Hope Saw discs look good though :-O"

    Cr@p. The search continues...
    Bird Aeris

Categories