Shimano RS30?

freehub

http://www.ribblecycles.co.uk/sp/road-t ... HIMWHFR380

Are they worth it for 122 quid? Anyone has any experience with these? Any better than my current R550 wheels (that I'm thinking of retiring)

Thanks
Will.

karlmoreton

will, if they are anything like RS20,s stay well away. The way the nipples are fitted in the rear rim on the non drive side means spokes are forced to bend on exiting the nipple hence probloems of fatigue/snapped spokes

These are also very expensive and difficult to source (six weeks wait for two spokes). Madison the UK shimano distributor are not the most helpfuln be warned.

They do ride well though, so a bit of a shame,

Now fitting sapim polyax nipple to solve the problem, these have rounded shoulders to allow nipple to protrude at an angle.

Hope that helps
Karl

Anonymous

I was going to order them from Ribble, I had to order over the phone though as I had no PC at the time. The guy on the other end of the phone actually told me not to buy them and go for the Pro Lite Luciano's instead. Stronger, Better materials and better made. Glad I took his advice the Lucianos look great and are doing me very well so far.

freehub

Is that a wear indicator all around the rim? Ain't keen on that messes the brake pads up. I like the Pro-Lite Pair Wheels Treviso Clincher they don't appear to have them on and look better, can't find any info on em tho.

Anonymous

The Treviso wheels arnt even on Pro-Lites Site Look Identical to mine except for maybe the wear indicator. Did not realise it messed up brake pads tbh. Using Kool Stop Salmons atm and they seem fine

DubaiNeil

FWIW I have just upgraded from the R550's to the RS80's - and (unfortunately) I don't find a massive difference.

Weight saving was approx 500g overall.

I do feel less road buzz - particularly on rougher road sections, but this may well be the Michelin Pro Race 3 tyres that I fitted to the new wheels

The R550's were in good condition (hubs regularly serviced, rims still straight etc)

Not too unhappy with the change in wheelsets, but (to me) not night & day difference.

I would only assume even less difference between the R550's and the RS30's than I experienced with the RS80's

Neil

freehub

What's the front hub like inside? Is it like the none drive side of the rear wheel? Just BB and a cone? I'm thinking of servicing these aswell. Took another couple of big bangs on the R550's today, they're more solid since the front has been trued I think.

softlad

freehub wrote:

Is that a wear indicator all around the rim? Ain't keen on that messes the brake pads up.

not sure why that would even be an issue. Either way, replacing a pair of pads is not really a consideration when you are about to shell out over a ton for a set of wheels, is it..?

freehub

Means having to sand the brake pads down all the time, or wear the rim in the wear indicator. It IS an inconvenience.

redddraggon

Why?

You have no logic

EKIMIKE

I've not had any issue with break blocks and rim wear indicators. I know they cause a ridge in the blocks, but the only time i've seen it to an extreme enough extent to be and issue, it was the person riding the bike that was the problem. He would break way too late and overly hard for too long.

Also, you're really not going to notice a difference in wheels until you start hitting the £400 mark. Even then it's not massive. The most you can hope for it that they'll stay true for longer and won't break.

freehub

I think you can notice a good difference in wheels under 400 quid, going from a 120 quid pair to a 400 quid pair if chosen right I'd not be surprised if there was some difference.

EKIMIKE

From £120 to £400 will be a noticeable difference. Fact is there's not alot of wheelsets between £200-300. It's a bit of a leap of faith to either go for that £400+ wheelset or stick with a reliable set of £100-200 wheels. Or if you play your cards right you can get a discounted set of £400-500 wheels for a very good price.

The best way I can thing of illustrating this is simply by looking at the Fulcum range. 5's and 7's are very much solid but heavy wheels. Both between £100-200. The next model are the 3's at about £400. That's the leap i'm on about. The reason they wouldn't make something which I suppose would be called 4's is because there's simply no place for them and therefore a real lack of demand. The 7's 5's and 3's are all strong wheels, the 3's are much lighter so who wants to produce a strong, not light but not heavy wheel? Obviously its not quite that simple.

Either way if you find a wheelset in that £200-300 void then I can bet you'd find no significant difference between what you've already got. If you go for the RS30's, you'll just have a strong heavy wheel like you did before meaning you'll find very little difference in how they ride. Just try and get the strongest/least liekly to fall apart wheelset within your budget and not worry if they're any different/an 'upgrade' from the R550's

EKIMIKE

I don't think I've explained that very well at all. Anyway looking at what you said above re Pro Lite Luciano's vs. Treviso's, other than the rim wear indicator they're gonna be exactly the same when it comes to crunching the miles.

skylark

This actually looks like quite a decent wheel. Deep section alloy wheels are always going to be heavy. The rims are 500-600g odd at the very least, and even more so for a relatively low spoke count factory wheel.

The trick is findng a suitable application for these wheels.

sandbag

The RS30's are considered heavy. Nearly 2000g. Get lighter in the same price range, such as the Fulcrum 5. Easton's EA50 SL is lighter still, good wheel.

Save up for a pair of Shimano Dura Ace 7850 CL, then you will really notice the difference!

Great wheel test 2008
http://www.rouesartisanales.com/article-15441821.html

sandbag

DubaiNeil wrote:

FWIW I have just upgraded from the R550's to the RS80's - and (unfortunately) I don't find a massive difference.

You did say in a previous post they blew you away on acceleration.

JimmyK

if the rs30`s are anything like the rs20`s, i wouldnt take them if they were giving them away. slightest bump on the road and its broken spoke, 2 weeks wait to get a replacement and £18 for the repair.

Evil Laugh

sandbag wrote:

Great wheel test 2008
http://www.rouesartisanales.com/article-15441821.html

Any link for the last 2 rounds of tests?

sandbag

Sorry, it is as it is. It must take a long time to do all those wheels. I wouldn't hold your breath.

Evil Laugh

No worries just have a campag fanboy for a flatmate and was enjoying pointing out that my rubbish shimano wheels out performed 2 grand campags in all tests.

To be honest I don't really care either way about brand loyalties/competitiveness/insecurity but if I could prove my dura ace hubs outperform his records with test 4 I could wind him up a bit more!

wildmoustache

Regarding the Roue test ... please note these are the 28mm (front) tubular shimano wheels NOT the 24mm front clincher shimano wheels (C24, RS80). They are very different wheels. I own a pair of the C24s and have ridden the tub version.

Aside from one being tub and one clincher, differences include:

Stiffness (there is data available) ... the tubs are far stiffer. The CL24 rear is in fact not a very stiff wheel and is slightly less stiff than the Campagnolo Shamal Ultra, which is also not very stiff. If you want stiff clinchers then look at the Eurus.

Aerodynamics - the tubs perform very well for a shallow-ish wheel. I've never seen data on the clinchers. But shallower boxier rim will almost certainly be significantly less aerodynamic. The CL24 rim is actually more like the ksyrium rim. Against that, they still have 16F narrow spokes, which is good.

Weight - tubs are about 150g lighter

The clinchers are still nice wheels but not in the same league. Not even close.